***Bizarre Spark Problem!*** Please Help
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***Bizarre Spark Problem!*** Please Help
New day, same frustrating problem. I don't have spark until I let the key go in the ignition. I don't know how to describe it. It's like an electrical back-fire. I've tried the following tests and checks.
1. I have two new coils that I've tried along with two new igniters. Both test fine with the multimeter.
2. I tested the plug that brings power to the coil and I have 11.9v... plenty of power.
3. Everything appears to be grounded.
4. My wires are new, but just to be sure I tested for power right at the distributer cap where the wire goes in. As with the spark, there was no reading until I let go of the key.
5. I searched google and a ford site had a posting with similar symptoms and a site member blamed something called a DS Module. It was very vague and had no real answer to my problem.
I do not have my alternator connected, but I am told that if I have a strong battery, it's not necessary to get spark or start it, just to recharge the battery.
This is my last issue to solve before my mini-me swap is complete. Has anybody had this problem and does anybody have an answer?
1. I have two new coils that I've tried along with two new igniters. Both test fine with the multimeter.
2. I tested the plug that brings power to the coil and I have 11.9v... plenty of power.
3. Everything appears to be grounded.
4. My wires are new, but just to be sure I tested for power right at the distributer cap where the wire goes in. As with the spark, there was no reading until I let go of the key.
5. I searched google and a ford site had a posting with similar symptoms and a site member blamed something called a DS Module. It was very vague and had no real answer to my problem.
I do not have my alternator connected, but I am told that if I have a strong battery, it's not necessary to get spark or start it, just to recharge the battery.
This is my last issue to solve before my mini-me swap is complete. Has anybody had this problem and does anybody have an answer?
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Re: (sexyrex)
i have 11.9v going to the dizzy with the key on. my gauges aren't plugged in cause i need to get a different cluster for this harness.
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It may be a bad ignition switch that's not putting power out in the start postition while cranking, but is putting it out in Key on, engine off. Get a wiring diagram of the ign. switch and check for proper power output in different key positions.
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Re: (nitrofish420)
I checked my ignition and it's fine... but it seems as though my starter is starving the rest of my system of power and thats why when I let go of the key it sparks... for a split second the power goes just to the coil and not towards turning the engine over.
#10
Re: (murray195)
ok..take cap rotor and the 'TEC' cover off, disconnect wires from ICM and check for voltage between ground and black/yellow wire. turn key on. let me know right away what you get
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Re: (sexyrex)
my buddy took his multimeter back with him but I have two new coils and two igniters that i've tried and the plug coming to the alternator is putting out an 11.9v reading. The grounds inside the dizzy are clean and solid and the wires are fine. I'm running out of ideas here haha
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Re: (sexyrex)
Do you know any good sites for wiring or service manuals? I've been able to follow them for wiring my interior harness but they aren't very good for following wires to their destinations when it comes to the alternator. I tried googling for alt wiring for the d16z6 and d15b2 but didn't turn up anything usefull. tomorrow I'm going to get my gauge cluster set up and see what kinds of codes i'm throwing and will have the multi-meter. I found out my d16 alt is shot and i'm starting to run on a tight budjet. Otherwise I wouldn't bother with the cutting and splicing.
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Re: (sexyrex)
Theres a limited selection, but if anybody is looking for some service manuals http://www.hondahookup.com has some decent ones but you have to become a member. A lot of them are fragments it seems. Weren't a lot of help for fixing my alternator situation though.
#21
Re: (murray195)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murray195 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked my ignition and it's fine... but it seems as though my starter is starving the rest of my system of power and thats why when I let go of the key it sparks... for a split second the power goes just to the coil and not towards turning the engine over.</TD></TR></TABLE>It's not too unusual for the electrical part of the ignition switch to get flaky.
1) Unplug the small signal wire from the starter. That way your starter won't run.
2) Now turn the key to 'ON' and check for power at the distributor. Should be OK based on what you've said.
3) Now have someone turn the key to 'START' while you check for power at the distributor. (The starter won't run because it's signal is unplugged.)
I bet #3 gives you no power at the distributor. And you can't blame it on the starter drawing all that power...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murray195 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible to wire my d15 alternator for my d16? the d16 has 4 wires as oppose to 3.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My guess is a control wire. Some Hondas have a circuit which allows the ECU to disable the alternator when it wants to.
1) Unplug the small signal wire from the starter. That way your starter won't run.
2) Now turn the key to 'ON' and check for power at the distributor. Should be OK based on what you've said.
3) Now have someone turn the key to 'START' while you check for power at the distributor. (The starter won't run because it's signal is unplugged.)
I bet #3 gives you no power at the distributor. And you can't blame it on the starter drawing all that power...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murray195 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible to wire my d15 alternator for my d16? the d16 has 4 wires as oppose to 3.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My guess is a control wire. Some Hondas have a circuit which allows the ECU to disable the alternator when it wants to.
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Re: (JimBlake)
alright, I disconnected the starter, hooked up the multi-meter, and when I turned the key I watched it fall to zero and when I let the key go it jumped back up. Something is starving my coil of power.
#23
Re: (murray195)
The only thing that would starve it of power is the starter, and you had that unplugged. That leaves a bad ignition switch.
You can probably replace the electrical part of the ignition switch without changing the key cylinder.
You can probably replace the electrical part of the ignition switch without changing the key cylinder.
#25
Re: (murray195)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murray195 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright well i'll head to the wrecker tomorrow
</TD></TR></TABLE>Make sure you check continuity at all switch positions before you install it in your car. Flaky switches seem sorta common with Honda.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Make sure you check continuity at all switch positions before you install it in your car. Flaky switches seem sorta common with Honda.