vartok

just got a 93 Civic LX a few weeks ago and got most of the bugs worked out, so im starting to look at upgrades...

Im going to start with suspension/handling because, hey, what good is 300hp if you cant keep it on the road. And no, when i go to do performance, im not shooting that high... looking at more 200-220

This is only the 3rd vehicle i have owned and my first car and import (s10 and a f-150 were my first two... still have the f-150 but the 302 drains the tank too fast). I am really clueless on where to even start.... I just got new tires put on it... im sure they arnt great but what was on there was starting to show cords so i needed something. Hankook OPTIMO H724 @ 195/60/14 on steelies >.< I'm not looking to autoX or anything, but there are some twisty back roads that no one goes down where i could have some fun...

I would liek to do most of the work my self so maybe some easy stuff up front that can help then work up to the harder things. Thanks in advance

Libertariat

Great idea. Drive on twisty back roads with terrible tires and no seat time.

Get good tires. Don't drive stupid on the street. And read for about 15mins about "suspension suggestions" in the suspension forum. About 5 posts per day in the suspension forum are identical to this. Reading through those will get you the results you need more quickly.

Stating a budget is a good start. This is an expensive hobby.

98civdx

What he said. Besides the fact we still need more info.

Price range, do you have sway bars, do you want lowering springs or coilovers?

Please do your self a favor, go to the suspension forum and read. You will learn a lot, and it will make it easier for us to help you.

Tires are the most important part.

vartok

cant been any worse than the all terrain tires that are on my truck... and i wasnt going to be stupid about it... n0 speeding, just taking the curves a bit faster than they are posted... if i can take x curve at 45 in a 2ton tuck, im sure the civic can do the same

and sorry... im really new to this forum... didnt realize there was a suspension section >.>

vartok

Im guessing no to sway bars? to my knowlage the suspension is stock.... I would prolly go with lowering springs, but i cant go too low... horrible roads and some fairly big speed bumps at my collage. as for as price range... im not really sure yet... cheapish but not going to fall apart 1k miles down the road

98civdx

Turn your wheel to full lock and take a peak. If it's there you'll see it.

Sway bars will make quite a large difference.

Libertariat

The only suspension you should consider on a budget is what I have: Progress CS-II.

Good customer service, you can pick your rates, 1 year warranty, cheap replacement components.

There's nothing else better at the sub-$600 price range.

That said, I still wish I had just gone ahead with koni/GC in the long run for the extra few hundred bucks. I had the money, but thought I'd give progress a shot. I love the suspension, but you'll always wonder if you're missing out.

Progress also offers the best deal on a rear 22mm swaybar. $180. The mounting brackets negate the need for a subframe brace.

Swaybars and tires will probably do more for your cars handling than coilovers.

vartok

so, no sway bar on there... would i need to do front and rear bars at the same time? also would i need to get an alignment again if i put them on? (cant remember off the top of my head what has to come off for them to go on)

I know the tires are crap, but crap tires are all they places around here had in stock for that size and with the cords starting to show, i really couldnt wait, so as soon as it comes time for new ones, ill be getting better ones

98civdx

Personaly, I would never just run a front sway bar. This is just me. So, yes I would do front and rear at the same time. However it is not required.

I would reccomend for you to pick a front bar, and put it on, and see how you like it.
You may find it is just fine without a rear bar. If not, grab a integra rear sway bar.

I am 99% sure you would need to sway both front and rear lower control arms for those of the integra. In this case, yes, you should always get it aligned.

Having a $$ amount would really help us reccomend something for you.

vartok

ok... well... lets say 600 for now and then do will do further upgrades in the fall (more student loan money among other things)

98civdx

Start hunting down some sway bars/lower control arms. I would also look into Energy suspensin endlinks, and sway bar bushings. I was told the endlinks will help stiffen things up. I am ruing the bushings, without any issues.

Or you could Koni Str-t shocks, and some sort of lowering spring for about 600. I would say wait untill you could do it all at one time, and than go and get it aligned.

vartok

ok, so if i went with sway bars first i would need lower control arms too?

and with the lowering springs... suggestions on how low? liek i said, there is a fairly large speed bump on the exit from my collage and i have to come up a curb to get in my driveway

del sol cal

lca,s wont improve handling that much if any you might want to get a set of aftermarket lowered springs and a rear swaybar that will definitely improve the cars handling

98civdx

They won't do crap for handleing.

I said LCA's becuase there is a large chance your current Lca's don't have the hole for the endlinks.


Im lowerd about 2.5 inches and I haven't had any issues, besides scrapping mud flaps.

vartok

Im prolly going to go with shocks and lowering springs first (if i dont just puth the money back and do it all at once) I always thought that car sat a little too high... ill look around at pics and see what looks best.. can always go lower later... prolly gonna got for a 1.5ish

EG1PJT

^^ Ya only downside to having a moderatly lowered car in WA. If you are worried about speed bumps about 2.5" should be what you should consider dropping your car. Mine is that low and I can get over the speed bumps at my school, though my mud flaps scrap. You should first do the swaybars and lcas for the swaybars and then see what else you have to spend then keep on looking. Craigslist is a good place to look if you know what type of condition a certain item should be in.

Libertariat

Trust me. Do a lot of reading and wait at least a few months and save your money and do it right the first time.

If you anticipate having larger overall goals in the future, doing things cheaply now is just throwing money down the toilet.

hondafreak95

Agreed, just save some money up, you will be glad you did in the long run.

vartok

how much is the ride quality degraded @ 2.5 drop? I already feel every bump in the road

98civdx

Doing it all at once is best, remember our cars are getting older and some of the OEM suspension parts are getting warn.

Ball joints, bushings, tie rods,etc.... Doing these will have a good affect on the car, and will be a lot easier when everything is already taken apart. Not only that, it will cheaper to only have the car aligned once, instead of multiple time. You could also spring for the lifetime at firestone, I have this. It has already paid for it self.

vartok

i know... i JUST had both inner tie rods replaced

98civdx

Perfect.
How many miles are on the car?

vartok

191k

Libertariat

Ride quality isn't affected by ride height so much as the spring rate and damper rebound.

Spring rates in correlation with the damper affect ride handling.

Good spring + good damper, does not = good handling.

The spring rate (progressive or linear falls in too) must be appropriately paired with a damper suited for a certain spring rate.

vartok

yeah, i know that its not the drop that does it, but dont if you drop your car, you have to go with a higher spring rate? i.e. stiffer