frankenghia

I am not sure. Post some pics and we can see if its anything obvious. Try the throttle cable and also make sure your idle screw isn't all the way out or in.

Quickshot23

Not sure if this is part of the problem but when I shift and press the throttle it bucks hard...for example...in 2nd gear when I shift into 3rd and I lightly press the throttle it doesnt accelerate smoothly until I throttle stronger

The Throttle cable appears to be the wrong one...I will take a pic to show you what I mean.

Thanks alot guys

crxsi1

sounds like the throttle cable just needs to be adjusted, if its the wrong one well thats a problem.... when its all off check the cable and see if it is tight it sould have an ever so slight slack to it when the throttle is closed while the car is off, loosen the nut and back the cable off a little.....

crxsi1

also the jerk could be caused by a bad throttle spring, does it slap closed when u open the throttle or do u feel a little stick to it... on the other note it could just jerk cause the rpms always want to jump up when u shift... look at that cable and loosen it up and go from there

Quickshot23

Here is a pic of the throttle cable - If you notice, the nuts are to the left of the bracket that should be holding the cable. The cable has a zip tie around it at the bracket to the right.

Any ideas?



In this pic there is a "thing" that looks as though it should have a hose on it but it has nothing. Can someone let me know if/what if anything should be attached to this?



These two circles outline the fact that the hose is plugged and the other end has a breather on it...could this be a cause of the vacuum leak?



And here is a large pic of the engine bay if you can see anything else that could be an issue. (Sorry, not the best cam)

crxsi1

lol....ya u need to get that cable on correctly and it looks like that will fix ur problem make sure its the right one.... and the small little intake look alike is just a breather for the valve cover.... that vacuum line pluged up i believe goes to that peice on the fuel rail cant think of the name too it but the vacuum i believe help it regulate the fuel pressure, ill have to look in my manuel and see how it is all hooked up.....

Quickshot23

Yes please let me know because my idle is ridiculous right now and its getting colder so I want to resolve this so I am not "warming" up the car at 3k RPM

mibayaua

just guessing,,,could it be your camshaft position sensor,,,,I had a similar problem before, idles high, hesitates during acceleration,,, I checked the timing and it's way off and distributor is turned all the way clockwise,,,just guessing

Quickshot23

How can I test the camshaft position sensor?

Another thing that this is doing...when I pull out in the morning and I drive down the street the car will actually pull like an automatic...what I mean is that if I shift to 2nd gear and let off the gas it will drive like I am giving it gas.

This is likely due to the fact that the idle is at 3k and it is acting as I have the gas slightly pushed in...

Does this help?

Thanks again.

frankenghia

have you disconnected your cable from the throttle body yet??????????? Does it affect the idle any????

Quickshot23

I will be doing this tonight...also the idle screw is frozen in place so I will likely be taking the TB off this weekend and trying to break it loose.

Because I am doing this stuff, is there anything else I should check while I have these parts off?

As for the place on the fuel rail that has a "nozzle" to connect a hose, is this important to have on? If so I will pick up a hose and correct that.

Thanks again guys.

Quickshot23

I am going to embed a video of the car starting with the throttle cable disconnected

This is after the car is fully warmed up and I just disconnected the cable...

[flash=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1q4dEwkAmY]width=425 height=350[/flash]

Quickshot23

Any ideas? I feel it isnt so good for the engine to warm up this way so if you have any ideas and ways I can test it I would be very grateful...

Thanks alot

Quickshot23

Another clue....when I am sitting at a light and its idling at 2000rpm (after its warm) and I rev then engine (even if it is barely at all ie. 2200rpm) the idle will drop to about 1000rpm and then idle back up to 2000rpm

Im trying to test all angles...any advice is appreciated.

Thanks guys

-Stephen

Quickshot23

Today after some "harder driving" and what I mean by that I revved to about 7k 1st through 4th and after that it idled at about 3000 when it was fully warmed...

Im not sure what is going on but it doesnt seem great for the engine...

Also as a side note, I do not normally drive like this but I wanted to see how the car would take to this.

Please let me know any ideas on what is going on.

***Edit***

Its getting worse...now the idle is hanging. What I mean by that is, when I used to rev slightly and let off at a light or a stop sign the engine speed would drop to about 1100 or so but not its holding at about 2500 and when I rev is revs up to about 3000 and then sits there and very slowly (3-5 secs) comes back down to 2500

Thanks for your input

Quickshot23

The idle screw is very tight...I started to attempt to turn it and it started to strip the screw head so I stopped.

I read on these forums that the idle screw will only allow an adjustment of about 200RPM up or down, is this incorrect?

Quickshot23

Any ideas?

Quickshot23

My next attempt is to clean the FITV - There is a good write-up on here about it so it will be done this weekend.

Any other suggestions are also appreciated.

Thanks

Quickshot23

***Update***

I did the FITV and from the instructions here on Honda-Tech I got the cold idle to drop from about 3000rpm to about 1500rpm.

This seems great right? Well the issue is that when it warms up the idle actually increases to about 2000rpm.

This is much better then when we started but there is still an issue.

My question is...there seems to be alot of vacuum/coolant lines that are capped...

You can see some of these in the pictures and a new set that I discovered today...There are two that go through the throttle body but they are plugged.

Could this be an issue?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you

stock95coupe

If it drops to 1k with a hair of throttle, adjust the TPS to be a bit higher at idle - say 0.55v. Whatever works in your case. It almost sounds like the TPS wires are reversed, but multimeters don't lie.

As for the 3v WOT, with the car off have someone push the pedal while you look at the throttle body plate. It should turn almost 90 degrees. If not the throttle cable is wrong. Take a picture of the intake manifold, someone here can identify it, then you can order a new cable.

Quickshot23

Thank you very much for your help. I will definitely adjust the TPS ASAP.

I do have a few pictures above of the intake manifold. Do you need any specific part of the intake to be close up to identify or can this be done with the pictures above?

The other issue is that the car starts at 1500rpm now but once warm or driven the car then idles at 2000rpm. Its almost backwards as it should drop 500rpm or so once warm it increases about 500rpm.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Quickshot23

Any ideas? Also, when I drive the car hard the idle increases.

What could cause that?

Flagmichael

Hello from the new guy!

It may be the same thing I had on my daughter's 1993 Accord - the intake manifold gasket was leaking. The idle was variable, up to 3000 rpm. I diagnosed it by removing the intake duct from the air cleaner, plugging the hole for the breather pipe, opening the throttle by hand, placing the duct to my face and blowing in it. There should be very little leakage but I could hear air hissing. A helper found it was coming from around the intake manifold gasket. It was leaking above and below, the result of the paper gasket shattering.

Because Honda uses MAP sensors, vacuum leaks are like opening the throttle.