BBZ

need info. on removal of axle from the trans. got auto. trans it is a 94 Honda accord not sure if it has ABS ? wondering what kind of tools needed to do the job?

Targa250R

You'll need a 36mm socket (preferably attached to a pneumatic impact gun). Other than that you should have a set of 1/2"-drive JIS-sized metric sockets (you'll need the 17mm and the 14mm) and a 1/2"-drive breaker bar. A pry bar (or alternately a very large flathead screwdriver) will help in case the axle is stuck in the diff. Finally, you will need a tool to separate the lower ball joint. Some folks can do this by beating on the LCA with a hammer, but I rarely have luck with this.

1. Jack up the car and set it on jackstands. Make sure it is level and secure.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (14mm IIRC).
4. Separate the ball joint, taking care not to damage the boot or the threads. Some people leave the castle nut threaded onto the end of the stud as a safeguard to avoid "mushrooming" when using certain ball joint tools (as seen here). If you damage the boot, replace the boot and repack the joint with fresh clean grease. If you damage the stud, you will have to replace the entire joint.
5. Un-stake the 36mm axle nut, then remove it. Some air guns are strong enough to remove the nut without un-staking it.
6. Remove the bolt and nut (both 17mm) securing the shock mounting fork to the lower control arm.
7. Swing the knuckle out while holding onto the outer CV joint to remove the axle fro the hub. Sometimes this requires extra "persuasion" by pushing on the end of the axle with a tool.
8. Pull the inner CV joint out of the transmission. Sometimes it will come out easy; other times it will be a real bitch. Use a pry bar if necessary, being careful not to crack the aluminum trans case or damage the axle seal. If the car is not sitting level, some fluid may spill out.
9. Push down on the lower control arm and pull out on the shock fork while wiggling the axle shaft down through the gap you create. You have now removed the axle completely.
10. While the axle is out, replace the axle seal if it has been leaking or if you damaged it while removing the axle. Axle seals are not expensive and can be found at any Honda dealer.
11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Take care not to pull apart the CV joints inside their boots while installing the new axle, because they are a real PITA to fix. If you have to beat on the end of the axle to get it into the trans, hold it straight and hit it lightly. Make sure to install a new cotter pin in the ball joint castle nut. Also make sure to torque the axle nut tight enough (134 lb-ft) and stake it. Clean off any grease you got on the brake rotor with some brake parts cleaner.

Some tips: You will need an axle specific to the '94-97 Accord 4-cylinder with automatic transmission; left and right sides are different. I highly recommend new axles over remanufactured. If your car has ABS, make sure you get a replacement axle with the toothed ABS sensor ring. If your car does not have ABS, you can use either a non-ABS or an ABS axle. Make sure the replacement axle has a new "C-clip" around the splined inner shaft - this clip secures the axle in the differential so it does not pop out while driving.

I think I covered everything.

If you don't have an air gun, you can remove the axle nut with a cheater bar while the wheel is on the ground (you will obviously have to remove the wheel cover or center cap and un-stake the nut first). You may need someone to sit inside and hold the brakes while you're breaking the nut loose.

Good luck.