Here are spring rates for common racing products for those of you who are curious:
The P = Progressive, which means the spring rate changes dynamically over the compression.
The L = Linear, where the spring rate remains roughly the same over the compression
96-00 EX factory 165F/80R (P/P)
99-00 Si (EM1) factory 201F/99.8R (P/P)
CTR factory 240/240 (L/P)
APEX'i WS 447F/178R
Eibach ProKit 290F/190R (P/P)
Eibach Sportline 310F/275R (P/P)
Gold-line GL 2.5" drop 320/190 (P/P)
Gold-line GPS 1.25" drop 275/160 (P/P)
Ground Control Coilover 380F/280R (P/P)*
H&R OE 280F/190R (P/P)
H&R Sport 330F/280R (P/P)
JIC FLT-A2s (USDM) 504F/336R (L/L)
Koni RSK Suspension kit 154-205/270 (P/L)
Neuspeed SofSports 260F/150R (P/P)
Neuspeed Sport 280F/180R (P/P)
Neuspeed Race 485F/395R
Omni-Power Adjustable Sleeve Coilover 448F/336R (L/L)*
Omni-Power Street Coilovers 448F/336R (L/L)*
Omni-Power Sport Coilovers 539F/448R (L/L)*
Omni-Power Drag Coilover 810F/810R (L/L)*
Omni-Power 6-Way Damping Coilovers 539/448/336 (L)*
Progress Coilovers 350F/250R (P/P)
Progress Lowering Springs 320F/200R (P/P)
SkunkWerks Coilovers (old) 400F/300R (L/L)
Skunk2 Coilovers (new) 500F/400r (L/L)
Spoon Full Coilovers 300/240
SSR Cup 392/280
SSR S1 448/448
Suspension Techniques 10-15% more then stock (P/P)
Tanabe DF-210 10-15% more then stock
Tanabe NF-210 5-10% more then stock
Tein HT 1119F/448R (L/L)
Tein HG 365F/129-196R (L/P)
Tein SS 448F/224R
Tein Flex 504F/280R
Tein RA/RE/RS 783F/559R (L/L)
Tein S. Tech 235F/140R
Tokico Illumina Kit 250/123 (P/P)
For daily driving comfort on moderate drops I recommend 350-450 Front and 250-350 rear rates.
Anyone who wants to tuck tire you need at least 400lb rates. Any lower you'll easily need 500lb rates.
here's a conversion table for Kg/mm to LB/in
kg/mm to lbs/in
16 = 896
15 = 840
14 = 784
13 = 728
12 = 672
11 = 616
10 = 560
9.0 = 504
8.5 = 476
8.0 = 448
7.5 = 420
7.0 = 392
6.5 = 364
6.0 = 336
5.5 = 308
5.0 = 280
4.5 = 252
4.0 = 224
3.0 = 168
2.0 = 112
****FOR YOU PEOPLE WHO WANT TO SLAM YOUR CARS****
For anyone wanting to slam their cars and have it last, you need to get a good master bushing set, preferably hard rubber. And AT THE LEAST Koni/ground control with front extended top hats and rates of 600lb+ front and 400+lb rear, maybe higher depending on your wheel/offset.
**LOTS of people are messaging me about my wheels and tires.**
Here you go:
Volk CE28's. 16x7 +33, Yokohama S. Drives 205/45/16 11.1lbs
I'm also getting a lot of these:
Originally Posted by stocksucks85
What about KYB shocks?
I'd like to slow/end these with this:
I didn't mention X setup because for the price there are better alternatives for not much more money. This question is going to get very old.
A lot of you don't realize that I don't offer a myriad of options FOR THE SOLE PURPOSE
of making the decision easier.
I for one hold the belief that saving for the better/higher quality item is worth it in the long run. If I don't mention something it's because I feel that it is in YOUR
best interest to wait and buy a tried and true setup that will last your car decades instead of months.
Here's my car as it sits 3/1/2012 (Still using Progress CS-II 350/350 and working great for daily driving/autocross. Progress is amazing.)
There's a few points I've got left that need to be made absolutely clear.
there's a lot going on here:
1) Stock civic rates are ~165lbs front and 80lbs rear and progressive which makes them more comfortable but harder to predict in the turns. The rates we talk about are often doubling, tripling, or more of those rates. Higher rates = stiffer ride. If your shocks don't match well with the spring rates, that's how you get bounciness. [b]There is nothing
you can do you lower/slam your car and get a remotely "stock feel." I get this question all the time, and I'd honestly like to throw a physics textbook at most people who ask it.
2) Lower than me will be tucking tire, I've got no gap in the front and I'm 'barely' tucking tire you could say. I get a LOT of pms about how people want to go lower than me, but don't want to buy a suspension setup that can actually handle the rates required to ride that low and not blow the shocks or bottom out.
3) At my height, I've got a natural camber around 1.8*, I'd LOVE to have 3* of camber, but I'm not willing to go that low and my LCAs will not be at the correct angle for proper suspension geometry. More camber = better grip in the corners and generally a safer handling car.
4) Camber does not kill tires.
How many times do we have to say it? You can safely run 3-4* of camber without premature wear, I've done it, others have done it, simply get your toe aligned within factory spec or run ~.05 out
in the front and ~.03 in
in the rear like I do for autocross. I ran 3* of camber in high school for 30,000 miles and never had any issues with tire wear, toe
is what kills tires. When I change my suspension to AMR, hopefully in June, I'll be raising my car up .5" and changing my front camber from 1.8* -> 3* with a camber kit.
I've been getting a lot of people the last few months asking me about the Koni/GC setup and especially some basic questions regarding picking rates, how coilovers work, what's the difference between a shock/sleeve setup and an integrated setup. Here's my answer. This one in particular is in response to questions evaluating a spring setup vs. a coil sleeve setup.
I would still recommend you get the rates you want and get Koni/GC or even Illumina/GC. If you go with Koni, order them from THMotorsports and tell them which rates you'd like. With the Koni setup you must have Eibach specific Konis. Easiest bet is to just order them together from THMotorsports and you'll know what you're getting.
Any spring will never sit at the right height at all corners due to weight/bushing condition/frame condition. So if having an uneven looking car doesn't bother you (and it should) then no worries.
You can pick your spring rates when you order coilovers that are ordered custom anytime, it has nothing to do with the shock you decide to use. Konis and Illuminas can handle 500-600lb rates before they become under damped and need to be revalved. The "sleeve" you're referring to with konis is that same with any shock/slip on setup. It's a "slip on" coil sleeve as oppose to a threaded shock body with an adjustable collar. The "sleeve" fits onto a perch or circlip on the shock body. There's nothing "bad" about either design if you're curious, nothing less-safe or anything, just different approaches.
Pick one. You don't get both. You have to give up one to get the other. If you're willing to spend a lot of money on a quality custom setup like AMR, you can get a reasonable ride out of what would normally be an abusive suspension. I've got 350F/350R progress suspension that is certainly "tolerable" on the street. My friend just got his AMR setup and I drove it on the street and the autocross track and I would say his MUCH stiffer 550F/650R setup was more comfortable. I've never ridden on a koni/GC setup, but I would hope it's pretty tolerable. I think the harshness from my setup comes from the shortened shock bodies, honestly, so it may be fine with the Konis and stiffer rates. The nice thing about The koni, illumina, or AMR setup using a quality kit like Eibach or Hypercoil like AMR, you can swap out the springs for better or different rates very easily. It's a lot more expensive and more labor intensive to do that with conventional springs. I hope I answered your questions.