dochmees

Is there any kind of function differences between AEM FPR and B&M Commandflo Fuel Pressure Optimizer? Possible drivebility (power) effects?

PS! B&M Commandflo is 5 times cheaper than AEM FPR. Of course AEM is 1:1 FPR which replaces the stock FPR, as B&M uses stock FPR, but still the price difference is hudge!!!!

Also is the Fuel Pressure Regulator "must product" if my 2 gen Honda CRX 1.6i-16V DOHC is equipped with K&N CAI, 4-2-1 header and sportexhaust system?


AEM FPR:




B&M Commandflo Fuel Pressure Optimizer:

Desslok

I guess it depends on if you are going to boost, or use nitrous. AEM doesn't recommend theirs to be used on n2o kits that use direct bottle pressure to modify fuel pressure. If you don't ever want to put your stock one back on, adn want to save money, go with the B&M. Is it a "must have"? No. Can you free up some HP? Yes, get it dyno tuned and you can get from 0-15 HP depending on your motor/mods. If you don't have it on the dyno and don't now what you are doing can you lose HP? Yes.

dochmees

Thnx for your answer

If I install FPR and will not get my CRX dynoed, how can I lost power?

If I have K&N CAI and 4-2-1 header I can presume that my car runs little bit lean. If I measure the stock pressure and after that will boost lets say 2-3 psi more than stock fuel pressure I don`t think it would harm my Hp readings, if I go too wild then of course overfuelling is a bad thing.

PS! Does anyone know how much usually should be Honda CRX 1.6i-16V DOHC (with K&N and 4-2-1 header + sportexhaust) fuel pressure to gain some power and to confirm that its not run too lean? I know that dyno is the right place, but in our country there are no dyno possibilities so others practice would be nice!!! Stock fuel pressure should be 35-41 psi.


[Modified by dochmees, 7:05 AM 11/21/2002]

Desslok

Yes, with those mods, I would start with bumping it up 2 lbs. You can then try 1 at a time and do some runs. A good method to verify your butt dyno readings is in 2nd or 3rd gear, start at a certain RPMs(say 2000) then floor it and count how long it takes to get to redline. It can't compare to a dyno, but at least it is somewhat measurable.

Kataku2K3

I would go with the AEM..... I've used both to tune and the AEM seems a lot more tuneable.... The B&M works but just not as well..... But is it worth the extra money??? The AEM is like 3 times as expensive!!

Desslok

I paid about $130 for my AEM, only about double the B&M.

EP3_05

With the B&M you can only raise the fuel pressure. With the AEM you can both raise and lower the fuel pressure.

Norcalstoppy

Also you must keep in mind that B&M reuses stock FPR. Meaning it'll keep the stock flow rate, where as AEM is a total replacement and, i'm sure, will out flow stock ones.

Jay Kim

Kataku2K3

hehehe yea, that's not bad... I've got those B&M's before for like $40 and the AEM's normally run around $150 so I was just saying.... AEM

Desslok

Oh, yeah, I almost forgot another benefit of the AEM, it comes with replaceable discharge ports in different sizes. The B&M you would have to drill out the orifice with the right bit. With higher fuel pressure, under hard driving when you let off the gas, the stock one may not discharge enough, causing an overly rich condition causing a rough idle(possible stalling) until the pressure regulates.