modifiedrocket

Since I couldn't find any post on the OBX subframe brace w/ 24mm rear sway bar, I thought I give it a try. I installed it about a month ago and have autocrossed it in 2 events. There are no subframe tears so far. The kit does improve handling since it mainly just a 24mm sway bar. Here are some of the problems I ran into:

1.) No installation manual. I used the ASR installation guide instead.

2.) The control arm bolts have the wrong thread pattern. See the picture below. It cost me $5 a piece for 2 high grade bolts.

3.) The bump stop for the polyurethane bushings don't stop the bushing. After the first race, the bushing almost came out completely. I had to weld on a washing cut in half to stop it from coming out. See the picture.

4.) The control arm holes don't line up perfectly. I hope this doesn't break my subframe. All of the other holes lined up correctly. I don't have any pictures.

5.) The adjustable sway bar end links are not vertical when installed. If you look at the picture, they are at an angle. I don't know if this is good or not. I also tried to install them on the outside but the angle was not better, so I put them on the inside.

The last pic is just what it looks like.


Any comments, welcome. I'm not an expert and may have installed it wrong.

phunhaus

I love that unique design! Way to go OBX!!

Reading all those issues makes it sound like nothing at all is right with the brace. This is why good parts cost more!

HARRY-DA

thats clean nut does it perform any better

eK24monster

No surprise... copy-cat companies = faiL

bmoua

dcvt16

i would think welding on the sway bar would alter the torsion or the way it performs, and quite possiblty strength.

modifiedrocket

I tack welded on the bump stop that is already there, not on the sway bar directly. I see the ASR 24mm sway bar also has bump stops.

lsekcrx

any type of heat transfer on that sway bar will alter it. the bar is made from spring steel which is tempered. u might want to invest in a new sway bar

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Looks like junk to me. Pretty sad when they can't even put bolts with the right thread in the box.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Get LCA's with the end link hole in the proper location and use OEM end links. Then the angle will be more vertical which will put less stress on the connections.

Natural Aspirations

You have the links on the wrong side of the bar

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

cluelessmale

iTrader: (1)

it almost looks like it is setup for OEM sway bar end links

modifiedrocket

I just bought a set and plan to put them on when it gets warm.

modifiedrocket

I weld sheet metal pretty often. I took precautions when welding it. I guess I will know if I break it autocrossing this year.

EusebioSam19

iTrader: (2)

i have the same setup but with A beaks tie bar

Gamma Ray

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info man

good write up

91h22cb7lx

after seeing this i broke down and picked up an asr, cant wait to put it on once the snow is gone

modifiedrocket

Tried the OEM end links. They were too short. The OEM bolts were also not thick enought for the point where it attaches to the end of the sway bar.

phunhaus

So I installed one of these this week (no, not m=on my car) and the hardware was the best part.

As the OP stated the bolt(s) for the LCA are the wrong thread pitch. The kicker is only 1 was threaded, the other was just a rod! Oops, OBX never even looked at the "bolt" before slapping the kit together!

Way to go, OBX. You do the industry proud!

98civdx

Not really suprised at all.
Try putting washers on the ends of the endlinks.
I had this issue when I put my blox endlinks in and washers did the trick.

lzyga09

dam that sucks, i really appreciate the review cuz i was about to buy that same set up, i mean its sooo cheep but if it doesnt work well, theres no point in geting it.