CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability.
#551
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
What? If the instructions say to reuse the OEM top hats then reuse them. Doesn't matter if they're old units or ones fresh out of the box. They absolutely do NOT recommend you use these with extended top hats but I'm betting there are those that do anyway.
#552
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
oh okay thanks i didnt put aftermarket ones i put them with oem top hats just curious if anyone had done them to their coils
#553
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Okay, so for years I've seen perpetual posting like this:
"What suspension do I get?"
"What's good for my car?"
"Is this suspension setup good?"
"How low can I go on this?"
Well, I'm here to provide you my personal insight based on what I've witnessed on these forums mixed with my personal experience with suspension on my personal car, a 2000 DX hatchback, and my various friends and my brother who used to have a DC2 on a few different setups. This thread is aimed at 92-00 civic owners as the suspensions are all very similar and are what I'm familiar with.
I'd like to cover a few basic things, you can scroll down to read my budget recommendations and brands to avoid.
*****Remember, this is all based on my subjective opinion, if you don't like it that is your prerogative. I'm not posting "fact" when recommending suspension setups, merely suggestions based on my observances over the years I've spent on this forum.*****
1) Suspension is suspension. Suspension capabilities aren't going to vary or be different enough from car to car to really matter for recommendation purposes. We don't need to know that you have a black 1993 VX to help you pick a suspension nearly as much as we need to know what your budget is, your goals for the car, and so on.
2) Money is money. When making purchases for your car consider the length of ownership you intend for the car. If you're like me and don't ever see yourself getting rid of your car, think about the cost of that part over a longer period.
3) I'm telling you right now that my brother and I have both learned the hard and expensive way that buying the more expensive, higher quality product the first time is a lot better than trying to cut corners to do more to your car sooner.
The number one tip I have for you for car part buying is patience. Waiting a few weeks to buy a better part will make you infitiely happier in the long run. Selling a crap part for 1/2 what you paid for it to buy the product you really needed is not fun. I've done it a lot and I'm tired of it. I went from fake wheels, cheap suspension, etc to having volks, recaros, Progress CS-II, Function7, etc because I learned the hard way. It took me a tad longer to save up for it all, but in the end it's 10 kinds of worth it.
Budget recommendations for suspension setups:
1) If you can't afford to spend $600 on your suspension, it is my personal belief that I am doing you justice by telling you to find a new hobby. If you find that much money to be too much for suspension you really need to focus more on paying your bills than dropping your commuter.
2) Adjustable damping means nothing. You really think you know how to program a shock better than a reputable racing component manufacturer? What you "like" isn't necessarily going to be safer or handle better than the appropriate damping matched to a spring rate. So many people buy a product based on how many levels of damping it has.
3) Cheap setups with expensive features. They're pointless and useless for 99.9% of drivers out there looking to have some performance. Cheap coilovers with high end features like camber adjustments, pillow ball mounts, oil reserves, etc are just that. Cheap companies slapping extra junk on an already junk part so teeny-boppers will cream their pants and buy it with their mom's credit card.
4) Don't let the shiny colors sell you a product.
Setups:
(I know there are a bajillion other products to choose from, I'll discuss those at the end.)
NEW <$600
KYB GR2 and Tein S. Techs. You could probably get away with stock shocks for a little while, but how many times do you want to remove your suspension? There really isn't a shock I can think of out there that can handle a much lower drop where the owner can expect longevity. I'm not saying the Koni Orange or the GR2 wouldn't last for a year, but don't expect it to be like Progress, or Koni/GC where many members on these forums have driven on them for DECADES and have no issues.
$600 range
Koni SRT + Spring/coilover sleeve of your choice.
OR
Progress CS-II
Koni- Lifetime warranty. Plain and simple. You can pick from a plethora of springs and coil sleeves that suit your driving needs.
Progress CS-II- I use these currently and enjoy the everliving out of them. best budget suspension period in my mind. 1 year warranty, great company, great product. I've put 20,000 miles on them and 2 autocross seasons and they work like brand new. Available in 250/350/500lb spring rates.
Edit: As a side note Eibach also offers some good options with the pro-kit and sport-line kits for those who just want a moderate drop and to close off some of that wheel gap.
$800 range
Koni/Ground control
That's it. There is no other choice. It is hands down the best suspension for the money. Lifetime warranty on the shock and coil sleeve, pick your rates and easily the most used and most sold performance shock in the world. Koni has drivers all over the country with track records using their products. Anything else in the price range can't be justified over this setup. The only thing that comes close is Tokico Illumina shocks paired with ground control coilovers. Tokico also offers a lifetime warranty and a superior product for a similar price at the koni shock. The emphasis on ground control for use with these shocks is merely the ability for the individual to pick the spring rates best suited for their needs and tastes.
Another consideration would be PIC Apex at $835. Good company, not a lifetime warranty however.
$1000+ range
The only choice in my opinion at this price point is AMR. Small company, lifetime warranty, custom valving and spring rates to suit your needs. B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L
coil-over. About $1200 for honda-tech users.
Iffy companies:
Omni - Reputable, good drag racing stuff, not bad.
Tein - My brother had 2 different tein setups on his car and the SS was the best. The basic was utter garbage. He was astounded by koni/gc when he finally sold his SS for $1100 and got a better suspension setup for $800.
skunk2 - they have made strides recently but they have a reputation for overpriced parts (for what they are) and blow shocks and too stiff spring rates. Their LCAs are notorious for torn bushings, the new model supposedly addresses that. However for $190 you should hit yourself with a hammer for not buying Function7 instead. PIC makes a good affordable LCA that I would trust. They make outstanding bushings.
Buddy Club - Much better stuff out there for the money. They make killer high end stuff, pretty reliable low end stuff, I think better bang for buck is had elsewhere.
Bad companies:
Function&Form - They have made strides, but they appeal to the kiddies who want to slam their cars and don't care about much else. I've seen numerous posts over the years about leaking shocks being shipped to them, or leaking immediately afterwards. 1 year warranty. Edit: If you really just need something shiny, it's probably the best piece of crap on the market. A lot of people have success with them, but consider a lot of people who slam their cars have no regard for ride comfort and likely wouldn't even know if all of their shocks were blown.
Ksport - Can't tell you how many broken/leaking/etc ksport I've seen here. For that kind of money there are much better options.
D2- Comes out of the same factory as ksport. As far as I know they're identical in construction. I've got a whole collection of pictures of broken/blown/leaking pictures of D2 and Ksport.
Good companies:
Koni
Progress
AMR
PIC
Eibach
Tokico
PIC
KW
KYB
H&R
Neuspeed
Hypercoil
Bilstein
____________________
^Bottom line^
****This article is aimed at persons aspiring for functional cars for daily driving/weekend autocross or road racing. I have included tips for people who want to slam their cars in the details.****
In my opinion I believe there are essentially 3 choices for the enthusiast driver:
Progress CS-II@$600
Koni/Ground control@$800
AMR@$1300
I merely believe that the positives outweigh the negatives of similarly priced products and therefore these are the best choices. PIC even offers a $1100 coilover, but when you're spending $1100+ for a suspension wouldn't you spend the extra $100 for the lifetime warranty of the AMR? PIC is a GREAT setup and should definitely be considered. Many people have ridden on these for YEARS with no issues!! Great company and great service.
Thanks, I hope this helps many of you pick your suspension.
-Adam
"What suspension do I get?"
"What's good for my car?"
"Is this suspension setup good?"
"How low can I go on this?"
Well, I'm here to provide you my personal insight based on what I've witnessed on these forums mixed with my personal experience with suspension on my personal car, a 2000 DX hatchback, and my various friends and my brother who used to have a DC2 on a few different setups. This thread is aimed at 92-00 civic owners as the suspensions are all very similar and are what I'm familiar with.
I'd like to cover a few basic things, you can scroll down to read my budget recommendations and brands to avoid.
*****Remember, this is all based on my subjective opinion, if you don't like it that is your prerogative. I'm not posting "fact" when recommending suspension setups, merely suggestions based on my observances over the years I've spent on this forum.*****
1) Suspension is suspension. Suspension capabilities aren't going to vary or be different enough from car to car to really matter for recommendation purposes. We don't need to know that you have a black 1993 VX to help you pick a suspension nearly as much as we need to know what your budget is, your goals for the car, and so on.
2) Money is money. When making purchases for your car consider the length of ownership you intend for the car. If you're like me and don't ever see yourself getting rid of your car, think about the cost of that part over a longer period.
3) I'm telling you right now that my brother and I have both learned the hard and expensive way that buying the more expensive, higher quality product the first time is a lot better than trying to cut corners to do more to your car sooner.
The number one tip I have for you for car part buying is patience. Waiting a few weeks to buy a better part will make you infitiely happier in the long run. Selling a crap part for 1/2 what you paid for it to buy the product you really needed is not fun. I've done it a lot and I'm tired of it. I went from fake wheels, cheap suspension, etc to having volks, recaros, Progress CS-II, Function7, etc because I learned the hard way. It took me a tad longer to save up for it all, but in the end it's 10 kinds of worth it.
Budget recommendations for suspension setups:
1) If you can't afford to spend $600 on your suspension, it is my personal belief that I am doing you justice by telling you to find a new hobby. If you find that much money to be too much for suspension you really need to focus more on paying your bills than dropping your commuter.
2) Adjustable damping means nothing. You really think you know how to program a shock better than a reputable racing component manufacturer? What you "like" isn't necessarily going to be safer or handle better than the appropriate damping matched to a spring rate. So many people buy a product based on how many levels of damping it has.
3) Cheap setups with expensive features. They're pointless and useless for 99.9% of drivers out there looking to have some performance. Cheap coilovers with high end features like camber adjustments, pillow ball mounts, oil reserves, etc are just that. Cheap companies slapping extra junk on an already junk part so teeny-boppers will cream their pants and buy it with their mom's credit card.
4) Don't let the shiny colors sell you a product.
Setups:
(I know there are a bajillion other products to choose from, I'll discuss those at the end.)
NEW <$600
KYB GR2 and Tein S. Techs. You could probably get away with stock shocks for a little while, but how many times do you want to remove your suspension? There really isn't a shock I can think of out there that can handle a much lower drop where the owner can expect longevity. I'm not saying the Koni Orange or the GR2 wouldn't last for a year, but don't expect it to be like Progress, or Koni/GC where many members on these forums have driven on them for DECADES and have no issues.
$600 range
Koni SRT + Spring/coilover sleeve of your choice.
OR
Progress CS-II
Koni- Lifetime warranty. Plain and simple. You can pick from a plethora of springs and coil sleeves that suit your driving needs.
Progress CS-II- I use these currently and enjoy the everliving out of them. best budget suspension period in my mind. 1 year warranty, great company, great product. I've put 20,000 miles on them and 2 autocross seasons and they work like brand new. Available in 250/350/500lb spring rates.
Edit: As a side note Eibach also offers some good options with the pro-kit and sport-line kits for those who just want a moderate drop and to close off some of that wheel gap.
$800 range
Koni/Ground control
That's it. There is no other choice. It is hands down the best suspension for the money. Lifetime warranty on the shock and coil sleeve, pick your rates and easily the most used and most sold performance shock in the world. Koni has drivers all over the country with track records using their products. Anything else in the price range can't be justified over this setup. The only thing that comes close is Tokico Illumina shocks paired with ground control coilovers. Tokico also offers a lifetime warranty and a superior product for a similar price at the koni shock. The emphasis on ground control for use with these shocks is merely the ability for the individual to pick the spring rates best suited for their needs and tastes.
Another consideration would be PIC Apex at $835. Good company, not a lifetime warranty however.
$1000+ range
The only choice in my opinion at this price point is AMR. Small company, lifetime warranty, custom valving and spring rates to suit your needs. B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L
coil-over. About $1200 for honda-tech users.
Iffy companies:
Omni - Reputable, good drag racing stuff, not bad.
Tein - My brother had 2 different tein setups on his car and the SS was the best. The basic was utter garbage. He was astounded by koni/gc when he finally sold his SS for $1100 and got a better suspension setup for $800.
skunk2 - they have made strides recently but they have a reputation for overpriced parts (for what they are) and blow shocks and too stiff spring rates. Their LCAs are notorious for torn bushings, the new model supposedly addresses that. However for $190 you should hit yourself with a hammer for not buying Function7 instead. PIC makes a good affordable LCA that I would trust. They make outstanding bushings.
Buddy Club - Much better stuff out there for the money. They make killer high end stuff, pretty reliable low end stuff, I think better bang for buck is had elsewhere.
Bad companies:
Function&Form - They have made strides, but they appeal to the kiddies who want to slam their cars and don't care about much else. I've seen numerous posts over the years about leaking shocks being shipped to them, or leaking immediately afterwards. 1 year warranty. Edit: If you really just need something shiny, it's probably the best piece of crap on the market. A lot of people have success with them, but consider a lot of people who slam their cars have no regard for ride comfort and likely wouldn't even know if all of their shocks were blown.
Ksport - Can't tell you how many broken/leaking/etc ksport I've seen here. For that kind of money there are much better options.
D2- Comes out of the same factory as ksport. As far as I know they're identical in construction. I've got a whole collection of pictures of broken/blown/leaking pictures of D2 and Ksport.
Good companies:
Koni
Progress
AMR
PIC
Eibach
Tokico
PIC
KW
KYB
H&R
Neuspeed
Hypercoil
Bilstein
____________________
^Bottom line^
****This article is aimed at persons aspiring for functional cars for daily driving/weekend autocross or road racing. I have included tips for people who want to slam their cars in the details.****
In my opinion I believe there are essentially 3 choices for the enthusiast driver:
Progress CS-II@$600
Koni/Ground control@$800
AMR@$1300
I merely believe that the positives outweigh the negatives of similarly priced products and therefore these are the best choices. PIC even offers a $1100 coilover, but when you're spending $1100+ for a suspension wouldn't you spend the extra $100 for the lifetime warranty of the AMR? PIC is a GREAT setup and should definitely be considered. Many people have ridden on these for YEARS with no issues!! Great company and great service.
Thanks, I hope this helps many of you pick your suspension.
-Adam
#554
#555
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Saw this pic Facebook this morning and thought, "Damn, how did the owner go that long with their suspension like that?"
Apparently the setup is over eight years old and the car has over 300,000 miles on it.
Apparently the setup is over eight years old and the car has over 300,000 miles on it.
#559
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Honestly I have no idea how that was possible lol.
Dat lifetime warranty doe.
Dat lifetime warranty doe.
#560
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Choose suspension for trackdays.
While stopped at the Tokico illumina
What are the maximum permissible stiffer springs with illumina?
Bud whether a good option to put coilovers Ground Control FR-14kg/R-10kg?
thanks in advance
While stopped at the Tokico illumina
What are the maximum permissible stiffer springs with illumina?
Bud whether a good option to put coilovers Ground Control FR-14kg/R-10kg?
thanks in advance
#562
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Have a dc2 integra and currently running TODA Fightex DA's for coilovers. Have ITR front sway bar but only vti-r rear sway. How much of a change would I see going to a ITR rear sway or even ASR rear sway? How would it effect under steer or even oversteer for that matter as recently the tail has become a bit slidey. Would the understeer become more predictable and reduce the oversteer?
#563
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Bigger swaybar in rear = more oversteer. If you want more understeer then remove the rear bar altogether. Maybe you need to examine your bushings first.
#566
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
what you say???? tire rack saying lowering springs on stock shocks is okay??????????????????????????????????
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/make-d...lower-your-car
for the lazy,
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/make-d...lower-your-car
for the lazy,
If you've already upgraded to performance tires, the next step to improve the handling of your vehicle is to upgrade to a better suspension set-up. Typically, the most cost-effective way to do this is to replace your vehicle's Original Equipment springs with a set of performance lowering springs. Lowering springs lower your car's center of gravity for better handling, but there are many other benefits to using them. To read more about the benefits of using lowering springs, read "Springs for Spring!"
Vehicles also benefit from an improved sportier appearance when lowered. So what stops many drivers from lowering their car? Here are five common myths that often stand in the way.
Myth 1: If I buy lowering springs, I can't use my original shocks.
Fact: Springs that produce mild lowering of about an inch work well with newer factory shocks. In fact, Eibach's Pro-Kit Spring Set and even their more aggressive Sportline Spring Set are designed around a vehicle's original suspension.
Myth 2: I will need an expensive alignment kit if I install lowering springs on my car.
Fact: According to Eibach, a leader in spring engineering and production, most vehicles do not require an alignment kit after installing a set of lowering springs that result in mild lowering of about an inch.
Myth 3: Lowering my vehicle will hurt the ride quality of the car and make it ride like a truck.
Fact: Some spring sets, like the Eibach Pro-Kit, are designed to maintain much of the car's original suspension travel distance and are only about 15% higher in spring rate to preserve quality.
Myth 4: Lowering springs will sag and settle in, making the car too low to be practical.
Fact: High quality springs from H&R and Eibach are pre-compressed down to full coil bind and tested before they are shipped. They do not sag. In fact, Eibach warranties their springs for one million miles.
Myth 5: Upgrading my vehicle's suspension with lowering springs is expensive.
Fact: The price of lowering a vehicle can be as inexpensive as a set of lowering springs, plus the cost of installation. For current pricing of lowering springs for your vehicle, check out our suspension page.
Vehicles also benefit from an improved sportier appearance when lowered. So what stops many drivers from lowering their car? Here are five common myths that often stand in the way.
Myth 1: If I buy lowering springs, I can't use my original shocks.
Fact: Springs that produce mild lowering of about an inch work well with newer factory shocks. In fact, Eibach's Pro-Kit Spring Set and even their more aggressive Sportline Spring Set are designed around a vehicle's original suspension.
Myth 2: I will need an expensive alignment kit if I install lowering springs on my car.
Fact: According to Eibach, a leader in spring engineering and production, most vehicles do not require an alignment kit after installing a set of lowering springs that result in mild lowering of about an inch.
Myth 3: Lowering my vehicle will hurt the ride quality of the car and make it ride like a truck.
Fact: Some spring sets, like the Eibach Pro-Kit, are designed to maintain much of the car's original suspension travel distance and are only about 15% higher in spring rate to preserve quality.
Myth 4: Lowering springs will sag and settle in, making the car too low to be practical.
Fact: High quality springs from H&R and Eibach are pre-compressed down to full coil bind and tested before they are shipped. They do not sag. In fact, Eibach warranties their springs for one million miles.
Myth 5: Upgrading my vehicle's suspension with lowering springs is expensive.
Fact: The price of lowering a vehicle can be as inexpensive as a set of lowering springs, plus the cost of installation. For current pricing of lowering springs for your vehicle, check out our suspension page.
#567
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
I think the answer is it depends. There are some people who can get a decent amount of miles on lowering springs plus stock shocks, but also probably don't drive the car hard or push it.
I think some OEM factory lowering springs are typically ok to use on factory suspensions.
In my case I am just hoping the ITR springs up front hold up to the stock LS shocks up front for at least a year before I go and buy some konis or bilsteins...
I think some OEM factory lowering springs are typically ok to use on factory suspensions.
In my case I am just hoping the ITR springs up front hold up to the stock LS shocks up front for at least a year before I go and buy some konis or bilsteins...
#568
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
Hi guys,
I am very good with mechanics, but I am totally clueless with suspension. My first car was a 1994 Nissan truck, which I've practically rebuilt from the ground up. But having a Civic, about the only thing in common is that they both have internal combustion engines.
I'm asking for help explaining the suspension on Hondas to me. I don't even know the basics. I've read 8 pages of this thread (as well as others) and I understand that Koni/GC is a good setup, but I don't really know what that means?
My truck has shocks, and I understand that struts are similar in that they are gas-charged and have a piston? But are different in how...they are bigger and handle more load?
And then the spring goes around the strut?
I have a 1995 EG hatch that is about 98% stock, except for a rear disk conversion. I know some of you might want to kill me, but I am not interested in lowering it. Maybe .5"-1.5" at most, I guess. I am not concerned about "closing the wheel gap". I am solely interested in what will make the car handle better and still be comfortable.
I live in an area with VERY crappy roads. I do not want to "beat the ***** up" going over severe bumps, dips, potholes, etc. Also, I admit, I will often have passengers in my car. For example, soon, I will be going to the beach with my girlfriend. Her 3 hot as **** sisters also want to come. I don't care if it breaks my car, they comin' to the beach. But it is not usual that I load my car up like this.
What do spring rates mean? And how do they affect..things? I understand that good handling seems to be the opposite of good ride quality *sad face*
What do all these numbers mean?
I am a hard working 18 year old, and I will cough up the $800 (as much as it hurts) to have a PROPER setup. I am NOT ricer, please do not think this. I want to distance myself from them as much as possible, both figuratively and also because they won't be able to keep up with me in the turns.
I am putting myself out here, looking ignorant as hell, because I can tell some of the members on this forum really know what they are talking about I.E. Libertariat and 98. Based on your explanations and back-up knowledge, if you say to spend ~$800 on the konis/GC, I will. I understand AMRs are God-tier, but I just can't spend like that.
Maybe you can provide a link to educate me, but I would prefer someone like Libertariat explaining it. Thanks guys.
P.S. this is for street ONLY. I drive this car daily. It will never see the track. Not that I don't want to, but that's the reality. There are no tracks near me, and beating senselessly on my car is not my interest.
I am very good with mechanics, but I am totally clueless with suspension. My first car was a 1994 Nissan truck, which I've practically rebuilt from the ground up. But having a Civic, about the only thing in common is that they both have internal combustion engines.
I'm asking for help explaining the suspension on Hondas to me. I don't even know the basics. I've read 8 pages of this thread (as well as others) and I understand that Koni/GC is a good setup, but I don't really know what that means?
My truck has shocks, and I understand that struts are similar in that they are gas-charged and have a piston? But are different in how...they are bigger and handle more load?
And then the spring goes around the strut?
I have a 1995 EG hatch that is about 98% stock, except for a rear disk conversion. I know some of you might want to kill me, but I am not interested in lowering it. Maybe .5"-1.5" at most, I guess. I am not concerned about "closing the wheel gap". I am solely interested in what will make the car handle better and still be comfortable.
I live in an area with VERY crappy roads. I do not want to "beat the ***** up" going over severe bumps, dips, potholes, etc. Also, I admit, I will often have passengers in my car. For example, soon, I will be going to the beach with my girlfriend. Her 3 hot as **** sisters also want to come. I don't care if it breaks my car, they comin' to the beach. But it is not usual that I load my car up like this.
What do spring rates mean? And how do they affect..things? I understand that good handling seems to be the opposite of good ride quality *sad face*
What do all these numbers mean?
I am a hard working 18 year old, and I will cough up the $800 (as much as it hurts) to have a PROPER setup. I am NOT ricer, please do not think this. I want to distance myself from them as much as possible, both figuratively and also because they won't be able to keep up with me in the turns.
I am putting myself out here, looking ignorant as hell, because I can tell some of the members on this forum really know what they are talking about I.E. Libertariat and 98. Based on your explanations and back-up knowledge, if you say to spend ~$800 on the konis/GC, I will. I understand AMRs are God-tier, but I just can't spend like that.
Maybe you can provide a link to educate me, but I would prefer someone like Libertariat explaining it. Thanks guys.
P.S. this is for street ONLY. I drive this car daily. It will never see the track. Not that I don't want to, but that's the reality. There are no tracks near me, and beating senselessly on my car is not my interest.
#570
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
hey im doing a k20z3 swap in an ek coupe im looking for advice on suspension set up do to the new motor and it's weight, how will this alter my susspension? the bump and spring rates? Is there a company that has a coilover suspension kit to recieve the new weight and compensate for it... i hope not to feel like im ridding a rigid frame dump truck. Can is currently down 2" anyways so i understand what its like to live the low life, but im jsut interested in how to keep my ride safe and enjoyable
#571
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
I could be mistaken, but I suspect the K20 isn't terribly heavy when compared to the weight of the old engine plus the front half of the car. Personally, I'd probably just do the swap and see how it rides. If it's not good, it'd be fairly trivial to swap in some stiffer front springs.
Maybe research the difference in engine weights, stack that much weight on the hood, and see if the suspension compresses significantly?
Maybe research the difference in engine weights, stack that much weight on the hood, and see if the suspension compresses significantly?
#572
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Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
If your clueless about suspension then you should have my company build you a set of coilovers. We are a Honda-tech sponsor, and all you have to do is simply place your order via our online order form. http://www.amrengineering.com/order-online
Simply list your modifications, and the goals for your chassis, and we'll get you taken care of. No need to worry about what spring rates or valving to run, leave it to us, and we'll get you all squared away. Please include your screen name as we give a discount to honda-tech members. www.amrengineering.com We setup chassis with Kswap, Jswap, Bswap..you name it..we've done it in the 8+ years we have been in business. No need for any guess work or online opinions, we'll get your project suspension buttoned up, and recommend any other mods to help reach your goals.
Simply list your modifications, and the goals for your chassis, and we'll get you taken care of. No need to worry about what spring rates or valving to run, leave it to us, and we'll get you all squared away. Please include your screen name as we give a discount to honda-tech members. www.amrengineering.com We setup chassis with Kswap, Jswap, Bswap..you name it..we've done it in the 8+ years we have been in business. No need for any guess work or online opinions, we'll get your project suspension buttoned up, and recommend any other mods to help reach your goals.
#573
Honda-Tech Member
Re: CLICK HERE all of you curious about suspension setups and their costs/reliability
are ebay coilovers decent. i can careless about ride quality. i just dont have the money to throw a couple hundred bucks into a name brand set of coilovers. im putting them on my 1989 Civic Hatch Si. Thanks guys