BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Yesterday was my birthday and this is what I found. A bargain at twice the price and well worth the 90 min round trip to get them.



Sorry about the crappy pic it was after 10 by the time I got home and my phone doesn't have a flash. Stick around and you can watch me muddle through the install.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

OK, I work 3-12s over the weekend and didn't have time to post more about what I got.

A D16Y8 head off a 99 EX with the P2P ECU, it only needs the solenoid everything else is there including the injectors and fuel rail. As soon as I find a knock sensor and some miscellaneous wiring, etc I'll be ready for a Mini-me.

A complete disk brake conversion off a EG hatch so everything ought to bolt directly on without having to find cables or brake lines. It even has good struts and lowering springs. I measured a the disks and they still have some wear life left, I'm pretty confident the calipers should be good too. I'm going to pull them off tomorrow. I just need new trailing arm bushings. Are the solid trailing arm bushings any good?

I also got a new water pump and cup holders from 96-98 EK.

All this for just over 3 bills.

jbpnoman

Not to **** on your parade or anything, but the rear brake conversion usually goes for about $100-$150, and a Y8 head complete can be had for $100 fairly easily. P2P ECUs are cheap.

That said, I've had poly RTA bushings for years now across two platforms, and love them.

crxsi1

That is a great deal... I got my complete y8 head combo for 300... it had about 60k on it. Came with complete head (cam gear), vtec solenoid, complete intake mani and ecu... its goin on a d15b8 that already has a 8.5lb flywheel, stage 1 exedy and ex trans... I know its only 70 hp but before the flywheel and trans swap I could barely chirp it in second. Now I can get a little spin w/it... so much improved and anguish to get the mini done... what motor are you swapping the head onto???

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

Love how that head is just thrown on cement floor with no surface protection in between. You better get it milled or you're gonna blow head gaskets later.

apexi_rsx

you sir got 300 worth of parts not really a bargain.. never set a head on hard rough surfaces . I usually atleast put it under a towel to prevent bending valves. it only takes a slight bend to ruin that head... I paid 50 a side at the junk yard when I got my rear disc conversion..

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Should I change my user name to Trollbait?

I guess I haven't found the secret handshake yet. From what I've been able to find the head assembly alone is usually around $250 and doesn't include the intake or any other parts. The ECUs are usually in the $50-75 range. The $100 "disk conversions" usually are just the trailing arms without any other parts as well and MIGHT have serviceable rotors and calipers. Not to mention don't have the proper brake lines or cables.

Even watching the ads here I haven't been able to find this good of a deal in one place. I might be able to find these items the same or cheaper with weeks worth of surfing and junk yard cruising but I definitely don't have that sort of time. Otherwise, I feel I saved at least a few hundred and a ton of time.

Don't worry about the head, it wasn't "thrown" anywhere. For the purpose of the pic it was placed by the trailing arms. I've been a gunsmith and machinist for nearly 25 years and I know how to handle parts so calm down.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Calipers off, check
Good pad thickness, check
Bleed screws turn, check
Stupid rotor screws stripped, check
Drill out screws, check
Rotors off, check
Good rotor thickness, check
Knock worst of the rust off rotors, check
Sprayed down everything with Brakclean, check

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Found solenoid and knock sensor in the market place, check.

Since prices get everyone's panties in a bunch you don't get to know.

wildpony5

Nice! Cant wait to do it to mine!

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Bought the solid TA Bushings and replacement disk retainer screws too.

How much? KMA!!!

B_Swapped93

what's up with those shocks ? the spring is halfway down the strut

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

They're drop springs not coilovers.

estewar03

Looks like some fun work ahead of you. Are you going to change your prop valve to a 40/40 or keep the stock one?

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

I was going to see how it feels with the stock one.

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

There's zero need to change the prop valve on 96-00 civics. Only a MC if wanted to

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

Your stock one is the correct valve for the rear disk conversion. You should upgrade the front brakes to at least an EX setup and MC, without it you will get too much rear bias and that's no fun when stabbing at the brakes.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

That's what I've heard and I'm sure we'll get there before too long.

B_Swapped93

yah I've had lowering springs in the past also they never looked like that, cut springs much ?

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Since I don't have any that match for the fronts I probably wont use them at all and the right strut probably Isn't good anyway.

00ejhatch

Theres no need to get another prop. valve. The dx and cx ej hatch have the same as the si already. Doesnt make much sense because the cars come with drum rears. But you could probably easily find the front knuckle of an ex for dirt cheap. I got lucky and got the front and rear discs with master cyl. for 200. If you do find and get the fronts I do highly recommend getting the master cyl. as well. Its a night and day difference. I have an ej hatch as well. You will def. want to change those trailing arm bushings before you get them on the car. I went with energy suspension. They are very nice and can be had for about 35 bucks. Kind of a pain in the *** to install without a press though. can be done with lots of lube and a big bench vice. lol

B_Swapped93

I can tell you right now both those struts are done, and check the top and base of the spring it should narrow down to where it meets the top hap.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, I wasn't aware of the front up grade I'll put that next on my suspension/brake list. At this point I'll just dismount the LCAs and plug it into my existing LCAs and worry about the strut/spring situation later. Until I sell some of the left overs from my last project I can't get anything else fancy anyway.

I have a set of Energy Suspensions on the way. Are there any good write ups on installing these? I haven't found any yet. I am pretty good at getting things in/out once I know where to start. You should have seen me get to work on the trailing arm bushings when we bought this car. Instead of the fancy and expensive tool I used a $20 hub nut socket, a rented AutoZone pulley puller and an impact wrench.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Slight change of plan. I went out to the garage and looked at my set up and I realized these are Integra LCAs and I would try pulling the struts first if they'd cooperate. They did, at least compared to the 35+ yr old Fords I'm used to.

I played around with the idea of tearing apart the TA bushings but decided to wait until I see a good write up or have the Energy Suspensions in hand.

Update: found this; http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sion/17339.pdf

Back to the garage I go.

JuggerNaut-CTR

In the op's pic, looks like those are ebay springs for coilover sleeves.....just there is no sleeve lol. Car would be stupid low with those on there.