Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
10-18-2012, 09:13 PM
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Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
I notice this bushing is impossible to torque with the car at ride height, on the ground (cause torque wrench wont get in there from under the car cause the rim will scratch). Very very tight space. Even tried ramps and wont do. So what I want to know is, what we did was jack up the back, from the sides, with 1 jack on each side of the car, right in front of the rear wheel wells. Took wheel off, unloosened bolt till it was lose, then torqued bolt. Put wheel back on, lowered car.
10-18-2012, 09:38 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
Depending on the lift/your jack stands, you can just jack the car up and have it sit with the jack stands holding the suspension. That'll load the suspension so you can torque the crap.
10-18-2012, 09:41 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
This bushing is impossible to torque with car at ride height.
What we did, is the suspension not fully loaded?
10-18-2012, 10:38 PM
#4
Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
Jack the car up. Put jack stands under it. Then remove the wheel. Jack the trailing arm/lower control arm up until it starts to lift off the jack stand. Now torque bolt.
10-19-2012, 07:05 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
It's not that easy...
I've done it a few times recently because I've been doing a lot of suspension work on my car. This is what I do:
Rear:
-disconnect the rear sway bar and loosen all bolts that go through bushings (outer UCA, inner LCA, shock bolt, outer LCA, inner and outer compensator)
-measure hub to fender ride height
-lift the car and remove the rear shocks
-raise the hub to measured height and torque the UCA, LCA and compensator bolts to spec
-lower the hub and put the shock back
-lower the car and tighten the shock bolt
-reconnect sway bar
ALTERNATIVELY: you can tighten all the rear bolts with the car on the ground and without removing the shock, but it's not necessarily easier. You can reach the UCA bolt around the wheel if you have the correct size socket extender, and you can reach all the LCA bolts fairly easily from under the car. The compensator bolts are the tricky part, but you'll need an alighnment anyways so you only really need to worry about the outer bolt. To reach that bolt you need to lock two combination wrenches together because a socket wrench will not fit.
Front:
- disconnect sway bar
- loosen inner LCA bolt and shock bolt
- remove lower ball joint castle nut
- measure hub to fender height
- raise car and separate lower ball joint (this will make it easier to do the next step)
- remove the front shock
- raise knucle to ride height
- loosen and re-tighten UCA bolts
- tighten inner LCA bolt
- lower knucke and re-install shock
- take the car off jackstands and tighten the shock bolt
It's also possible to tighten the inner LCA with the car on the ground, but it's virtually impossible to do anything with the UCA bolts unless the shock is off. You do NOT need to mess with the compensator, as it spins freely within its washers.
Edit: reminder: you MUST get an alignment if you mess with the compensator bolts
Rear:
-disconnect the rear sway bar and loosen all bolts that go through bushings (outer UCA, inner LCA, shock bolt, outer LCA, inner and outer compensator)
-measure hub to fender ride height
-lift the car and remove the rear shocks
-raise the hub to measured height and torque the UCA, LCA and compensator bolts to spec
-lower the hub and put the shock back
-lower the car and tighten the shock bolt
-reconnect sway bar
ALTERNATIVELY: you can tighten all the rear bolts with the car on the ground and without removing the shock, but it's not necessarily easier. You can reach the UCA bolt around the wheel if you have the correct size socket extender, and you can reach all the LCA bolts fairly easily from under the car. The compensator bolts are the tricky part, but you'll need an alighnment anyways so you only really need to worry about the outer bolt. To reach that bolt you need to lock two combination wrenches together because a socket wrench will not fit.
Front:
- disconnect sway bar
- loosen inner LCA bolt and shock bolt
- remove lower ball joint castle nut
- measure hub to fender height
- raise car and separate lower ball joint (this will make it easier to do the next step)
- remove the front shock
- raise knucle to ride height
- loosen and re-tighten UCA bolts
- tighten inner LCA bolt
- lower knucke and re-install shock
- take the car off jackstands and tighten the shock bolt
It's also possible to tighten the inner LCA with the car on the ground, but it's virtually impossible to do anything with the UCA bolts unless the shock is off. You do NOT need to mess with the compensator, as it spins freely within its washers.
Edit: reminder: you MUST get an alignment if you mess with the compensator bolts
10-19-2012, 07:18 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
i have no idea what bushing youre talking about from the title, its very confusing.
but youre SUPPOSED to lift the car on jackstands, with the wheels off, jack up the suspension until its just slightly lifted off the jackstands or just a bit before, THEN torque the bolts.
this is ideally done after servicing the suspension and BEFORE you put the wheels on.
but youre SUPPOSED to lift the car on jackstands, with the wheels off, jack up the suspension until its just slightly lifted off the jackstands or just a bit before, THEN torque the bolts.
this is ideally done after servicing the suspension and BEFORE you put the wheels on.
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10-23-2012, 07:53 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
Well you won't actually get TRUE ride height with just a jack unless you disconnect sway bars and remove springs/shocks. When you push up on the LCA with a floor jack, behind the hub, you have the sway bar working against you, as well as leverage against you. Supporting the car's weight farther inboard than the hub/wheel mounting surface will cause the suspension to actually be loaded less than it normally is, and even more so if the sway bar is connected.
To get it right, you need to measure the hub-fender distance with the car on the ground at your normal ride height, before you start working. Then with the sway bar disconnected try to get as close to that measurement as possible before torquing the bolts. If you can't get it close then you'll need to remove the shock/spring assembly.
And ALWAYS used jack stands! Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack!
To get it right, you need to measure the hub-fender distance with the car on the ground at your normal ride height, before you start working. Then with the sway bar disconnected try to get as close to that measurement as possible before torquing the bolts. If you can't get it close then you'll need to remove the shock/spring assembly.
And ALWAYS used jack stands! Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack!
10-23-2012, 09:15 PM
#9
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
you dont have to "get it right".
the point is to not tighten them while at full droop or anywhere near.
the delta y at a level angle is negligible, if you remember your trig.
the point is to not tighten them while at full droop or anywhere near.
the delta y at a level angle is negligible, if you remember your trig.
10-23-2012, 10:07 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
Yes but I'm OCD perfectionist sometimes 
After getting all my HardRace bushings installed, I assembled all the arms back on the car and used measurements taken before I started to simulate ride height at each corner, with no springs or roll bars attached, and torqued all the bolts. Then I let it hang free and installed the springs, shocks, and roll bar end links.
After getting all my HardRace bushings installed, I assembled all the arms back on the car and used measurements taken before I started to simulate ride height at each corner, with no springs or roll bars attached, and torqued all the bolts. Then I let it hang free and installed the springs, shocks, and roll bar end links.
10-25-2012, 10:52 AM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
Yes but I'm OCD perfectionist sometimes After getting all my HardRace bushings installed, I assembled all the arms back on the car and used measurements taken before I started to simulate ride height at each corner, with no springs or roll bars attached, and torqued all the bolts. Then I let it hang free and installed the springs, shocks, and roll bar end links.
After getting all my HardRace bushings installed, I assembled all the arms back on the car and used measurements taken before I started to simulate ride height at each corner, with no springs or roll bars attached, and torqued all the bolts. Then I let it hang free and installed the springs, shocks, and roll bar end links.Well, did your OCD mandate that you press out and re-install the trailing arm bushing clocked correctly? (You know, the one bushing the vast majority never bother to clock.)
10-29-2012, 12:03 PM
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Re: Loading the suspension when torqing lower front knuckle bushing on rear of car
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