o2flow.net

Ok so I am about to buy a Koni Yellow/GC combo and was wondering what spring rates I should use? Does anyone have this setup on an EK hatch with a camber kit and 15s?

Currently the car has HR Race Springs, stock struts and a SPC Camber Kit. 14s barely fit without rubbing....



EDIT: It has HR Race, not Sport, typo....


Modified by o2flow.net at 1:52 PM 3/16/2006

VeilSide_Mas

i really wonder how just lowering springs like sport can make your ride so lowered........mine is like a friggin SUV......

handofgod

Your front wheel seems like it's too far back in the wheel well... I'm wondering if maybe your control arms were damaged at the same time as that big dent happened. Maybe it would be best to think about repairing your car before you worry about switching your suspension setup.

chrisw85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by handofgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your front wheel seems like it's too far back in the wheel well... I'm wondering if maybe your control arms were damaged at the same time as that big dent happened. Maybe it would be best to think about repairing your car before you worry about switching your suspension setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah it looks like you have a shetload of setback. measure from front center cap to the back centercap on each side and compare the two. Shouldn't be more than a .5" off at most. Less than a 1/4" is common on fwd vehicles.

o2flow.net

Car just had camber kit (SPC) installed and was fully aligned....I took out the plastic well linings, so it may just be an optical illusion??

cxcivic

Hey, that car looks familiar looks like you have been treating her well. it does look like the front wheel is too far back...

o2flow.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, that car looks familiar looks like you have been treating her well. it does look like the front wheel is too far back...</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya, wouldn't you know it, I can actually drive stick now!

Any idea if Andy ever ran a turbo setup in it? I don't know why he would go for the full 3" Thermal and test pipe otherwise????

chrisw85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by o2flow.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car just had camber kit (SPC) installed and was fully aligned....I took out the plastic well linings, so it may just be an optical illusion??</TD></TR></TABLE>


measure from center cap to center cap on each side and comapre the two. the wheel base for EK (i thinks its for all EK civics) hatch is 103.2"

Stinkycheezmonky

Looks like your caster is off for sure. Meanwhile, what will the car be used for? There's no magic spring rate number that works for everything, so where are you willing to compromise? For example, 800lb/1000lb might work really well on track, but would suck a TON on the street. Alternatively, 350lb/450lb might be more comfy on the street, but would also be a bit soft on track.

cxcivic

its 2 1/4 piping.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by o2flow.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya, wouldn't you know it, I can actually drive stick now!

Any idea if Andy ever ran a turbo setup in it? I don't know why he would go for the full 3" Thermal and test pipe otherwise????</TD></TR></TABLE>

o2flow.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its 2 1/4 piping.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh.

I knew that

o2flow.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like your caster is off for sure. Meanwhile, what will the car be used for? There's no magic spring rate number that works for everything, so where are you willing to compromise? For example, 800lb/1000lb might work really well on track, but would suck a TON on the street. Alternatively, 350lb/450lb might be more comfy on the street, but would also be a bit soft on track. </TD></TR></TABLE>

looking for the best compromise between street and auto-x. Don't know if that makes sense, or should I just pick the best street ride and then just adjust right before auto-xing?

Stinkycheezmonky

Well, you can't adjust spring rate unless you change out springs. I don't think it's really that big a deal, but I wouldn't bother doing it for autox, given the amount of "track" time involved. I'd go with something fairly streetable, maybe 350/450.

o2flow.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, you can't adjust spring rate unless you change out springs. I don't think it's really that big a deal, but I wouldn't bother doing it for autox, given the amount of "track" time involved. I'd go with something fairly streetable, maybe 350/450.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ohhh I thought the entire point of coilovers was to be able to adjust the spring rate?? Am I missing something? What do you adjust on a coilover?

s13browe

coilovers adjust the drop, up or down height.. you probly thinking about adjstable struts but that adjusts dampening rate not spring rate...

o2flow.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13browe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coilovers adjust the drop, up or down height.. you probly thinking about adjstable struts but that adjusts dampening rate not spring rate...</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm I thought the drop was dictated by the rate of the spring, like compressed=more drop, lessen the compression=less drop. The strut simply acts like a strut....I guess I am way off on this

Stinkycheezmonky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by o2flow.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I am way off on this </TD></TR></TABLE>

You sure are. Spring rate is the stiffness of the spring, and deals only with spring behavior (sitting still, i.e. how low the car is, is not spring behavior). When talking about compression or rebound when referring to suspension, that's dealing with the behavior of the shock/strut, and has nothing to do with the spring.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

CG coil-overs will allow you to adjust the ride height of your vehicle. When you purchase them, you can choose from any particular spring-rate front & rear. Once you choose the spring rate, your stuck with it until you buy new/used replacement springs.

Koni Sport (yellow) shocks will allow you to adjust the rebound stiffness of your shocks. Rebound stiffness is used to adjust the under/over-steer characteristics of your car, as well as the overall ride comfort (somewhat).

Compression stroke: The action of the wheel moving upward in the wheel-well.
Rebound stroke: The action of the wheel moving downward in the wheel-well.
Spring Rate: The amount of weight it takes to compress a given spring 1 inch.
Under-steer: When your front tires loose traction before the rears (plowing)
Over-steer: When your rear tires loose traction before the fronts (spinning)

PS: Your car has shocks, not struts...

o2flow.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CG coil-overs will allow you to adjust the ride height of your vehicle. When you purchase them, you can choose from any particular spring-rate front & rear. Once you choose the spring rate, your stuck with it until you buy new/used replacement springs.

Koni Sport (yellow) shocks will allow you to adjust the rebound stiffness of your shocks. Rebound stiffness is used to adjust the under/over-steer characteristics of your car, as well as the overall ride comfort (somewhat).

Compression stroke: The action of the wheel moving upward in the wheel-well.
Rebound stroke: The action of the wheel moving downward in the wheel-well.
Spring Rate: The amount of weight it takes to compress a given spring 1 inch.
Under-steer: When your front tires loose traction before the rears (plowing)
Over-steer: When your rear tires loose traction before the fronts (spinning)

PS: Your car has shocks, not struts... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for such an informative post. It must sound like I was eating paint chips when I made the first post...

I'd to effectively run 15x6.5 or 15x7 Slips without rubbing. I know plenty of you have this same setup (15" Slips and GC/Koni Yellows) so I figured someone could help with the correct rates. The HR Race Springs are pretty bumpy, but I know that my stock shocks have something to do with that also.
So what are struts then?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Struts are a different form of shock that effectivly become a part of the steering & suspension geometry. Imagine your shock is solidly attached to the knuckle & there is no upper control arm. The complete term is "MacPherson Strut". 2001+ civics have strut suspension up front...



EG, EK & DC chassis have double wishbone suspension w/ coil-over shocks up front:

o2flow.net

Learning yet again

Does anyone know what the stock spring rate for H&R Race springs are? (96-00 3dr)