Libertariat

Function7 is made in Mesa

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

This is from the BWR website

Blackworks Racing Billet Rear Sub Frame Braces are designed using the latest and state of the art CAD design programs in the industry. Our Sub Frame Brace are manufactured in the USA and made from high quality AL6061-T6 billet aluminum.They will stiffen up your rear end giving your car better steering response and overall rigidity.Each one has a laser engraved logo, and are individually laser serialized number to guarantee authenticity. Includes all the necessary hardware for installation. Applications available for 88-95 Civic/CRX,94-01 Integra, and 96-00 Civic. Available in Raw Billet,Gold,Purple,Red,Green,Pink and Black. As well as other colors coming soon!!


So, you can't call it a Chinese knockoff.

Libertariat

Indeed. And I'm sure ASR is made in the USA as well. We know Function7 is.

rycrkt

I bought a BNIB ASR for $100. (guy needed money) Now I need a rear sway bar. So which one do I get? Please don't try to make me feel like a jerk, I'm just asking!

Libertariat

You can order the swaybar kit from ASR or get an ITR 22mm rear sway also. The ASR kit is designed specifically for the 22mm ITR style swaybar.

rycrkt

i do like the looks of the ASR. My mechanic gave me hell about LCAs i got in a trade and this ASR as poser sh*#! So if I get the swaybar its legit. 22mm ASR rear swaybar, next on my list of stuff I dont really need!

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Why don't you make some money and sell the ASR if you're not going to use it.

rycrkt

No I'm going to eventually buy a sway bar and use the ASR subframe brace. I like taking advantage of people who buy stuff for my car and then sell it to me after they figure out they can't afford to restore and modify their POS!

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

That depends on your suspension setup, tires, weight (and weight distribution), differential, and how you want the car to handle compared to what it is currently doing. If you don't track or autocross, just get whatever is cheap and fulfills your asthetic requirements.

rycrkt

I can't go too cheap. Its my toy so you dont wanna rub turds on your playthings. I have Tanabe Coilovers, Falken 205/50/15s, B16b w/ITR LSD, completely stock interior with stock front swaybar and f & r strut tower bars. I really only W/E drive this car, but want it to be setup better than my friends Boxster!

dinged

Get the ASR 24mm rear sway

Deetz

I just bought an oem ITR sway bar for my setup, why would a person buy the ASR 22mm?

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Just put an Si, GSR, or ITR sway on it then. You could take you car as is, with stock shocks and cheap springs and roll a Boxster easily on track. All it takes is seat time. Throwing parts at your car to make up for a slow driver will only hurt your driving abilities. Do an HPDE before buying any additional parts then decide if you want to throw more money at it or at more HPDE's. I guarantee you'll go for the DE's once you see how much you improved as a driver (thus making your car faster) in one weekend.

NotAJDMFanBoy

Comparing parts purely based on appearance isn't good enough. Some people wouldn't pick up on more subtle aspects of a design, such as sharp corners on inside corners or the grade and size of fasteners or where reinforcements are placed. On something such as these braces, a cheaply made part could easily use an inferior alloy or use metals that are not hardened, where as a better part may use a stronger alloy that's been hardened.

It's like eBay or one of the knockoff companies (we all know them) vs F7 lower control arms. The eBay arms look fine, but they use inferior bushings.

jers99

I thought black works was started by a couple guys from Skunk?




where the heck did you find it for so cheap?

votoms888

I thought that was Blox.

Deetz

I did buy mine new, but got it off a kid who had ordered in an EK model for his EG (which didn't fit of coarse), so i got a deal on it since he couldn't return it to what ever shop he had ordered it from

Libertariat

I'll give you $200 for it

That is a good deal. They're also hard to find used because most people will just buy the cheaper ASR.

After talking to a Function7 rep the function7 is by far a superior product. If I spent $180 on an ASR bar I would immediately feel remorse over not having spent the extra $80 on a function7 bar.

Ultimately the extra price is worth it. A better looking bar with a better design, better metal, and more options for sway-bar compatibility.

*JDM*Ej8*

Only thing i think bout the F7 is the lca choice to match them cuz it dont look right without F7 lcas

Libertariat

I would think most people buying Function7 LCA's don't care much about looks. Many autocrossers and road racers use oem LCAs

*JDM*Ej8*

Not really the bushings dont hold up in stock lcas! and even the inserts dont hold up so Most people go with F7 because of the durabilty in the bushings! and it flows with the subframe

98civdx

That's odd, my friend has been autocrossing on his stock LCA's for 2 years and they are fine. Oh and, they have around 150k on them.

I know they're fine, becuase I just pulled them on saturday.

Libertariat

Indeed. I've never heard of OEM bushings getting torn up from autocross use.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

My CTR (same as ITR) OEM RLCA bushings held up fine for however many miles they originally had on them + 6 years of me tracking and daily driving on them.

Libertariat

OEM parts really can't be beat in terms of reliability and consistency. Even the most expensive aftermarket brands can seldom hold a candle to most OEM honda parts.


Even new LCA's from the dealer are cheaper than the Blox/skunk2 variations I believe.

You can whine about unspring weight all you want. But when you're replacing your skunk2 bushings after 6 months, putting your OEM ones back in, or biting the bullet and buying Function7 LCAs you'll be wishing you'd gone OE or Function7 to begin with.