Beaks Vs ASR Question
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Beaks Vs ASR Question
Now i'm sure that ASR brace will protect against subframe after SEARCHING.
However, I was wondering if anyone had the beaks kits for a while and haven't seen any subframe damage. I'm tinkering between the two because of cost. Quite frankly, there isn't very many sellers letting the asr/itr sway combo go for less than 340 and i'm just not so sure about shelling out 340 when the beaks combo goes for 220.
Need some feedback to help me make a decision.
BTW: planning to use a 22 or 23mm rear sway on an eg hatch with 10k rear springs
However, I was wondering if anyone had the beaks kits for a while and haven't seen any subframe damage. I'm tinkering between the two because of cost. Quite frankly, there isn't very many sellers letting the asr/itr sway combo go for less than 340 and i'm just not so sure about shelling out 340 when the beaks combo goes for 220.
Need some feedback to help me make a decision.
BTW: planning to use a 22 or 23mm rear sway on an eg hatch with 10k rear springs
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Re: Beaks Vs ASR Question (MyEG6)
Ive had my beaks kit w/ 22mm sway on my EH2 for about a year and a half. Maybe 2 years. Its my DD, its seen 3 HPDE's and counless hours of spirited driving. I was just looking at my sub frame a couple weeks ago with a friend and noticed nothing out of the ordinary.
Greatest thing was, i paid about $50 for the sway and SRK from a friend. Paid about $80 for the lower tie bar.
Greatest thing was, i paid about $50 for the sway and SRK from a friend. Paid about $80 for the lower tie bar.
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Re: Beaks Vs ASR Question (MyEG6)
i don't see how the beaks works, and wouldn't trust my sub frame to it. If your willing to spend 100 or so on spoon "strut bar". spend the extra money and get a comptech
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Re: Beaks Vs ASR Question (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't see how the beaks works, and wouldn't trust my sub frame to it. If your willing to spend 100 or so on spoon "strut bar". spend the extra money and get a comptech</TD></TR></TABLE>
The spoon tower bar was a gift. =P
The spoon tower bar was a gift. =P
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Re: Beaks Vs ASR Question (MyEG6)
I'll assume that you're talking about the 93 DX in your sig? If this is the case then the Beaks will be fine. I've never heard of one EG having a subframe tear out with the Beaks kit. Not one. I've seen several EKs with SF tear out and beaks, but this is because the sway bar mounting location is completely different on the EK vs EG.
In short, get the Beaks.
In short, get the Beaks.
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Re: Beaks Vs ASR Question (MyEG6)
i use the st one, though beaks is OG i would prefer one that connects the two mounting points like st comptech or even asr. this way your not only increasing the mounting area you are stiffening the subframe. the less it flexes the less stress will be on the mounting points.
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#8
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Re: Beaks Vs ASR Question (blinx9900)
I used the Beaks kit with my 22mm ITR rear sway for eight months, four autox events and very spirited street driving on my 98 Civic coupe. When I installed my ASR bar in June...subframe was intact and no signs of damage where present.
I went with ASR for that added peace-of-mind.
I went with ASR for that added peace-of-mind.
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i ran the Beaks with a 22 and Neuspeed tie bar for over 3 years and I pushed it hard! Never had one problem with the subframe and I checked everytime I got under the car.
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Re: (ARACER25)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ARACER25 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran the Beaks with a 22 and Neuspeed tie bar for over 3 years and I pushed it hard! Never had one problem with the subframe and I checked everytime I got under the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On what car? Like I said the EG/DC chassis can handle the 22mm with just the beaks. The EK chassis can't. That's not to say that it won't hold up for a while, or even for years (see gabe's post), but when it rips, it's not cheap to fix, so before i hook my rear bar up again, I'm going to ditch the Beaks for ASR.
Although I have a theory that the problem wit the beaks EK kit is with the small (and weak) harware that comes with the kit. My theory is that the hardware stretches slightly and eventually the mounts move around enlarging the holes in the sheet metal. This causes it to weaken to the point of breaking. I modified my Beaks kit to use larger hardware, but I'm not willing to bet that I'm right when the loss can be $800+.
On what car? Like I said the EG/DC chassis can handle the 22mm with just the beaks. The EK chassis can't. That's not to say that it won't hold up for a while, or even for years (see gabe's post), but when it rips, it's not cheap to fix, so before i hook my rear bar up again, I'm going to ditch the Beaks for ASR.
Although I have a theory that the problem wit the beaks EK kit is with the small (and weak) harware that comes with the kit. My theory is that the hardware stretches slightly and eventually the mounts move around enlarging the holes in the sheet metal. This causes it to weaken to the point of breaking. I modified my Beaks kit to use larger hardware, but I'm not willing to bet that I'm right when the loss can be $800+.
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Re: (nonsense)
Although there are very convincing comments here. I guess, I should be safer than sorry. I've decided to go with either the ASR or Comptech combo. That added peace of mind seems to be worth the extra 100.
#12
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Re: (MyEG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That added peace of mind seems to be worth the extra 100.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (MyEG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Although there are very convincing comments here. I guess, I should be safer than sorry. I've decided to go with either the ASR or Comptech combo. That added peace of mind seems to be worth the extra 100.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually there aren't any convincing comments that say you should go with ASR or Comptech with your EG. If I had an EG I would run beaks only.
Although there are very convincing comments here. I guess, I should be safer than sorry. I've decided to go with either the ASR or Comptech combo. That added peace of mind seems to be worth the extra 100.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually there aren't any convincing comments that say you should go with ASR or Comptech with your EG. If I had an EG I would run beaks only.
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Re: (nonsense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually there aren't any convincing comments that say you should go with ASR or Comptech with your EG. If I had an EG I would run beaks only. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, what are you talking about?
<-- Another old-school Beaks user for who knows how many years of hard track abuse (5-6 I'd guess).
Yeah, what are you talking about?
<-- Another old-school Beaks user for who knows how many years of hard track abuse (5-6 I'd guess).
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Re: (nonsense)
i heard many stories about tear sub frame, but honestly, i don't think EG/EK/DC chassis is that weak. i used to have a EK hatch daily driven for 3 years, went to track once or twice every month, running a 23mm ctr rear sway(no reinforce kit at all), run hard every time i go to track, it worked out good for me until it got stolen.
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Re: (spoon_ek9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard many stories about tear sub frame, but honestly, i don't think EG/EK/DC chassis is that weak. i used to have a EK hatch daily driven for 3 years, went to track once or twice every month, running a 23mm ctr rear sway(no reinforce kit at all), run hard every time i go to track, it worked out good for me until it got stolen. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the eg/dc subframes are fine. its the EK that has a weak rear subframe. It's because they made the rear lca's longer on the ek's and brought the mounting points on the subframe farther in than on the eg/dc subframe, from what i've heard/read.
the eg/dc subframes are fine. its the EK that has a weak rear subframe. It's because they made the rear lca's longer on the ek's and brought the mounting points on the subframe farther in than on the eg/dc subframe, from what i've heard/read.
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Re: (ek gripper)
Alright alright. Ima try the beaks kit. If anything goes wrong, I guess, i'll just sell the car to some old lady that won't use a sway bar I just worried because first off, I have crappy roads. And two, i'm dd with high spring rates.
#18
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Re: (MyEG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright alright. Ima try the beaks kit. If anything goes wrong, I guess, i'll just sell the car to some old lady that won't use a sway bar I just worried because first off, I have crappy roads. And two, i'm dd with high spring rates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW...what a great idea...that way if something goes wrong while she's driving it, crashes and dies...no big deal...because she's old and unsuspecting.
That is a very bad thing to do.
WOW...what a great idea...that way if something goes wrong while she's driving it, crashes and dies...no big deal...because she's old and unsuspecting.
That is a very bad thing to do.
#19
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Re: (MyEG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And two, i'm dd with high spring rates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
High spring rates actually help prevent tear-out, less suspension travel=less stress. I used a Beaks kit on a EM1 (weakest subframes of all) with a Mugen 23mm bar for years, daily driven and tracked on the weekend, with no problems.
High spring rates actually help prevent tear-out, less suspension travel=less stress. I used a Beaks kit on a EM1 (weakest subframes of all) with a Mugen 23mm bar for years, daily driven and tracked on the weekend, with no problems.
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Re: (rmcdaniels)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
High spring rates actually help prevent tear-out, less suspension travel=less stress. I used a Beaks kit on a EM1 (weakest subframes of all) with a Mugen 23mm bar for years, daily driven and tracked on the weekend, with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what were your spring rates, front and rear. Did you have a front bar too?
High spring rates actually help prevent tear-out, less suspension travel=less stress. I used a Beaks kit on a EM1 (weakest subframes of all) with a Mugen 23mm bar for years, daily driven and tracked on the weekend, with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what were your spring rates, front and rear. Did you have a front bar too?
#21
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Re: (nonsense)
It's been a while since I looked them up and I sold the car to JDogg recently so I can't go out and look at it, but I had a Skunk2 Integra coilover kit and the springs were around 550-F, 450-R. I was using a stock 26mm EM1 front bar and the rear bar was actually a Mugen 24mm (said 23mm earlier). I autocrossed and ran it at a number of tracks (VIR, Roebling Road, Rockingham), but only on street tires, mostly on Azenis 615's.
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Re: (rmcdaniels)
I forget. Does a rear tie bar reduce understeer or oversteer? Because, it actually seems helpful to get the ASR brace(if tie bars reduce understeer) since i'm running 12k/10k rates (and testing a 24mm gsr/itr bar up front * only bar I got at the moment, might try a smaler 19 or 22 afterwards). Lower in the rear. I'm still tinkering with rates/bar sizes to get the car to a position that I like.