Official Vtec Wiring Guide
04-14-2004, 02:33 PM
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Official Vtec Wiring Guide
I have notice that a lot of you guys have questions with running the VTEC wires. You all make it a whole lot harder than what it really is. I am going to give some tips for running the VTEC and making sure that you have a nice clean look when adding the wires.
Things you need:
* Vtec 5spd ecu
* A cut end of any Honda ECU wiring harness( you can get this from a junked car or a junk yard, you will need the pins out of it. Remember to cut off leaving as much wire as possible.)
* 20 or 18 gauge electrical wire(DO NOT USE SPEAKER WIRE)
* Butt connectors or your fav. type of wire connectors(soldering is better)
* Electrical tape
* Black wiring looms
* And of course a vtec h22
Ok here we go. I will start with a diagram of the P13 ecu. If you take the ecu and look at the pins as if it were in the car, say you lay it on a table with the top facing up and you look as the pins, the "A" pin numbers will start on the very right, Example:
Top side w/ the sticker
---------------D6-------------------------------------A4---
l --------------\/---- -------------- -------------------\/-- l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l Front of Car
l -------------------- -------------- ----------------------- l
-------------------------------------------------------------
Floorboard side
(Hope that turns out right.)
A4 = Vtec solenoid------------------Large pin
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch-----Small pin
Pinning the ECU Wiring Harness
On any Honda ECU harness, the pins are removable.
1.) Now take that end of the ECU wiring harness that you got. If you notice along the side where the wires go into the plug, there is a clip, one clip on either side of the plug. Unclip the clip ( you may have to use a screw driver, it can be a pain). If you look into the ECU side of the plug, you will noticed that there are 2 different sizes of the pins. A larger one and a smaller one. You will need one of each. With a pair of pliers, take hold of the wire sticking out of the plug that is connected to the pin that you need and pull that pin out. It shouldn't be very hard and the wire should not pull out of the pin. If the wire pulls out of the pin, try pulling another wire with the same pin. That is why you get the whole plug of the ECU harness, just in case something messes up.
2.) Once you get your 2 pins out, you are ready to pin the ECU harness in your car. There are 3 harness ends that go into the ECU. The top harness (which is forward most plug when they are plugged into the ecu) houses pin A4. By looking at the ECU Diagram above, you can see which pin A4 is in the harness. The large pin will be put into the open hole in the harness. Add the pin into the ECU harness the same way you took it out. Open the clip and push the pin into the hole. Before you put then pin into the hole, make sure that it is turned the correct way, just look at the way the other pins are in. Once you figure that out..push it in all the way until it looks identical to all the other pins. Repeat this step for pinning D6 on the harness. It will be located in the bottom most harness of the ECU plugs (see the diagram above for the exact pin location) This hole in the ECU harness will use the smaller pin.
Running and connecting the wires.
1.) RUN ONLY ONE WIRE AT A TIME SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION ABOUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHAT.
Start by running one wire through the firewall in any place you would like to run it through at. I ran mine through a rubber plug just above the ECU. You can drill through the firewall, whatever you want to do to get the wires into the Engine bay.
Now that one wire is run, go ahead and strip the rubber coating off of both ends of the wire (it is a good idea to do this after the wiring is run so that you do not make a mess out of the ends of wire). Strip the end of the wire to the A4 pin. Connect the end of the pin wire and the wire that you ran through the firewall. Do this using butt connectors, solder and shrink-wrap, etc... I would prefer soldering it to make the best connection. (If you use butt connectors, be sure to wrap it with tape or strink wrap so that the wiring does not corrode.)
The Vtec solenoid has only one wire coming out of it. This wire is green/yellow. Connect the end of the first wire that you ran through the firewall and connect it to this wire whether it be by a plug harness, soldering, or butt connectors.
2.) Once this wire is run, go a head and repeat the same process with running the wire through the firewall and connecting it to the pin D6 on the ECU harness. Now you will connect the end of the second wire ran into the engine bay to the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch. There will be 2 wires coming out the Oil Pressure Switch. A light blue wire and a black wire. The light blue of course being the hot (+) wire and the black being ground (-) wire. Connect the wire ran through the firewall to the blue (+) wire on the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch using your desired way of connecting. Now you are left with the Black (-) wire. You will need to add some wire onto that wire to extend it so that it may be grounded off in your desired spot. Make sure the ground is good or else the system will not work. Use the valve cover, chassis of the car(scrape off any paint), etc... Just make sure it is good.
Starting everything up
Before cleaning the wires up, crank the car and run it. Make sure that Vtec engages around 5200 rpms. It may be quiet. If you are running past 6500 rpms, then Vtec is engaging. If vtec is not working properly the ECU will redline at 6500 rpms, just as it would if you took off while the motor was still cold. If everything works good, then go a head and hide the wiring. I decided to take some wire loom and put the wires in the loom. Then use black electrical tape to tape over the loom making it look like the rest of the factory looming.
There you have it. A full description of running the wires for the VTEC system. It is not difficult and takes time and patience. MAKE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED BEFORE YOU EVER TOUCH THE WIRING SYSTEM IN A CAR. If there is anything missing that you feel needs to be added, feel free to PM me and so that I can make edits, I wrote this up kind of quick!! Thanks techs! ENJOY!!
*I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOUR VEHICLE. IF YOU HAVE FEAR THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, DO NOT DO IT. GET HELP. PM ME FOR DETAILED QUESTIONS.*
Things you need:
* Vtec 5spd ecu
* A cut end of any Honda ECU wiring harness( you can get this from a junked car or a junk yard, you will need the pins out of it. Remember to cut off leaving as much wire as possible.)
* 20 or 18 gauge electrical wire(DO NOT USE SPEAKER WIRE)
* Butt connectors or your fav. type of wire connectors(soldering is better)
* Electrical tape
* Black wiring looms
* And of course a vtec h22
Ok here we go. I will start with a diagram of the P13 ecu. If you take the ecu and look at the pins as if it were in the car, say you lay it on a table with the top facing up and you look as the pins, the "A" pin numbers will start on the very right, Example:
Top side w/ the sticker
---------------D6-------------------------------------A4---
l --------------\/---- -------------- -------------------\/-- l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l Front of Car
l -------------------- -------------- ----------------------- l
-------------------------------------------------------------
Floorboard side
(Hope that turns out right.)
A4 = Vtec solenoid------------------Large pin
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch-----Small pin
Pinning the ECU Wiring Harness
On any Honda ECU harness, the pins are removable.
1.) Now take that end of the ECU wiring harness that you got. If you notice along the side where the wires go into the plug, there is a clip, one clip on either side of the plug. Unclip the clip ( you may have to use a screw driver, it can be a pain). If you look into the ECU side of the plug, you will noticed that there are 2 different sizes of the pins. A larger one and a smaller one. You will need one of each. With a pair of pliers, take hold of the wire sticking out of the plug that is connected to the pin that you need and pull that pin out. It shouldn't be very hard and the wire should not pull out of the pin. If the wire pulls out of the pin, try pulling another wire with the same pin. That is why you get the whole plug of the ECU harness, just in case something messes up.
2.) Once you get your 2 pins out, you are ready to pin the ECU harness in your car. There are 3 harness ends that go into the ECU. The top harness (which is forward most plug when they are plugged into the ecu) houses pin A4. By looking at the ECU Diagram above, you can see which pin A4 is in the harness. The large pin will be put into the open hole in the harness. Add the pin into the ECU harness the same way you took it out. Open the clip and push the pin into the hole. Before you put then pin into the hole, make sure that it is turned the correct way, just look at the way the other pins are in. Once you figure that out..push it in all the way until it looks identical to all the other pins. Repeat this step for pinning D6 on the harness. It will be located in the bottom most harness of the ECU plugs (see the diagram above for the exact pin location) This hole in the ECU harness will use the smaller pin.
Running and connecting the wires.
1.) RUN ONLY ONE WIRE AT A TIME SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION ABOUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHAT.
Start by running one wire through the firewall in any place you would like to run it through at. I ran mine through a rubber plug just above the ECU. You can drill through the firewall, whatever you want to do to get the wires into the Engine bay.
Now that one wire is run, go ahead and strip the rubber coating off of both ends of the wire (it is a good idea to do this after the wiring is run so that you do not make a mess out of the ends of wire). Strip the end of the wire to the A4 pin. Connect the end of the pin wire and the wire that you ran through the firewall. Do this using butt connectors, solder and shrink-wrap, etc... I would prefer soldering it to make the best connection. (If you use butt connectors, be sure to wrap it with tape or strink wrap so that the wiring does not corrode.)
The Vtec solenoid has only one wire coming out of it. This wire is green/yellow. Connect the end of the first wire that you ran through the firewall and connect it to this wire whether it be by a plug harness, soldering, or butt connectors.
2.) Once this wire is run, go a head and repeat the same process with running the wire through the firewall and connecting it to the pin D6 on the ECU harness. Now you will connect the end of the second wire ran into the engine bay to the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch. There will be 2 wires coming out the Oil Pressure Switch. A light blue wire and a black wire. The light blue of course being the hot (+) wire and the black being ground (-) wire. Connect the wire ran through the firewall to the blue (+) wire on the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch using your desired way of connecting. Now you are left with the Black (-) wire. You will need to add some wire onto that wire to extend it so that it may be grounded off in your desired spot. Make sure the ground is good or else the system will not work. Use the valve cover, chassis of the car(scrape off any paint), etc... Just make sure it is good.
Starting everything up
Before cleaning the wires up, crank the car and run it. Make sure that Vtec engages around 5200 rpms. It may be quiet. If you are running past 6500 rpms, then Vtec is engaging. If vtec is not working properly the ECU will redline at 6500 rpms, just as it would if you took off while the motor was still cold. If everything works good, then go a head and hide the wiring. I decided to take some wire loom and put the wires in the loom. Then use black electrical tape to tape over the loom making it look like the rest of the factory looming.
There you have it. A full description of running the wires for the VTEC system. It is not difficult and takes time and patience. MAKE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED BEFORE YOU EVER TOUCH THE WIRING SYSTEM IN A CAR. If there is anything missing that you feel needs to be added, feel free to PM me and so that I can make edits, I wrote this up kind of quick!! Thanks techs! ENJOY!!
*I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOUR VEHICLE. IF YOU HAVE FEAR THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, DO NOT DO IT. GET HELP. PM ME FOR DETAILED QUESTIONS.*
04-14-2004, 08:31 PM
#5
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (jdmlude_dude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Butt connectors</TD></TR></TABLE>
not for ECU related wiring...
soilder and heatshrink are the way to go. Electrical tape should be of GOOD quality because the cheap crap unwraps itself with the heat of the interior/engine bay very easily.
Excelent write up overall though! But I'm going to add to this because i know how intimidating it was the first time i pinned a harness...
It's easy to count pins from the wrong end if your new to this.. i always look for the BRN wire on the A harness to reference the no. 1 pin. (count pins in a 'z' patteren - NOT like you count the pins on a chip.)
(OBD1)
BRN = A1
YEL = A2
RED = A3
VTEC SOL = A4
LT BLU = A5
A4 is right underneath the RED wire
D6 is right underneath a blank hole and right next to a BRN (or BRN/WHT) wire.
because there are civic guys reading this - it will now be easy for them to grab a wiring diagram and wire in the EGR.
ECU pins are tricky to pull out without damaging them. The first time i did it i sawed a clip in half to see how the pin was held in. I find the easiest way to do it is that push the wire in and to use a safety pin to bend the tab so the pin slides out. Or you can just call up your nerdy friend and he can do it for you..
OHH.. and lets not forget about the IAB wires.. it is pin A17 - the other wire connects to a BLK yellow wire (triggered GND?) there is an issue with this depending if it's JDM?? i'm sure someone can talk about it?
bump!
not for ECU related wiring...
soilder and heatshrink are the way to go. Electrical tape should be of GOOD quality because the cheap crap unwraps itself with the heat of the interior/engine bay very easily.Excelent write up overall though! But I'm going to add to this because i know how intimidating it was the first time i pinned a harness...
It's easy to count pins from the wrong end if your new to this.. i always look for the BRN wire on the A harness to reference the no. 1 pin. (count pins in a 'z' patteren - NOT like you count the pins on a chip.)
(OBD1)
BRN = A1
YEL = A2
RED = A3
VTEC SOL = A4
LT BLU = A5
A4 is right underneath the RED wire
D6 is right underneath a blank hole and right next to a BRN (or BRN/WHT) wire.
because there are civic guys reading this - it will now be easy for them to grab a wiring diagram and wire in the EGR.
ECU pins are tricky to pull out without damaging them. The first time i did it i sawed a clip in half to see how the pin was held in. I find the easiest way to do it is that push the wire in and to use a safety pin to bend the tab so the pin slides out. Or you can just call up your nerdy friend and he can do it for you..
OHH.. and lets not forget about the IAB wires.. it is pin A17 - the other wire connects to a BLK yellow wire (triggered GND?) there is an issue with this depending if it's JDM?? i'm sure someone can talk about it?
bump!
04-14-2004, 10:17 PM
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (2point2)
I cut a harness in half too the first time!! lol 
And yes, butt connectors do suck, but that is all some people use! Cheapo's!
And yes, butt connectors do suck, but that is all some people use! Cheapo's!
04-15-2004, 05:14 AM
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (jdmlude_dude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cut a harness in half too the first time!! lol And yes, butt connectors do suck, but that is all some people use! Cheapo's!</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, those buggers are hard to get out if you don't know what your aiming for. A bench grinder works good to grind the plastic down to fishout a pin - chances are you'll ruin it so it's only good to see whats up.
No one has comments about the IAB?
And yes, butt connectors do suck, but that is all some people use! Cheapo's!</TD></TR></TABLE>haha, those buggers are hard to get out if you don't know what your aiming for. A bench grinder works good to grind the plastic down to fishout a pin - chances are you'll ruin it so it's only good to see whats up.
No one has comments about the IAB?
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04-15-2004, 09:28 PM
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (jdmlude_dude)
your advice was great ... i finally ran my v-tec....the thing that throws me off is that theres a blue wire already attach on d6 i don't know what it does but i just top on it. all i know is that i don't have engine check lite anymore and my v-tec kicks in. do u know what that blue wire do? thanks again for ur help!!!!
04-16-2004, 06:42 AM
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (shadowludeJDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadowludeJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your advice was great ... i finally ran my v-tec....the thing that throws me off is that theres a blue wire already attach on d6 i don't know what it does but i just top on it. all i know is that i don't have engine check lite anymore and my v-tec kicks in. do u know what that blue wire do? thanks again for ur help!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Some preludes are already run with Vtec. You have have to extend wiring then. But hey, if it is working...who cares!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Some preludes are already run with Vtec. You have have to extend wiring then. But hey, if it is working...who cares!
01-13-2006, 01:53 PM
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (jdmlude_dude)
I have a 1988 Honda CRX HF and I'm in the process of swaping the motor to a 92-95 Honda Civic D15B VTech Engine. The HF is not VTech so I need help with wiring the VTech. You basically explained it, but I don't understand what to do about the ECU because the HF ECU isn't VTech. Will the HF wiring harness plug into the VTech ECU or not. What do I do if it doesn't?
02-13-2006, 04:20 PM
#16
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Re: Official Vtec Wiring Guide (Timothy)
my Vtec solenoid has 2 wires
ones red and yellow
and the other is green and black.
what one is the hot one and what do i do with the other wire? do i just ground it like you do with the vtec oil pressure
ones red and yellow
and the other is green and black.
what one is the hot one and what do i do with the other wire? do i just ground it like you do with the vtec oil pressure
02-20-2006, 04:56 PM
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i got a 97 gsr swap in a 92 cx, I believe it has the orginal harness becuase its Obd1. would you happen to know where I could get a diagram of the harness with the
A4 = Vtec solenoid------------------Large pin
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch-----Small pin
location? so I know where to install the pins.
Thanks.
A4 = Vtec solenoid------------------Large pin
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch-----Small pin
location? so I know where to install the pins.
Thanks.
02-20-2006, 05:05 PM
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I just found this posting.... some guy on their said the cx model has vtech wire under the dash.... where would this be? what color? could someone help me on this. thanks
http://www.dragva.com/forums/p...13619
http://www.dragva.com/forums/p...13619
02-27-2006, 07:32 AM
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could someone send me the complete wiring to wire up an h22a in a 92 accord non-vtec? send to griffin_26@hotmail.com I need the wiring for everything please. Thanks
08-25-2006, 08:37 AM
#23
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Re: (lol_on_v8s)
I'll add this to the faq.
Do not use butt connectors... they are the worst thing you can use.
You can access all the pinouts here:
http://forum.aempower.com/foru...370.0
Stop bumping this thread if you do not have any other tech info to add to it.
Do not use butt connectors... they are the worst thing you can use.
You can access all the pinouts here:
http://forum.aempower.com/foru...370.0
Stop bumping this thread if you do not have any other tech info to add to it.
08-25-2006, 12:16 PM
#25
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Re: (syntax.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syntax. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">think that heat shrink butt connectors covered in heat shrink tubing would last? or are you religious about soldering wires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am religious about soldering wires. Over time the heat, grease, and dirt will make butt connectors go to ****. I've seen TOO many cars come in that use butt connectors that come apart with an easy tug.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I am religious about soldering wires. Over time the heat, grease, and dirt will make butt connectors go to ****. I've seen TOO many cars come in that use butt connectors that come apart with an easy tug.