THEhomelessONE

So my CRX with 330f 250r, illuminas and a048's loves to oversteer on lift off. Was hoping I wouldn't have this issue with these street rates. Not great for a panic stop on the street. Need to dial in the rear shocks but I don't know what the rear adjusters look like, bought them without adjusters. It's got a hex shape stud with one section cut out, then the adjuster is a half circle down the stud. Called customer support and tokico is no longer in US I guess. Appreciate any help, thank you!

Tyson

yeah they used to just send them out free with stickers before they got bought out.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...sters&_sacat=0


whats your swaybar setup? alignment?

lift oversteer is just typical anyway. your fronts grip a lot, so when you lighten the rear its going to want to swing around. just the nature of weight transfer and driving.

fast drivers like it that way... just get back on the throttle, plant the rear again and power thru the turn.

THEhomelessONE

Thanks Tyson, also wanted to say thanks for the wealth of knowledge you've shared across the forums. Just found out the front adjusters work in the rear. Stock HF front bar, no rear bar. Slight toe out all around I believe. Feels less bouncy set to 1 vs 5, tire pressures are 28f 24r. Maybe low tire pressures were causing the bounciness on stiffer damping settings.

Is there a set of rates you could recommend me to help eliminate lift off oversteer? Not sure if I'd be better off going stiffer springs in front or softer rear. 450f 250r? 330f 150r? Loved the way my e30 handled with 500f 800r, tons of front grip, lift wouldn't swing out from lift off, only if I'd hit the brakes I'd feel a wiggle or really got on the throttle early. I know apples and oranges but best way I can describe it. I'd prefer the front to let go before the rear but that seems impossible with the weight balance of a crx.

Tyson

oh yeah, its all the same adjusters.

your toe-out the rears seems like the biggest contribution. should be like 1/16 total in.

kind of odd that youre getting that strong of a lift tho with no rear bar. this is on an autox run? canyons?

and that low rear psi should even help with more rear grip.

i wouldnt mess with your spring rates yet. the stock GC are fine to start with.

getting either end of the car to grip or slide is just how you drive it. the fwd layout should have you plow thru. it takes a stiff rear setup to get the rear to come out, which like i said, is what fast drivers actually like.

when i was racing id set them all to 5. and the rears back to 2 or 3 or something for street.

THEhomelessONE

Yeah all the suspension bushings/links are old, probably adding even more toe out in hard corners. I could literally take corners quicker with stock struts though which had me worried.

It spun out with all adjusters on 5. I set it to 1 all around and it had more of a lazy bounce if that makes sense. Tried 3 all around and it feels much better, stiff but controlled.

This was on the street on an on-ramp at night. Yeah I try to keep rear psi as low as possible to get heat in the back tires but without the tire rolling over the tread edge indicators on the tire.

Maybe the rear bottomed out, pretty close to the bump stops even though I have a 2" gap between tires and fenders. I'm going to order some cheap top hats. Maybe an inch before bump stop touches? Thanks for the help, I'll play it safe until I can get some decent bushings/links in the rear along with an alignment.

Tyson

how big are your bumpstops? stock height? cut them in half.

THEhomelessONE

Yeah they're already cut, I think I might have been sold a set for an eg or something. It'll do for now until I can get a nice set of Koni's. Thanks for your help!