d1ck

I've got a question about which brake setup I should use, I'm hoping someone can offer me some good advice. First a little background:

The car:
1995 Integra LS
B20Vtec w/ CP Pistons, H Beam Rods
B16a Gearset w/ Type R LSD
Hot Bits DT1 Coilovers
Wilwood 12.2" x .81" Front Brakes w/ DTC-30
2002? Civic Si / RSX Rear Brakes (10.1" I believe) w/ Hawk Blue

Lots of other race goodies which aren't that relevant to my post

I've been running the car in Targa Newfoundland for the past 2 years, and again this year in Sept.

2012:
Ran current setup with Hawk HP+. Pads weren't up to the task, faded.

2013:
Ran current setup exactly as described above.

2014: (Future)
I want to change from 17" wheels to 15". There aren't any good tires available in the size required in 17", and the wheels I have are all cracked or bent. I need more sidewall and cheaper tires.

My question is:
Will the ITR front brakes with an agressive pad (Maybe DTC-70?) provide similar fade resistance to the Wilwood setup with DTC-30?

joel n

We run a 95 delsol VTEC at AMP in Nova Scotia, currently running stock Brakes, with super blue brake fluid and hawk DTC 60 in the front and DTC 30 rear. Had a B17A1 motor that might have made 135WHP. 4.7 fd and a good diff. Car weights 2480LBS race trim. We bleed the brakes every second event and pads last 2.5 events. We have never had brake fade with this setup. Last year we race the last 2 events and did the 3 hour enduro, just a general check over on the brakes. Had no problems at all.

This year we added a B18B from a 96 type r and might try the DTC-70 pads. We have enough pads to do May race weekend but will need pads for June. So I can give you a idea what to expect from them then.

Not sure wear you live but We could always use another honda at the track.

scottdh20

you can check into the wildwood dpha kit. I haven't used it but have heard good things about it. its made to fit on the stock 10" rotor, with 4 pistons should help you stop just as well. they are also designed to fit specifically under oem Honda 15" wheels, so I would assume most 15" wheels on the market will work

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILWOOD-DPHA-BRAKE-CALIPER-KIT-HONDA-CIVIC-ACURA-INTEGRA-FIT15-RIMS-140-13029R-/231129151761?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d05ef911&vxp=mtr

Matt_EH3

I know someone who tried these on his race car and was not really satisfied. I don't know if he got an early batch and if it got fixed later, but the caliper + pads were too narrow for the disk when he bought them and the brakes would fade due to heat build up.

He had to remove pad material at a machine shop for them to work properly. Even then, the braking power and endurance was not equivalent to ITR brakes.

He had changed from the ITR setup to these and just went back to ITR brakes mid-season.

As I said, that's one experience. Maybe other people have them and have had better luck.

d1ck

I was looking at those pads actually, however I think the minimum operating temperature is too high for my application. There are sometimes extended periods between braking so I need a pad that will work inside a very broad temperature range.

I've just got off the phone with Brian at Fastbrakes and we arrived at a workable solution I think. He suggested the DTC-30 (100F - 1200F Range) with ITR front brakes and a set of brake cooling ducts. Can anyone comment on this setup?

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Search the brake forum, and this one too about different set ups.
The willwood/stop tech big brake deals are over kill, especially when honda has lots in its product line that will bolt up and provide just asgood if not better stopping power.
FYI ITR also translates into Odessey minivan and Legend etc....

Hawk DTC-60's have always been good for me on front no issues, blues on the rear.
I have no ducting.. no need for it.
There is a thread on ducting too.

joel n

I was really surprized how much brake we have on a warm-up lap. I would almost say I would be okay doing a autocross on them. but i might have to eat my words there. lol. you be happy with the DTC-30s. They are on the rear but seem very nice.

Also i wouldnt worry about brake ducts. We dont have any and never had a single problem. We dont run a high speed track but there is no cool down areas for brakes. So its a constant beating. But at the same time, there not going to hurt you.

d1ck

What is your setup?

What is your setup?

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Legend front SI rear.

joel n

It's all stock 95 Del Sol VTEC brakes. Not sure what they mix with. We always get the wrong stuff for it for some reason, but we have great luck since we started buying pads from Perry Auto in Quebec. Rotors are brembo blanks. Full season on them. No pulsation or cracking. No brakes ducts. DTC60 front and DTC30 rear. Last year we had a basicly stock B17A1, so give or take 130WHP. On a 2480lbs car.

d1ck

Thanks for the insight guys. I've been wearing out google trying to come up with the best possible setup to fit inside 15" wheels using oem parts and it seems like I'm stuck with 23mm thick rotors. Honda does make a 282 x 25 mm rotor that's 4 x 114.3 but it's EU market only, so that's out.

I can get the ITR calipers pretty cheap at a local shop and then I'll grab the redrilled rotors from fastbrakes I think.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Mini rotors will fit. 11 inches 35 bux from autozone.
Lifetime warranty.. wear them out and get them replaced!

Garage_Spec

Not to thread jack but how are you keeping the mini rotors centered on the hub? I'm going that route soon as my brakes will need some love.

SCoupe 5sp

That won't be a problem. I have been driving the ever living **** out of the Mini Cooper rotors in the exact config of Dirty19. There is no "centering" to do. I get asked this all the time. Anyone who looks at them immediately gets it. They are centered. They are perfectly centered on my hub. There has not been and never will be a centering question in my mind. They go on, I bolt the well to the studs and everything is locked. The Mini Cooper rotors are perfectly fine. 1999 Civic Si. HC2 more or less.

Kozy.

This might be of use to you if you want to know how different brake setups balance out on your car. All written for Hondas with common setups listed in drop down menus:

http://www.blackartdynamics.com/Brak...IndexHonda.php

hufflepuff

HELP! I've cracked two rotors in two events. ITR front setup with Mini cooper rotors from both autozone and advance autoparts. I cracked a rotor from each store. Running time trials, which are only 15 minute sessions. DTC-60 front pads, 2300# race weight, almost stock B18A1, 205/50/15 Nitto NT01. I'm close to track records so they're being used pretty hard, but this car is light and underpowered and i'm just going through these rotors like candy.

Xian

What sort of ducting do you have?

miamirice

Another happy mini rotor user here. I get them from Rockauto. Using re manufactured ITR fronts, GSR rear. Cobalt pads. No ducting.

Car is 2200lbs with a k20 motor. Hoosier or NT01.

speedjunkie_g35

Centric Mini Rotors and ITR calipers are doing great with my 300 hp SMF civic 2600 lbs. On Hoosier 's.

SCoupe 5sp

I was going through Autozone blanks faster than tires, particularly when running TTC at near record laps as well. So we've got that in common. 1999 Civic Si B16 2150# dry, HC2 + setup.

I got tired of blowing through rotors and coughed up a few extra $ and purchased a set of Cryo-treated high carbon steel rotors from Tire Rack. They were put through hell at rotor eating Thunderhill Raceway in NorCal for about four weekends in hot weather and two weekends at Sonoma Raceway. One just showed a crack to the edge and I pulled it. Had these been Autozone Mini blanks, they would not survive two weekends of that use. As I am no longer running TT and do group c race, my driving style is a little different and therefore braking changed as well.

Long story short, those Cryro treated blanks are a big step up and can recommend them, though they are not the silver bullet I had hoped for, they beat the hell out of always knowing you had to be burnishing a new set of rotors every other event to have on hand.

donut.

How often are you replacing them? I generally replace mine after 3 events or when they start to show check marks or the obvious.

Never had an issue with Autozone Mini Rotors and dtc70's. Running TTC/B record times at buttonwillow raceway and cvr I suppose.

2350#

SCoupe 5sp

Rarely did I get more than three weekend events out of the Autozone blanks. Thunderhill put much greater heat into my braking system than Sonoma or Laguna Seca. My few times at Buttonwillow was before I was operating at the limits of the car. My first instict is that its demands on brakes are on par with Sooma/MRLR but not Thunderhill.

I would not be ok with two events on a set of brake rotors, and if I drove the car without any regard for brake life, that's what I'd get at TH

maxogsr

I have the same issue with the blank cheapo rotor prelude vtec (ac delco I think) with ITR fr caliper using pf01 and dtc60... I didn't bother so far using the mini disc since they're 22mm thick vs 23mm for Prelude vtec... (I know it's pita to redrill) Actually I was using Brembo blank with no issue before. That's before they are now made in china... Now they crack like other... Car is fast (2250lbs DC2 with K20a) and 80% of track time is done on a short track where braking zone are critical.

I wanted to tried the cryo but these are up to 5 times more expensive compare to china cheapo rotor...

Now I'm thinking of custom braket, itr caliper and 11.6'' mini ''s'' rotor but dunno if it will fit under my 15''... Or ducting... or wider tire and brake less loll!

maxogsr

With the mini base rotors, is there quality rotor out there? Or are you just buying the cheapo and change rotors all the time?

speedjunkie_g35

Centric is the only brand of rotors I use. They are the parent company to stoptech.