YuckyCorpse

thank you very much!

stowne78

Your welcome

1cam tom

anything more then a 95 amp fuse on a 4 gauge wire and the wire could melt before the fuse. the 1 gauge wire will handle 145 amps

YuckyCorpse

Installed the summit racing kit with the 1 gauge cable. I used a 150 amp anl fuse. the car cranked over and started just fine in 10 degree weather today. I would recommend the summit relocation kit. it comes with everything you need "except the fuse holder"

good quality stuff too, now i dont have to worry about my battery flying at the back of my head.

thanks for all the suggestions!

fcm

Some good info here and some real dumb stuff.

The fuse protects the cable so it needs to be whatever the cable is rated for.

Yes you need a fuse.

Worst possible fuse is an AGU, a circuit breaker or ANL fuse should be used.

The cable should be one piece, no connections other then where needed, batt./fuse/starter motor, and all of them soldered.

The cable should run from batt. to the starter motor, a smaller gauge fused, [fusible link] cable can be run from the starter motor to the engine bay fuse box.

The alt. charge lead should be connected to the starter motor.

Batt. ground needs to be the same gauge or thicker then the power cable and should be grounded as close to batt. as possible to the cars frame rail, a chassis to engine ground needs to be run from the frame rail in the engine bay to the engine.

The "trick" is to keep the connections, [power and grounds] to as few as possible, using the starter motor batt. terminal as a connection point for all the powers will eliminate the need for a "splitter box". 94