specie

I'd drive it to a tire shop, but the head is off the car. It has a 5-sp tranny if there is anyway I could use that. The problem is I only have an electric impact gun and it's not strong enough. I don't have the crank pulley tool either. I was thinking maybe taking out the starter and jam a screwdriver on the flywheel and then use a breaker bar, but I'm not too sure if the tranny housing could stand the stress. This is a f22b btw. Thanks for all inputs.

1_bad_EF

vise grip style chain wrench from HOME DEPOT works good. Use a big pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar. also use SEARCH this has been cover before.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

I used the screwdriver method before I bought the tool. You'll probably need someone to hold it in place for you while you break the bolt loose. If you can't get enough leverage with the breaker bar alone, slide a pipe over it.

fox297

Hey, what's up! I heard of some people using the alen wrench trick. If your pistons are out, try sticking a 2" diameter wooden stick down the cylinder. If not, try stuffing some clothes into one of the cylinder and put the head back on. You'll probably need a really long cheat pipe on the bolt. Later!


Modified by fox297 at 9:07 PM 7/30/2003

torr

jack up your car just enough where both tires are still making good contact with the ground. have just enough clearance to slide one of your legs under the car. put the car into 5th gear, this procedure locks up the crank so it wont turn. put a socket and breaker bar or ratchet on it and then push with your feet wile sitting down facing the driver side headlight

StyleTEG

Helped a friend remove it with just a breaker bar and a screw driver.

I held the screw driver in the flywheel (he removed the dust cover) while he put his weight on the breaker bar.

He had the bar parrellel to the ground so he could gently start to apply pressure and it popped off.

mmuller

i always do the screwdriver thing.

poison

Put your car on all 4 wheels (with the front driver side being the donut if you don't have access to it), put the car into 5th gear, and have a friend press on the brakes while putting some damn muscle into the breaker bar

luti

What's the screwdriver trick? Where in the flywheel do you jam it, not inbetween teeth right? Does it affect the clutch in anyway?

StyleTEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put your car on all 4 wheels (with the front driver side being the donut if you don't have access to it), put the car into 5th gear, and have a friend press on the brakes while putting some damn muscle into the breaker bar </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tried that, crank pully still spun like crazy

Lord Helmet

the only easier way would be with the pulley tool or the screwdriver trick. **** the pulley tool only cost $40. makes more sense then ******* around with the car all day when you can get it done the right way in the first place. work smarter not harder.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net

redlinegsr

BREAKER BAR

JDMHN8

This is the time to go ahead and buy and air compressor and a 1/2" impact gun. It'll remove that bolt in seconds and is one of the most useful tools I own. Just do it now and be happy forever...

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the time to go ahead and buy and air compressor and a 1/2" impact gun. It'll remove that bolt in seconds and is one of the most useful tools I own. Just do it now and be happy forever...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have yet to find an air tool that will remove the crank pulley bolt from any B or D series motor I've ever worked on, including ones I've tried at professional garages. Good old leverage hasn't let me down yet.

MightyMouseTech

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have yet to find an air tool that will remove the crank pulley bolt from any B or D series motor I've ever worked on, including ones I've tried at professional garages. Good old leverage hasn't let me down yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My Snap-On IM6100 1/2" impact has yet to meet a bolt it can't remove......although having 120 psi shop pressure running through 1" line helps as well

JDMHN8

I've got the Ingersoll-Rand 2135Ti. It busted the crank bolt loose in seconds with 100 PSI through a 3/4" hose. This thing could crank over a tug boat.

Eibach95Civic

all of you are wrong but right, if that makes any sense..I HAD TO TAKE myne off last week and the best thing is to do is HEAT up the bolt till it turns red, then turn it...trust me this will work

haggar

Something thats much better than jamming a screwdriver:

Get a 3 ft piece of 1/4" thick bar stock(The home depot carrys various pieces of metal), and drill 2 holes in it, so it can be bolted to the flywheel with two of the bolts for the pressure plate. Let that wedge onto something like the floor, and then go to town with a breaker bar. Angle iron is also good, won't flex in either direction.

I used to have air-cooled VW dune buggies. On a VW, the flywheel is only held on with 1 huge nut(the gland nut) and a bunch of dowel pins. The gland nut needs to be tightened to 285 ft-lbs!!! That took a 4 ft sturdy pipe on the breaker bar..

MightyMouseTech

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eibach95Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all of you are wrong but right, if that makes any sense..I HAD TO TAKE myne off last week and the best thing is to do is HEAT up the bolt till it turns red, then turn it...trust me this will work</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, if you do this, you have to replace the bolt, because you have just tempered the metal and made it brittle. There is also a good chance you damaged the front main seal and possibly the timing belt and timing belt covers. Never put heat on the crank bolt.......

Black 2K

Before i smartened up and got air tools i had a friggin bitch getting this thing off... my arms were twice the size. it was the harders thing ever. Then a friend of mine had to take his off and i was warning him of the same thing... Let him borrow my crank pully holder and it took him 30 secs with no ait tools. I was friggin pissed!!!! What he did is spray pb buster on the bolt for like 2 days... That stuff works and he got it off without a hassle.

So go out and get some pb buster and do that... will save you the hassle.. either that or go out and get a 30 gal compressor and a 1/2 impact gun...

twuelfing

if you need to remove that bolt just buy the stupid tool!

if you screw around with it all day you are an idiot. The tool is available on line and you can use it to torgue the bolt back on properly. Which is very difficult without it.

the screw driver on the flywheel is a bad idea. I broke the tip of a craftsman screw driver (biggest professional blade driver they make).
didnt really care about the screw driver but that car had a piece of screw driver in that housing forever.

bottom line, its not worth wasting a bunch of time to avoid buying the propper tool. If you are committed enough to take that bolt out you should be committed enough to do it right.

mntuner2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have yet to find an air tool that will remove the crank pulley bolt from any B or D series motor I've ever worked on, including ones I've tried at professional garages. Good old leverage hasn't let me down yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My ingersol rand (7131?) can take off any bolt you throw at it. (As long as the head stays attached to the threads)

You could buy a used compressor for around $200 with enough capacity to keep you busy a long time. Or rent one for ~$40 a day (compressor and 1/2 impact)

Oh Yeah,

If the pulley is seized on the crank end, take a pry bar and gently pry on the back of the pulley, rotate crank, gently pry 180 from original pry, rotate... it will come off if you just keep "wiggling" it off that nasty corrosion.

Lord Helmet

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twuelfing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you need to remove that bolt just buy the stupid tool!

if you screw around with it all day you are an idiot. The tool is available on line and you can use it to torgue the bolt back on properly. Which is very difficult without it.

the screw driver on the flywheel is a bad idea. I broke the tip of a craftsman screw driver (biggest professional blade driver they make).
didnt really care about the screw driver but that car had a piece of screw driver in that housing forever.

bottom line, its not worth wasting a bunch of time to avoid buying the propper tool. If you are committed enough to take that bolt out you should be committed enough to do it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

finally I see someone agrees with me. and for eibach95civic your a dumbass for heat up the crankbolt your technique will do more harm then good. mainly damages to the bolt itself(make it brittle as hell), the pulley( warp the pulley now), timing belt cover(probably melt it), timing belt(melt and snap it off), and the front main seal(damage the proper sealing surface).
for $40 the pulley tool will do wonders. but then I realized some people are more stubborn then others.

AngryTroll

My Ingersol Rand 2135ti takes off ALL Honda crank bolts (even the Odyssey). Not bad for a 4 lb. tool.

Mac tools sells a 1/2" drive tool for crank bolts. It's an impact style tool you hit with a large hammer. It's only about 1" thick (it's about 30" long) plus the size of the socket you use. It's more useful for rear wheel drive/4 wheel drive cars and trucks since it's usually a tight fit for an impact wrench.

P.S. I shouldn't have to say this but here it goes. Don't ever heat up a crank bolt.
That's the kind of technique you learn working in a junk yard.

twuelfing

i think heating up the crank bolt may destroy part of the harmonic balancer in the crank pulley. If i remember correctly it is isolated with some type of rubber.