Doctor X

Before I even begin to talk about my questions regarding my topic post, I just would like to state I have searched on here and I have done a lot of research on suspension elsewhere as well. I didn't just hop on Honda-Tech and start my day off by being a lazy ***. I've spent hours Googling and reading up on threads about different setups however I have read mixed reviews.

Now, I'm interested in getting a new coilover setup for my Accord but I'm being torn between two companies that I'm sure you all are familiar with. For one: No I'm not considering Koni Yellows with Ground Controls from Eibach. I don't want to go that route, don't post any crap in this tread about Koni/GC. I don't track my car, I don't drive it that hard, I just want to be slammed really. My Teins right now are too soft for my liking, and I would like a stiffer setup. They also don't lower my car enough, plus the lower they are, the crappier the ride quality is. So I don't want to read anything about Koni Yellows with Ground Controls please.

Anyway, back on topic. I am seriously considering the Function Form coilover setup or the Megan Racing setup. I've heard numerous people state that all these coilovers are the same, since they "seem" to be manufactured in Taiwan. Big whoop. Japan outsources too, get a grip on it. In actuality they seem to be different in ways other than their appearance. Anyway, F2 Autolife's office is located in Alhambra, which is nice since if I ever needed to rebuild the shocks I could have them take a look at them. I'm not sure where Megan racings shop is but I'm pretty sure it's in the US somewhere. I've heard great things about the Megans, even though they are considered cheap for coilovers. Apparently Silvia owners love them as a cheap alternative. More so than the D2/Ksports coilovers (which F2 is being accused in some cases as being rebadged D2s or Ksports). A direct comparison between the Megans and the D2/Ksports was brutal on the Silvia forums. They were basically saying the D2s and Ksports were junk and shouldn't even be considered (thread). I've also read great things about the F2s. Many members on here seem to like them a lot, and have had an overall positive experience with them. One major difference I read on the two is that the Megans use steel parts, where the F2s use aluminum I believe. Although aluminum is good for saving weight, I was wondering if the structural integrity of the suspension is compromised. Anyone have comments about the build quality between the two? In actuality I realize that the valving on either of them is probably pretty crappy in comparison to Bilstein or Koni, so I've accepted this. I don't really need the dampening to be good for a track setup, I just want a nice streetable set of coilovers to dump my car and not have them drive like ***. I suppose I corner hard from time to time, but not lately. My tires are too bald.

Have any of you guys had experience with both of these companies? I rode in a Miata with the Megan Racing coilovers and I liked it a lot, however I have not ridden in a car with the Type 2 suspension setup from Function and Form. If I had, I probably wouldn't be posting this thread. Any personal experiences with them would be nice to read, so if you feel the need to post them please do. If I could get a ride in a car with a Type 2 suspension it would be more beneficial to my final decision but if you guys have any personal input, again, please feel free to chime in!

Doctor X

Nobody?

Doctor X

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PIC Performance

here is your problem:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now, I'm interested in getting a new coilover setup for my Accord but I'm being torn between two companies that I'm sure you all are familiar with. For one: No I'm not considering Koni Yellows with Ground Controls from Eibach. I don't want to go that route, don't post any crap in this tread about Koni/GC. I don't track my car, I don't drive it that hard, I just want to be slammed really. My Teins right now are too soft for my liking, and I would like a stiffer setup. They also don't lower my car enough, plus the lower they are, the crappier the ride quality is. So I don't want to read anything about Koni Yellows with Ground Controls please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You want a stiffer ride, you want to slam the car, but you don't want poor ride quality, and you don't want to spend money on a setup that you know others will suggest and have had good experiences with.

You say you've done a lot of research, but it doesn't seem like you have.

94 IntegraLS

I have PIC Apex coilovers but its not on your list... I lowered my DB7 about 2-2.25" with my PIC coilover set up... some people complain that its too stiff and some people love it including me.... I dont think your gonna get a good ride with any coilover if you slam your car and I know... I had like a 3" drop with my PIC's and it was awful... I raised it and that solved alot of my ride quality problems... If your gonna use your car for daily driving I wouldnt go lower than 2-2.25"... but anyway gl with your search for your ideal suspension setup... makes me wish I went with the Select coilover set up instead of the Apex's but either way I still like them.

Doctor X

Let me rephrase my definition of poor ride quality. I don't want to adjust the preload. A soft ride quality (like my Teins) is not something I like, I want something stiffer. When I mean poor ride quality, I don't want to be super bouncy like underdampened. I don't mind a stiff ride, feeling the bumps in the road is nice to me. I'd rather have a responsive ride than a sloppy ride. I even PMed you in particular regarding my suspension questions in the past. I want the lower adjustable mount, rather than lowering my springs and altering the preload. That is what makes my Teins so crappy, the fact that the lower I go the crappier the ride quality goes. If I can shorten the shock body length versus lowering the springs then I would much rather do that. Don't quite call me out on my research jackass .

jdms_eg

d2, ksport and f2 are all made by the same manufactuer in taiwan. where tein, apexi, and buddy club are still made in japan. im not 100% sure about megan but i bet there made in taiwan also. i had a set of the first get of f2's on my integra and liked them but i doubt there as good as quality as say buddy club or apexi. just my 2 cents

Doctor X

The Megans are the same thing as the Apexi ones, so if the Megans are made in Taiwan, so are the Apexi's. I think my Teins are junk so I want to scrap them. I'm trying to talk to F2 about the clarification as to where they get their coilovers, if they are in fact manufactured in Taiwan. I've heard a lot of people say they are the same but I don't know if they actually are. They look similar but the parts that are inside of them could be different (and that's what really matters...).

0ksport

The best way to judge is by actually riding in a car with them installed, I wouldn't believe anyone elses opinions on what they think is the perfect ride. I would go to a F2 dealer/megan dealer, and hopefully a ksport dealer near you and get a ride in a car with them installed first hand. Dont let a 3 year old post sway your opinion either, products and manufacturing processes improve alot over the years.

If you need any help setting up a test drive let me know

Doctor X

I helped my friend install his Ksports into his 6th gen Accord and I took it out for a test drive. It drove pretty well but I need something to compare it to. Nobody that I know in SoCal has the F2s on their 6th gen. I have ridden in a 6th gen with AMR coilovers and that was pretty cool, but no luck with Megans or F2.

0HAMOTORSPORTS

which tein suspension set do you have??? basics/ss/flex/etc...

slammed_93_hatch

what is so great about preload? why are you so hung up on it?

Doctor X

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAMOTORSPORTSUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which tein suspension set do you have??? basics/ss/flex/etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>
SS.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is so great about preload? why are you so hung up on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to utilize a full stroke with the suspension. I don't want to basically have the rod in the middle down halfway all the time no matter where I am. Having the preload would allow me to lower my car without sacrificing the extra shock travel.

0HAMOTORSPORTS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SS.

I want to utilize a full stroke with the suspension. I don't want to basically have the rod in the middle down halfway all the time no matter where I am. Having the preload would allow me to lower my car without sacrificing the extra shock travel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then why not get the tein flex instead??

Doctor X

They don't make that application for my car

98 - 02 Accords get no love.

slammed_93_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SS.

I want to utilize a full stroke with the suspension. I don't want to basically have the rod in the middle down halfway all the time no matter where I am. Having the preload would allow me to lower my car without sacrificing the extra shock travel.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Do you understand the fact that the damper works the SAME no matter were in the stroke it operates?


Do you also understand that by allowing you to lower via the lower mount, the damper itself must have an extremely short stroke?

SloAZSol

I am currently riding on KSport's and I am very satisfied.

I've lowered my car about 3-4 inches and the ride is stiff on full hard dampening settings, but it also bottoms out fairly frequently. (Although that is due to my current ride height)

Overall, I was not disappointed. I should also add that I don't have any experience with other full coilover set-ups to compare them to. Just trying to help.

Doctor X

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Do you understand the fact that the damper works the SAME no matter were in the stroke it operates?


Do you also understand that by allowing you to lower via the lower mount, the damper itself must have an extremely short stroke?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Explain.

ez12a

Doctor X

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ez12a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get G/C extended top hats. Thats how you can lower without sacrificing stroke length.</TD></TR></TABLE>You must not have read my first post.

ez12a

my bad as 93 slammed said where you compress your damper doesnt matter.

your damper doesnt get stiffer the more you compress, nor does the spring unless its progressive.

slammed_93_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Explain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

explain what?

It doesn't matter where in the range of its stroke a damper works, it makes not difference, and does not change how a damper works.

The jdm/lower mount height adjustment must use a short stroke damper because you adjust height from the bottom mount. Which means that to be able to go the damper body and stroke must be short. (when comparing to a koni sport, or a stock unit).

there really isn't anything wrong with short stroke. But don't fool you self into thinking that you aren't operating near the end of the stroke on a JDM/lower mount height adjustment set up.

Doctor X

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

explain what?

It doesn't matter where in the range of its stroke a damper works, it makes not difference, and does not change how a damper works.

The jdm/lower mount height adjustment must use a short stroke damper because you adjust height from the bottom mount. Which means that to be able to go the damper body and stroke must be short. (when comparing to a koni sport, or a stock unit).

there really isn't anything wrong with short stroke. But don't fool you self into thinking that you aren't operating near the end of the stroke on a JDM/lower mount height adjustment set up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't really recall anywhere saying that the damper didn't work past a certain stroke length? I'm lost here.

And what does this mean?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...to be able to go the damper body and stroke must be short.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you know about the stroke length? I'm not trying to be a dick, I just want to learn more.

ez12a

i think hes saying because the lower mount is adjustable on, say, a koni sport strut, the body of the shock itself as well as the rod has to be short, therefore shorter stroke?

slammed_93_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ez12a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think hes saying because the lower mount is adjustable on, say, a koni sport strut, the body of the shock itself as well as the rod has to be short, therefore shorter stroke?</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct.


if you were to meassure the length of a JDM/lower mount adjustable coilover, just the length of the damper you would find that it is A LOT shorter then a koni sport. What this does is inherently give the damper a shorter stroke (in comparision).

I haven't looked at every one of these type of coilover but the ones i have, have extremely limited amount of stroke. Now this isn't always a bad thing but in some cases it can be, mostly just in racing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't really recall anywhere saying that the damper didn't work past a certain stroke length? I'm lost here.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you didn't, but your reasoning behind not wanting the koni/gc illustrated the fact that you thought this.

In all honestly with most setups, you are going to hit the upper A arm before the damper bottoms out.