tech8

Well, the problem area has been narrowed down to either that section of wiring harness between the ECU and main relay; or the ECU.

A beer sounds good, I'll grab one too.

moss500

Atleast we've narrowed it down. Wish I had an ECU to test, that'd be the easier route.

nub

A DVM and a test for continuity to ground could be done to narrow in on either a wiring issue or the ecu.

With the injectors, evap purge, eacv, o2, main realy and ecu unpluged...test for continuity on the main relay plugs blk/yel wire to chassis. There should be none. If there is, there's a sort in the harness. If you get no continuity plug the ecu in and see if you now do have continuity to ground. There should be none. If you get continuity it would point to the ecu being the problem.

moss500

Sounds like a plan.
I'm new to multimeters.
So I'm testing the ylw/blk relay wire during both tests?

moss500

It's possible I did the test wrong, but here's my result.
With everything unplugged, the meter didn't read.
With everything unplugged but the ECU, the meter read only if I put the positive probe inside the relay connector where the yellow/black wires were running to (3rd slot on backside).
Setting the probe on the actual wire wasn't giving me a reading.

nub

As long as your meter is set to test continuity or resistance, with the second meter probe to the under dash metal what you stated indicates a short in the ecu.

You can unscrew and remove the covers on the ecu and look for obvious problems.

moss500

I had it set to resistance, under 20v, and the negative probe touching under dash metal.

I really wouldn't know what to look for inside the ECU. I understand your definition of what a short is, but wouldn't know how to spot it inside. Any advice?

I know it'd be cheaper to repair, but I'm with no car until it's either repaired or replaced. I also don't have a soldering iron if it's required (might find one to borrow).

nub

This makes it sound like you have the meter set up wrong. The resistance setting on most meters is indicated with an omega symbol (looks like a horseshoe).

As far as a visual inspection inside the ecu it's usually obvious when something has shorted (not always). You may see a trace on the circuit board lifted and broken, a popped capacitor or transitor or oviously burnt resistor.

I don't mention this with the intent of repair but visual confirmation of the problem before spending money on a replacement.

moss500

It does look like a horseshoe, I took a picture to verify. I probably worded it wrong when I say under 20v. It's marked 20K. This is the setting I used:



If I did do the test right I'll open the ECU up. Otherwise, I'll attempt to do the test the proper way.

Thanks again for baring with me.

nub

You're good then. I would retest using the lowest scale (200) for better resolution.

Regardless of the scale though you should read 0 or some meters will show OL.

moss500

Did another test on 200 (not 200K) and still had some reading from the relay's 3rd pin in the back (with the ECU plugged in). None on the actual wire.

I opened the ECU and nothing appears to be burnt.

In the first picture under chip 229, there's 2 things touching (XTL1 and C46):



Other side of ECU:



There's random things leaning over (like Q21), but I don't see much out of the ordinary.

moss500

Any more opinions before I buy another ECU?

moss500

New ECU.
Fuse doesn't blow.
Still won't start...

moss500

After replacing the ignition coil it seems I've cured the issue.
Although the new VSS hasn't fixed the speedometer as I thought it would. Time for a new cluster.

Former User

Is code 17 thrown?

moss500

The check engine light hasn't come on sense I got the car working.
I didn't get a chance to read the code before it stopped starting, but the engine light used to go on and off. I have no speedo or odo (still have temp/gas) so I just assumed it would be the VSS, but I guess I was wrong.

Former User

Does the CEL work?

moss500

I don't see why not, it comes on when the ignition is on (ll)

Former User

Use a multimeter to check for continuity of the VSS signal wire between the VSS and cluster connector.

Also check whether the VSS connector has battery voltage and good ground.

moss500

Sounds like a plan, thank you. I'll have to do that tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

moss500

There's been a delay on testing the speedo.

The dumbasses at Canadian Tire sold me a reverse polarity battery a few weeks ago. Right before I had all of these issues with the ECU and coil pack. I also had a passenger headlight bulb explode.

I finally noticed it was the wrong battery when I could smell it and it nearly exploded under my hood. Luckily it didn't. I exchanged it after a 2 hour ordeal in the store with idiots who can't even test a battery. Never buying a car part from Crappy Tire again. Did I mention they sold me the wrong ignition coil? I noticed right when I took it out of the box. I returned it and bought one for $40 cheaper at a different store.

To the point, could this battery have fried my ECU or anything else instantly upon hook up?

I now need an alternator. I put the new battery in and it's getting 18V. Haven't ran the car since the test because it'll just fry the new battery.

Also, after replacing this alternator can I expect further problems?

I have a high idle right now so I plan the clean the IACV and replace the spark plugs (as well as the valve cover gasket, I have the parts already).

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

A reverse polarity battery? Never heard that one before.

moss500

I've never heard of such a thing either. Again, this is what the idiots at the counter told me.

Originally I thought the alternator fried the battery by overheating, and since the battery was so new I could get away with exchanging it even if it was the car's fault. Once I got to the counter they said they sold me the wrong battery in the first place, and some other rubbish about it being reverse polarity. Only difference I seen were the posts on the back instead of the front.

When Googling it all I can find are people talking about connecting the battery wrong, which wasn't my case.