[FAQ] How to: DIY brake rotor replacement (no ABS)

[AlphaQup]

Although this subject has probably been covered in the past, I thought it would be helpful. Parts you need for the replacement: new rotors (I got some brembo's) Tools needed: 1. Floor jack 2. T-bar to loosen up the lugnuts 3. Big Phillips screwdriver 4. W-D 40 5. #10 & 17mm socket's (wrench too) Step 1 Lift up one, or the whole front end if you have a floor jack. Take off the front wheels with your T-bar. Step 2 Taking off the caliper There is a small 10mm bolt on the bottom end of the caliper. Take that bolt out and swivel the caliper upwards. Now pull the caliper off of the top bolt. It should slide right off. Hook the caliper up like this: Step 3 This is probably the hardest part of the whole procedure. Grab the can of w-d40 and spray the 2 small screws that hold down the rotor. Depending on where you live (weather conditions), these screws can bond to the metal and can be a bitch to take out. Make sure you have the correct size screwdriver so you dont strip the head. But for now, lets leave the screws alone and take this part off: This is where you use the 17mm socket. There are 2 bolts that hold it to the main brake assembly. You can use a breaker bar for more leverage, but I used my T-bar. Just stick the socket wrench into one end of the T-bar and viola, you've got yourself some leverage. Now you can take the 2 small screw's off. After the screws are removed the old rotors should slide off with ease. Here's how it should look: Step 4 Now your ready to slap on the new set of rotors. Screw the screws back on. Now all you have to do is backtrack what you did and assemble the caliper, bolts, etc. back together. And this is how it should come out: Ready to Rock!! Hope that was helpful.

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[silverEH2]

lookin good what kind of pads you using

[AutoXer]

Good info

You should note that the proper tool to remove those two set screws is a manual impact screwdriver. If you don't use one, you can strip the heads of the screw. You don't need to replace them either, they're just there to keep the disk from falling off while the car goes down the assembly line.

Also, if you live in a high corrosion area, the disks may not slide off very easy due to rust. Bang 'em off with a hammer, and lube around the hub with grease to prevent it from happening again.

[AlphaQup]

Originally Posted by silverEH2

lookin good what kind of pads you using

Thanks,
I'm just reusing my old pads (came with car), since they are still fairly new. I'm not worried about pads since they are hella easy to replace.

[deeksmooth]

Originally Posted by AlphaQup

Thanks,
I'm just reusing my old pads (came with car), since they are still fairly new. I'm not worried about pads since they are hella easy to replace.

your old pads have grooved ever so slightly to your old rotors, they will damage your brembos.

[AlphaQup]

Originally Posted by citrEK

your old pads have grooved ever so slightly to your old rotors, they will damage your brembos.

even if my old rotors were not warped what-so-ever? They are working fine to me.
thanks for lookin out tho.

[Danger69]

Like EX_AutoXer said the manual impact screw driver will make taking those rusty screws off a breeze. My buddy did mines and with two hits of the hammer on the impact screw driver it came off so easily.

[AlphaQup]

Originally Posted by Danger69

Like EX_AutoXer said the manual impact screw driver will make taking those rusty screws off a breeze. My buddy did mines and with two hits of the hammer on the impact screw driver it came off so easily.

Yeah, but for people who dont have access to an impact screw driver, a conventional phillips (larger size) + wd40 and a little wrist action will do the trick as well.

BTW: is the impact screw driver an air tool?

[foz]

Originally Posted by AlphaQup

a conventional phillips (larger size) + wd40 and a little wrist action will do the trick as well.

BTW: is the impact screw driver an air tool?

I used a #3 (larger size) and got them off the last three hondas I changed, but that the fourth one back If my friend didn't have the impact driver It could've sucked
(the impact driver ..isn't an air tool - it's a manual one, you nail the back of it with a hammer, and it spins the screw out)

[foz]

Originally Posted by EX_AutoXer

Good info

You don't need to replace them either, they're just there to keep the disk from falling off while the car goes down the assembly line.

is that opinion, rumor, or fact ?

nice basic DIY, btw

[AlphaQup]

Originally Posted by foz

(the impact driver ..isn't an air tool - it's a manual one, you nail the back of it with a hammer, and it spins the screw out)

Cool

[nonsense]

Question: Why do you even do step #2?? I just remove the 17mm bolts and the whole caliper comes off in one piece.

BTW the impact screwdriver is werth 10x it's cost when you cant get the damn screws out. All you need is a cheap one and a hammer!

[skip.two]

good write-up

[AlphaQup]

Originally Posted by nonsense

Question: Why do you even do step #2?? I just remove the 17mm bolts and the whole caliper comes off in one piece.

Hummm haha I never tought of that. But, doing it my way... anybody who wants to replace their pads, can easily kill 2 birds with one stone.

[Turbogixxer]

Originally Posted by foz

is that opinion, rumor, or fact ?

nice basic DIY, btw

fact the wheel will hold the rotors

it is easier to put the caliper on with the rotor not moving all around

[AutoXer]

Originally Posted by nonsense

BTW the impact screwdriver is werth 10x it's cost when you cant get the damn screws out. All you need is a cheap one and a hammer!

Yeah, mine was like $15 at sears. $4 for a 4lb. sledge, and you're good to go. I learned the hard way though (bought the driver after I had already stripped the screws)

[nonsense]

Originally Posted by AlphaQup

Hummm haha I never tought of that. But, doing it my way... anybody who wants to replace their pads, can easily kill 2 birds with one stone.

true, but I still change the pads w/o removing the 10mm bolts if I'm doing the rotors anyway. Although it's probably a bit easier to do it your way.

PS
Here's a pretty good impact driver. It's nice cause it has a grip which makes smashing your hand with the hammer less likely

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...46978

[AlphaQup]

Originally Posted by nonsense

Here's a pretty good impact driver. It's nice cause it has a grip which makes smashing your hand with the hammer less likely

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...46978

Damn that's a great deal. Only $7. Might end up gettin one for future use.

[TedR719]

Originally Posted by nonsense

PS
Here's a pretty good impact driver. It's nice cause it has a grip which makes smashing your hand with the hammer less likely

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...46978

I had that impact screwdriver and it broke the first time I used it, spend the $25 bucks and get a craftsman from sears

[knightnam]

ok i did my rotors today, and i broke the 2 little screws on the rotor. so i dremeled ot off, and i was wondering if it would be ok driving without those screws on the rotors. Can someone help me out?

[soundbomber]

you'll be fine

[knightnam]

thanx for the help

[TeamNextGenChris]

Originally Posted by futuresi

I had that impact screwdriver and it broke the first time I used it, spend the $25 bucks and get a craftsman from sears

i bought one of the Harbor Freight ones like linked to above about a month ago-it was on sale for $2.99,so i figured it'd be nice to have my Snap-On unit at the shop,and the HF here at home in case i ever need it.
i haven't broken the HF one yet,but it just plain does not work!i've tried it on two different front brake jobs(so 8 of the rotor retaining screws),and the screws would not budge.a couple wacks with the Snap-On unit and they come loose no problem.
it seems that the HF has a lot of slop in the assembly,so it doesn't actually transmit much of the force to useful turning motion. *and yes-i did have the HF unit operating in the mode to loosen,not tighten ....also,it wasn't a matter of the Snap-On knocking them loose after the HF did most of the work-both of these cars(mine)did not have the screws over-torqued on the last brake job,so they should come off easily.i've NEVER had to give them more than 2 or 3 wacks with the Snap-On driver to get them loose before.i tried the HF driver for at least a minute on every screw,and it didn't do a thing to any of them.a couple wacks with the Snap-On and they came right off like usual*
save yourself some headache and go to Sears or another reputable place fro an impact screwdriver.
Chris

[JohnEX]

doing a rotor and pad replacement soon on a 2000 civic ex.

i think this write-up would help a lot but i can't see any of the pictures. is this on a website somewhere where the pics work? or can someone point me to any other DIY sites that show how to replace brake rotors?

[longuyen88]

i've been banging my rotors with a hammer for the pass 30 mins and it wouldn't bulge.
any advice guys? I've dremeled off the screws, and no luck with the rotors coming off. this is wack! been at this brake thing for about 3 hrs lol.