Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

how much boost are you leaving with off the line?

DA 4 Lyfe

10-12psi

1992Si

Nice job, Have fun with it.

DA 4 Lyfe

Thanks. Hoping to lower my ET's in a couple weeks on race gas

blackeg

do they have c16 at the valley? i know they had c12 but i havent been up there in a while

DA 4 Lyfe

Yessir. $13.20 a gallon. I've been using it for the last 4 years and its always been legit. They have 5 gallons pails, but I always get it right from the drum

blackeg

cool thank you. good luck with the retune and get back out on the track! maybe ill run into you up there or somewhere around the capital district over the summer

DA 4 Lyfe

Thank you sir! I'm sure we will cross paths at one point or another. As long as everything goes well on the dyno I should be running Wednesday June 18th

DA 4 Lyfe

Update from yesterday. Made 675whp on 25psi with C16 race gas. When Miller turned it up anything higher then 25psi the car would just start to misfire. The plugs were originally at .025 then tried .020 then .12 still kept doing the same thing.

I'm guessing maybe bad cap and rotor? I currently have a M&W Pro 10 with Crane coil, OEM distributor & BKR8E plugs.

Other then that I'm a very happy customer. Anyone looking for a tune Chris Miller is the man for it

1992Si

They say Etown is about 3th's quicker on the same set up.

DA 4 Lyfe

I have heard that also. I only plan to run at Lebanon valley until I get a trailer

blackeg

honestly i always thought etown was quicker, especially since it was usually prepped better and i could come out of the hole a bit harder, but last year changed my perception of that.

ran 11.3@128 at the valley last april. off the trailer(ok tow dolly lol) at etown the next weekend the sat. of spring nationals it made the exact same pass on same boost/fuel before my 3rd gear started locking me out on my 2nd and 3rd pass. just some food for thought

DA 4 Lyfe

I've always had good luck at LVD. I can't complain. I'm taking the car to the track on Wednesday on C16 hoping for 10.2 10.3 at 145-148MPH

DA 4 Lyfe

So I found out why the car was misfiring anything past 25psi on the dyno. My old MSD cap is 3 years old and had the little piece where the wire goes to on the cap inside break apart and bouncing around inside causing damage. My question is would you guys run it the way it is and just put the new MSD cap and rotor back on and give it a shot?

DA 4 Lyfe

Another angle. Just not sure if I should change this part or not?

phaphon

Nice integra makes me miss mines . And congrats on your time .

DA 4 Lyfe

Thanks. I love the DA but it's a heavy bastard. I'm hoping to get back to the track real soon on C16

phaphon

Yes it's heavy but your not doing bad . Can't wait to go for tens again. The weight is why I switched chassis also

DA 4 Lyfe

Went to the track last night on C16.

1st gear: 11psi
2nd gear: 19-20psi
3rd and 4th gear 25psi

I was having issues with trying to figure out what to launch at, psi in the tires and how much boost to put in 1st and 2nd. My short track is lacking for sure. I was dead hooking first at 11psi and 19-20 in 2nd. Next time out I will be going to 15psi in 1st and 26-27psi in 2nd, and 32-35psi in 3rd & 4th. My car has at least a 10.4 10.5 at the same boost level when she went 10.6 if I was able to get more then 2 runs in before getting the boot for not having a 9 second LIC.

DA 4 Lyfe

The slip. Car number 803

blackeg

nice man nicely done! thats a fast car for the valley especially that trap speed. i bet all the rednecks never saw it coming lol.

crank that boost up in the lower gears it will help. im sure you will only improve on it from there. glad you got it all straightened out and rocking out. i hope to see the car in action soon

DA 4 Lyfe

I plan to do around 15 in 1st, 25-27 in 2nd (depending on what hooks) 3rd and 4th around 30-33

I ran into a few (not sure if they are real issues yet or not) with the battery light coming on after a WOT pull and the oil pressure dropping to 0 with the clutch pressed in. As soon as I let the clutch out both the battery light and oil pressure goes back to normal. However I did notice that the car won't idle unless I'm giving it gas even when its fully warmed up 170-185 water temps

tepid1

Oil pressure is dropping because the oil is sloshing around after the pull. It's actually starving the engine. This could be pretty bad. What oil pan are you using?

Look at the logs. When you clutch in, does the RPM go real low, like almost stall? If it goes into an almost stall state that can be why the light comes on. It could also be that the clutch is causing the crank to rub into the thrust bearing causing it to head into the stall zone.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

If it is dropping that much in RPM it should be adjusted mechnically on the throttlebody to bump up the idle rpm and then compensate with the idle motor to idle high when the car is moving. I keep my car idle 1500 ish I'd rather my oil pressure to stay high

DA 4 Lyfe

OEM oil pan that I ordered from Synapse. I have had this issue before (the car stalling at idle without my foot on the gas pedal) My buddy played around with the throttle body screw allowing it to idle perfect again at 1200RPM. I just noticed the battery light and oil pressure drop with the clutch in but both go to normal when its out.

How do I fix the oil sloshing around? I checked the oil each pass after it sat for awhile and it was at perfect level. The throttle body does stick on me when I press the gas it acts hesitates for a second then bucks real hard once I start moving again