HKSone

I have a 92EG with front and rear 94Integra GSR disc brake conversion with 90-93 Acura integra RS non-abs brake booster/mastercylinder along with the 4040 proportioning valve. I have been running this setup for two years with no problem. So..one day I remembered I slammed on the brakes pretty hard. My brakes still worked as normal but, then another day when I was checking under the hood and I noticed that I was leaking brake fluid from the proportioning valve. Looks like there is a slight leak from this valve that is plugged with a black rubber.

I took off that rubber with a screw off of my old proportional valve to see if the plug came out. So it came out and theres a bigger hole at the outer end and a smaller hole inside. It is un-threaded about 3mm on smaller end and 7mm on the outer end.

Anyways it is really a pain in the *** to take off all the brake lines just to change the proportioning valve so I thought maybe if i can seal that hole up. What is the purpose of this valve/hole? I believe it is a relief/bleed off valve in case the brake pedal gets applied too hard; to protect the master cylinder or other caliper pistons from damage. I think it would be find without this relief/bleed off valve therefore I want to get it sealed up.

Any ideas to seal up this hole? I have come to these options...

#1 Leave the rubber peice in and JB weld, along with a peice of metal/ aluminum?

#2 Rethread hole to about 8mm-11mm so I can insert a flanged bolt in with a rubber washer for seal. Should I rethread it half way till it meets the smaller end, or re-thread it all the way through?

#3 Get it welded up

What do you guys think? If I get this hole welded up do I still have to remove the proportioning valve?

HKSone

help?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

i've seen this happen 3 times in the entire time I've done my own work and working at the dealer. There is no detailed description, but i know if there is no master cylinder pushrod clearance which should be 0.0mm if i remember correctly (booster pushrod is either too close or touching the master cylinder pushrod) that is when i found the 3 prop valves with their rubber caps off and leaking fluid. Without a description, i would presume that the rubber is there to let you know that if it ever came off there is a lack of clearance between the 2.

Ironically, i was able to detect this through a complaint that the rear brakes were stuck locked. So when i tried to measure clearance, the booster pushrod actually had the master cylinder part engaged. I looked in the engine bay and the cap was off and whenever the brakes were applied the fluid slowly came out. Adjusted the clearance and he got a new prop valve. Done. And it was on a rear disc swapped. He eventually told me he kept turning the end that connects to his pedal.

Sturmcrow

I'm pretty sure some folks on the forum sell those 4040's for $35 shipped. That seems like a pretty good deal to me to know that your valve isn't going to leak all your fluid out at the exact time that you're as far from home as ever.

On the other hand, I love JB Weld, so go for it if you want. Let us know if it works.

HKSone

JB weld does not work at all; seems like the brake fluid eats right through it. I also try to get it welded up with no luck. The welder said the material used on the brake proportional would not melt or would turn black. He instead, tapped threads in and put a stud plug in it. Unfortunately, that did not work too well either. I think I need a rubber seal or a crush washer between the bolt and the proportional valve in order for it to seal.

jr_deleon: seems like the close clearance with the brake booster rod and the master cylinder caused a constant pressure to the brakes and maybe thats why it cause that rubber plug to fail.

sturmcrow: I would rather buy a brand new unit for $100 if I had to replace the unit. The rubber plug on those valves does not look like it will hold up with many miles on the car. I wanted to get it permantly sealed shut so I would not have to deal with it again.

I need some type of washer/seal to get it sandwitched between the stud to the brake proportional valve to sealed the leak. Anyone know where can I get a piece of rubber(material) comparable to rubber brake hoses or an crush washer that does not have an opening in it(solid piece)? I need something that brake fluid would eat right through it.

jcun360

im not sure what you can do to plug it....but in the mean time maybe get a prop valve from pick n pull and put it on for a bit til you find a solution? i picked one up for free today lol.....also thanks for posting this topic up...i have the same problem on my bone stock 92 eg sedan..its leaking for the prop valve too

gabebauman

Sorry to bring back an old thread. But I'm loosing fluid from this area as well. I'll check the prop valve out more closely tonight when I get home from work.

project93hatch

same here.

sextav6

Yep, I have a 93 si and mine just started dropping fluid suddenly. Noticed that the area all around the prop valve is wet. Had someone press the brakes while I was looking at it and you can clearly see fluid come out of the 'weep hole'. Guess its time for a new one.

andyz

BUMP?

How did you end up fixing it?

EG9_808

Get a new prop valve

sextav6

Question: I have seen some people online saying the 92-95 Si's came with a 3040 prop valve, but that a 4040 was a direct replacement, can anyone verify this?

(. )( .)

The prop valve in my 96 integra is leaking also, what causes this? just age or maybe old fluid?

6_Speed

Did you ever get this fixed; if so did you end up replacing the proportioning valve with a new one? I just discovered the same problem on my 97 Accord; it's leaking from the same hole that the OP described in the first post and the rubber stopper is missing. Looks like the going rate on-line for a new valve is about $150.

andyz

you can see my disassembly photos if you want.

http://picasaweb.google.com/11106573...ortioningValve

andyz

I did this replacement, but never did get the flares on the lines to seal properly. I put in some Super-Blue fluid to make it easier to see but still could never get the hex nuts that I stripped to properly seal the connection. I am faced with tearing out the steel lines all the way back to the rear cylinders. An expensive proposition I believe and most mechanics I see online at least want to pull a shortcut and simply re-route a new line outside of the wya of the fuel tank, while you'll need to remove to properly get access to these lines to patch them.

andyz

beware this is a cross balanced valve. The middle spring provides a way to continue the diagonal redundency arrangement in the four-wheel braking system.

andyz

this valve has a failover feature, similar to some master cylinders. The mechical connection between the two brake fluid circuits causes a shift to the other circuit if the primary circuit fails or has low pressure instantaneously.

6_Speed

I ended up replacing both the master cylinder and the proportioning valve since I had to remove the MC anyways to make room to work on the valve. This is not a job I'd like to repeat.

Markb16a

I just got 2 new proportioning valves from the junkyard and they are doing the same thing. Leaking out bad from that black part. I got to find a new one asap. Does this mean that the proportioning valves are bad?

707the89fu

iTrader: (1)

I have the same thing on my
1993 Civic Lx Non Abs rear Drums
I pick up some proportioning valve from Junk yard
end up finding my is 30/30 on the Car (but looks like someone swap it out so i dont think 30/30 is what the car came with reason i say that is all the 10mm screws are hacked up)
so close i found is is 30/40
i installed it and test drove it for 10miles brakes fine
the rubber plug was still there... but it leaking fluid from that area....
what could be the cause of this?....
Pedal to master Cly. clearance is too tight....
defect proportioning valve?...

andyz

bump up for an answer please.

what is the cause of leaking prop valve

Tyson

just happens due to age.

get another one.

ham

Super old thread, but I thought I'd bump it up for the cheap guys like me. I had the same problem. I popped out the rubber, drilled/tapped to take a 1/8" NPT plug and put the plug in. Had someone pressing the brake while drilling/tapping so metal didn't drop in. Been fine since!