eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Number 2 in the diagram?







eH.

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

Yup! Not the easiest spot to get to.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Picked up the Timken front wheel bearings, rears are on order, and was pleasantly surprised to see a Koyo and Japan stamp on them!







eH.

psychobear

iTrader: (1)

I will be doing my suspension soon also, just started pulling parts from the salvage yard that way I won't be without a ride


How are those hardrace bushings holding up

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

I haven't installed the arms with the Hardrace bushings yet and I've heard nothing but good things about the Hardrace bushings. I was able to get every suspension part from a yard and have all the bushings pressed without removing a single part off my car.





eH.

speedjunkie_g35

I have a gsr swap with ITR transmission that averaged 22 mpg. After boosting it to 300 whp, I average 26 mpg without trying.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Someday, when I recover financially from this rebuild, I'd like to turbo the engine!





eH.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Got the knuckles off and took them in to get the new wheel bearings and ball joints pressed in. Currently deciding if I should replace the axles while I have everything apart. I believe they're original (225k miles) because I can read the GKN label. There's nothing wrong with them as far as I can tell, but if I do replace them I'm going to go with new Napa MaxDrive axles.

In the mean time, I started on the rear by removing the LCAs and strut tower so I could break down the tower and begin the assembly of the Konis. Also dropped the shift linkage to install a C's short shifter with new bushing and install the front sway bar.


Knuckle-less.


Going in for bearings and ball joints.


Old and new.


Upper control arms in the growing pile of scrap.


Crowded work space.


Worn shift lever boot.





Going to have the rear trailing arm bushings pressed in tomorrow and will get the rear disc conversion completed. Hopefully the rear wheel bearing will be in on Monday.





eH.

tony_2018

I might do what you did and just go find spare control arms and press in the bushings myself, no downtime is what I like. I know harbor freight sells a work table stand press but I'm unsure whats the specs on the actual press, 12 ton or 24 ton. I had a friend who bought the stand alone 12 ton and it wasn't enough to press bushings.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

12 tons would just do the rear LCAs. Wouldn't budge the front LCAs. I would recommend a 20 ton press for sure! With the last set of bushings, including the rear trailing arms, I went to a machine shop. Couldn't beat the price especially considering the frustration it saved me.



Rear trailing arms. Last set of Hardrace bushings pressed in.






I'll start on the rear reassembly this weekend and finish the front when the rest of the parts arrive.





eH.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

C's short throw shifter with new rubber, silicone and fresh bearings!







eH.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

With the exception of the new rotors and pads the front end is done! I didn't use the Hardrace compliance bushings because they had poorly drilled holes and that made it difficult to thread in the bolts. I wasn't going to cross-thread a bolt just for the sake of the Hardrace bushing!

I picked up the Timken rear wheel bearings I ordered from Autozone and again found what I was hoping to see...NTN and Japan stamped on the bearings! These are OEM bearings at aftermarket prices! Cannot complain and I have to thank shotoutacc0rd! Saved me ~$80 over Honda prices!

Timken vs 1994 Del Sol Si wheel bearings.


Front anti-sway bar installed. (GSR LCAs, LS anti-sway bar)


Cusco front lower arm bar.


C's short throw shifter installed! **** you, Bitch Pin!


Scrap metal! (22 years and 225k miles of use.)


Koni and H&R springs installed. New outer tie rods as well.


Ready for new rotors and pads!




Tomorrow the rear disc conversion will hopefully get done! Rear LCAs are out along with the struts. Need to pull the E-brake cables and disconnect the drum brake line. I'd like to have the car in for an alignment by this weekend or early next week! I've owned it almost a year and other then the drive home have only put about 500 miles on the car. I looking forward to making it my DD!





eH.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Torque questions...???

How is #22 supposed to be torqued? There's about a half inch between the nut and the body of the car.


Same question for #27 (into the trailing arm). No way I can fit a socket and torque wrench into the amount of space available!






eH.

lunchpale

Lookin' good!

Can't help you on the torque specs but I'm interested to see how the car will sit with the OE sport springs.

shotoutacc0rd

I pulled out my subframe to get nut #22 on. I do not recommend it though.

you have to use a traditional wrench, you may need to cut that weird plastic drain-looking thing to do it though. I tightened it as hard as I could with a wrench, I think it was like 17mm maybe

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Thanks!

I've got the specs, just not the physical ability to torque them. H&R shows the springs are supposed to drop the car .75", I'm interested to see how it sits and drives as well. I shooting to have the project wrapped up tomorrow. Pics to follow.





eH.

tony_2018

Gearwrench for the mf WIN nikka, go get em.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

I hand tightened the nut prior to installing the lower control arms. I can get a wrench up there and have wrenched it down pretty well, but the book calls for 54 ft. lbs. of torque. Guess I'll just use my Kentucky Windage Speciality Torque Wrench for #22 and #27.





eH.

shotoutacc0rd

A ratcheting wrench deff makes it easier. I used the open end of a regular wrench.

I seriously wouldn't worry about the torque spec. You're not gonna strip the nut or LCA stud. I tightened it up from under the car with my feet pressed against my wheel using all my strength. Worked like a charm, I could take pictures to show you that the nut* lol is still there and happy as could be

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, but I'm not seeing any torque wrenches that would help.





eH.

shotoutacc0rd

As for your concern about having it torqued properly, there are attachments that pop onto the torque wrench which resemble a good old fashioned wrench.

basically its a wrench with a socket style hole in 1 side of it. This allows you to measure the torque while also fitting the torque wrench into spaces it normally couldn't go. Idk where to buy em or what they're actually called but I assume this is what you need.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Got both drum trailing arms pull and tossed to the side. Disc arms are in. New disc parking brakes cables run and my ASR brace installed. All that's left to go are the lower control arms, struts/springs, ITR anti-sway bar and new rotors/pads all the way around.




"I've got no legs..."


2 step drum shoe replacement. Step 1 - Remove drum arm. Step 2. Install disc arm.


These were BY FAR the worse bushings in the entire suspension!


Glad to see them go!


Much easier to build then the front struts/springs!


Hardrace has missed the mark a few times now. I had to enlarge the hole just a bit to get the bolt all the way through. Same side, both arms. Consistency, I guess.


New used legs! Almost done with the (re)build.


Bling. ITR bar to follow.




That's all for today. I should be done tomorrow.





eH.

shotoutacc0rd

Good luck with the rear sway bar. IV heard of fitment issues with the exhaust on the hatchbacks.

your build is top notch btw

tony_2018

I got it, yeah fitting a torque wrench in a tight spot. Not good. Can you take a pic of how tight the spot is. If anything you can probably drop the subframe to get to it, now for the rears its gonna be tricky but take a pic of that too.

shotoutacc0rd

Its pretty damn tight Tony. I would show you but you'd just bitch that you have to click my link to see the picture.