Pokyjellyfish

New to the forums here. Gonna re-ring my JDM b18c5 because of excessive oil consumption and smoke during wot and VTEC. My car does not smoke on start up or regular driving and the smoke is bluish grey and smells like oil. Burns about a quart every thousand miles with a mix of regular and abusive driving. Other than that, the engines feels and sounds really healthy and pulls strong. Im gonna replace the head gasket also while everything is off. Also got valve cover gasket and intake Mani gasket and arp bolts. I'm sticking to a really small budget trying to stop the annoying smoke. All parts are OEM and the rings are OEM std size.

Do I need to machine the head if I'm replacing the head gasket even though the old set up wasn't leaking or anything? I have zero overheating problems and have never overheated period

Any feedback is appreciated

coolhandluke

iTrader: (2)

Have you performed a compression or leakdown test?

Pokyjellyfish

Yeah. Results were acceptable. Been dealing with this problem for the last 6 months now. It jus smokes a lot when driving in wot. Final culprit are the rings which I bought for $140 for a complete set for all four pistons. Gonna drop the oil pan and pull the head since space and tools are limited for me. I also have no access to a machine shop where I live.

racebum

you'll want a fine ball hone to use on a low rpm drill when you do this. make sure to use lots of oil

Pokyjellyfish

K. I bought a 3 1/4 ball hone 240 grit for my drill. Will this size and grit work? 240 was the finest I could find on amazon in the 3 1/4 size.

Finland

I the compression test is 'acceptable', then you should be looking at valve seals and/or valve guides, not the rings.

Pokyjellyfish

I was thinking oil control rings. I heard if it were the valve seals, the car would smoke during start up after car has been sitting for awhile. I'm burning about 1qt every 1000 miles. Probably gonna change the valve seals when I change my rings cause they re pretty cheap anyways. Thanks for all the feedback

Nick MC

he could still have good compression with bad oil rings and the oil could also give you false compression numbers since it would help your rings seal. always send the head out to be checked. you dont have to mill it but the shop can check it with a straight edge, clean, and level it. its also another easy hour to do valve seals you could even tell the shop to do it if you cant but its not hard. as for the block i got a piece of steel stock bar and had the machine shop tru it up for a good straight edge. dont use anything unless you know its straight most stuff in your garage isnt. you need the shop manual and a feeler gauge set to do the rest.

Pokyjellyfish

Will do thanks

kulo

Valve stem seals.

racebum

call endyn about that

i'm 99% sure 240 is too rough for the honda rings. they won't seat properly as the scratches will allow oil and compression past. the tool steel honda rings need a very fine hone

this is the correct hone for tool steel rings

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-1-4-Engine...-/230959003908

which is also on amazon

Pokyjellyfish

K. Just searched amazon and found it. Gonna exchange the 240 grit and get the 400 grit. Thanks again. Everyone's knowledge and input is much appreciated.

racebum

also some videos on youtube that show how to correctly use a ball hone. you will want a drill that can be slown down to around 800rpm and a bunch of oil. a half inch milwaukee would be ideal

Pokyjellyfish

Gotcha. I ordered the flexhone brand oil I saw on amazon for honing. Hope that works. All my knowledge and resources are from hondatech so this all very helpful.

racebum

i'm sure it will, i've always just used 5-20 motor oil but the flexhone oil is actually made for honing, probably even better

just pay close attention to how it's done in the video and copy that

Pokyjellyfish

I think its burning way to much oil for it to be valve stems though. I read that bad valve stem seals will smoke on first start up and on deceleration vacuum. Mines smoke only in hard acceleration pretty much. Past 5000 rpms and I would see a think cloud behind me and I can smell the smoke in the car. Gives me headaches.

racebum

replace the seals while the head is off. the OEM honda valve seals are like 1 dollar each. exhaust seals get hard with age

i agree it's probably not you're issue but it's cheap and they are over a decade old. might as well

Pokyjellyfish

Will do

stevann

you can change seals without removing head

racebum

lol, did you even read the post?

specifically the first ten words of the first post the op made

stevann

Yes, I did. I answered on a #17 post, but forgot to quote.

racebum

then why in the world would you mention changing the seals with the head on when the head is obviously coming off?

Pokyjellyfish

Jus ordered the valve stem seals for $1.16 each. 8 ex and 8 in. Got it from majestic Honda. Jus a heads up but some other popular sites will charge $65 for a set. Shouldn't pay more then $20 for it FYI.

Pokyjellyfish

What's the best break in method to seat the rings after a rebuild like this? Did some searching but there are so many different methods. Just looking for the best method for my situation. Gonna do this build next week.

Dark_Teg

I had my B18CR rebuilt last year. My car was smoking just like yours. I let the machine shop clean, hone, and re-assemble my short block for 150 bux with all OEM parts. I was babying the car around town after the rebuild and it would smoke if I got on it a little. After 50 miles it was still smoking. I called the machine shop and he said to do a few full throttle 1st through 3rd runs on a back road. After the first run the smoke was better, after second run the smoke was minimal, after 3rd it was gone.