thermal

mannnn!!! I've fantasized on this type of project since the CRV came out. I will definitely keep an eye on this thread.....

Blackhalo6

im gonna try to stick with my 16's i put on the wifes da. gonna have to take them back. ill get a pic tomorrow. Yes point of no return was a long time ago. today i degreed the intake cam and set the exhaust to 0 for adjustment later. i got most of the front end buttoned up too!. now i gotta get the driveshaft fabbed up and get the rear diff mount fabbed. gonna do that tomorrow. I abandoned the idea of trying to reuse the gas tank. Its not even a little bit possible. Im gonna order a fuel cell in a few minutes. i cant seem to find one with a remote fill so i can use the fuel door. i really dont want to pop the trunk to fill the tank. I tend to have a lot of junk in there. lol. but seriously any quick tips on fuel cells before i order one? i have to order it tonight to be able to finish this before next week. I would like to pull the front hub out of my car and try to fit it in the rear bearing to see if i can pick up a couple of hubs to keep the rear 4 lug. Also i may have to look into the crx struts. with the inner lca mount moved up i took up some slack in the rear, so a shorter strut may be necessary. If i have to fab the upper rear strut mount, im gonna size it for the crx one. if not i may keep the crv if it fits and doesnt make the car ride like a truck in the rear. ive seen slammed crvs so im pretty sure i can come up with a lowering kit for the rear. Also did some research on the dual pump system. apparently there is a relief valve you can shim and it causes it to lock up alot sooner. im gonna try without it then with it. but thats down the line.

B_Swapped93

Don't know enough about them(fuel cels) to give you real advice. I mean more along the lines of like 205's or 225's as you're going to be AWD 16 seems like a good choice for rim size.

Blackhalo6

Its been so long since i looked at the tires, but they only have 3k miles on them. i bought them when i was in TN on leave then drove here to WA, then started stripping the car down. My wife blew a tire on her car and instead of buying a new one, i just swapped those wheels on it. She doesnt work so she doesnt ever drive far. ill look at it tomorrow. As for the fuel cell. i got one that fits, and i may be able to modify to do remote fill. prolly through the bumper like behind the license plate or something. idk. but for now im just gonna have to leave a hole in the trunk. I also bought an external pump and fittings to match it all up... and just realized i didnt buy hoses. damn... guess its a trip to the parts store when it comes in. Anyways im gonna locate it under the trunk behind the crossmember. its a 15 gal tank so i kinda got a boost on that, but the sending unit is backwards for a honda. it comes with a gm one. im gonna try to fit the honda one in it somehow so i can tell how much fuel i have. i went without the foam or sump it tacked 200 bucks on or it woulda hung down too far. just gotta keep it full i guess. its not very wide so accel wont matter but side to side its got 30 inches to slosh around in. maybe ill upgrade someday if it gives problems. spent 450 for the whole setup. didnt get the biggest craziest pump but its a step up from stock. 60 psi 255lph walbro. gotta go to bed soon. gotta get up early and get started.

m4xwellmurd3r

heres a tip for a safe fuel cell. make a steel frame for it to sit in, with a sealed lid on the cabin side with ventilation tubes going to atmosphere outside the car (along with hooking up any ventilation hoses to the evap is ot has any) that way if you have any mishaps it will be contained to outside the car and your car wont fill with gas fumes.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

m4xwellmurd3r

oops I meant seal the whole thing. so a steel frame with angle iron with sheet metal walls. with grommeted holes for your fuel lines. that way debris wont hit it, and if you get a leak or fire the fuel cell will be contained and decrease the risk of it spreading to inside the car


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

Blackhalo6

That's the plan except I wasn't gonna surround it completely with sheet metal. I may, now that you said something. Thanks.

m4xwellmurd3r

It never hurts to have more insurance in any car. If you make the box big enough, you can even have the pump mounted inside it as well.

With some dzus fasteners on the lid and some sort of rubber gasket seal, it can make any maintenance to the fuel system a breeze. No more crawling under the car when you have to fix the fuel pump, etc.

Blackhalo6

Unfortunately didn't do anything today other than pick up a pass front cc shaft and new bolts for the cam gears adjustable part. Some of them rounded off trying to loosen them.its been a while since I messed with them. Tomorrow I'm gonna get up early and try to finish all the outstanding stuff with the exception of the trunk sheet metal.gotta wait for the tank to show up. The hubs and shifter and then done. I think. Prolly forgetting something. I need a shifter for the car. The whole box. I might start with whatever Honda cable shifter I can source from junkyards, but I'm gonna miss the short shifter I had with the solid linkage.Im All kinds of new to cable shifters. My dsm dd has one and I'm sure I need to adjust it, but I'm not a big fan. I remember my buddy's lude and it was better but still not as awesome as my old one. If anyone has some hints or tips lemme know. Also where I can get it from if you have an idea.

Blackhalo6

Ok, so today. just wrapped everything up. one month in and all i have left is: the fuel cell, the sheet metal for the trunk, rear hubs, rear brakes, rear struts, exhaust, and the mount for the rear diff. I didnt get to that today. Mounting the driveshaft took a little longer than i expected, but also came out better than expected. its a good solid mount, and completely able to be removed if i have to drop the driveshaft. i didnt even have to bust any new holes in the car. just took a hammer and beat out the spot, wire wheeled it and took 2 pieces of angle iron, drilled some holes through them, placed bolts in the holes, welded the bolts, then bent the L brackets to fit the tunnel, and then welded it all up. I did get the rear cv shafts in. Something i noticed is the splined portion of the outer cup is much smaller than the stock front ones. This makes me worried that it will be harder to convert to rear 4 lug. I thought about shifting to 5 lug all around, but id have to buy a full disk kit front and rear, and the hubs, and then cut into the rear stuff to fab a rear disk setup. id like to avoid all this and just install a rear 4 lug. Does anyone know of a small diameter spline 4 lug hub? ive been searching, and everyone does 4 to 5 conversions, and never mention crv rear hubs. any help would be appreciated alot. The diff mount is gonna be pretty neat. i did some measurements, and decided that mounted under the L bracket in the rear, the trans mounts will line up with an L bracket on the top of the diff. then i just need some bar stock to go through the mounts and weld them to the L bracket on the diff. Ill get it together tomorrow and get a pic. It should minimize radial motion of the diff rather well, and still allow it to flex a bit so the internals take less impact during engagement.

12HondAcura95

That is pretty damn awesome. Wish I had the money to do that to me 2012 Si

hondad6

Good stuff

Tyrone Sparks

Very good work on this.
Can't wait to see it finished.

Now this is just a thought, why not try to use the crv hubs, more expensive option would be hubs from an s2k.

Blackhalo6

id like to keep the car 4 lug for a multitude of reasons: the front is done and is 4 lug, having to swap all that would be expensive, I have all the 4 lug stuff already and can piece a disk kit together with what i have now pretty easily. I have 3 sets of rims to choose from for 4 lug. each with different offset. which i noticed today may be an issue.(the rear tires might come out from under the fender.) Piecing together a rear setup will be just as hard as a 4 lug but comes with the trial and error of making it all fit. I pm'd rallysol, the guy with the awd delsol, about the rear end. he said that the wagon bearings will bolt to the crv trailing arms without modification, but the hubs themselves are not interchangeable. the od on the wagons is larger. He didnt say anything about the spline size tho. but now i at least have another direction than the 5 lug conversion. which will save me lots of money in the long run. So today i mounted up the rear diff. its pretty nice. got 2 pics. its made from 3/4 in all thread, 8 nuts, 2 front lower trans mounts, an L bracket, and a 2in by 1/4in plate steel. it holds up nice to me kicking on it, altho it flexes a lil more than i wanted it to, but thats easily fixable with polyurethane trans mounts. Its all disassembleable (if thats a word) including the all thread, which can just screw out. I did some measuring today and decided that I am going to have to relocate the upper strut mount back about 3 inches. The angle of the strut was pretty extreme once i used a jack to get the wheel to normal position. I'm playing with the idea of altering the LCA to be able to use the Forked stock integra strut, or i may cut the bottom portion of the crv one off and weld it to the integra one. I prefer the first because that will allow for exchanges later vs having to do it every time i have to change struts. Im still playing with buying one from the 89 crx or the 98-01 type r, but the crx isnt a sure thing, and the type r is pricy as hell and kinda hard to find. also i noticed 2 things today, 1 that the camber is a bit off at normal height, and the tire has moved back by an inch and out a little bit. cant quite tell how much though without a tire on it. It moving back an inch doesnt present much of a problem except the tire may contact the rear bumper/tire well at extreme angles. I figure i can hot knife the bumper, and roll the fender a little more, but i may just cut it and rebuild the tire well at some point. it would look nice, and theres some damage to the rear quarter panel that i plan on fixing at some point and this would be a good way to do it. The fuel cell came in today, and i think M4xwell is right, it would be best to place the cell in its own carrage vs straping it on underneath. the total height with the fittings and everything is 9 inches, and 10 inches from the sheet metal still keeps it above the lower crossmember. I can place it in its own box inside the trunk, and put a door on it at some point. Anyways, my leave is coming to an end, and so is the project money i had put aside for this. its gonna be slower, more realistic pace from here on out, mainly only on weekends. (btw this only took a month because ive been working on it every day from 10am till dark non stop.) Witha busy schedule and deployments coming up, it may be this fall before i can get it on the road. Gonna miss race season this year too. havent gotten to go racing since i joined the navy. Also, i took the filler pipe out and realized i could make a really neat storage space with the space it took up, with the filler door as the access. I was thinking of putting a 120vac converter in the car, and may put a plug in the fuel door so its like a reverse electric car. Idk, any ideas for what to do with the space?

Blackhalo6

btw figured out that im out of argon and my regulator is busted, which is why the welds were lookin so shitty, but now that i know, i can compensate, and it looks a bit better. cant afford to refill and get a manifold at the moment. so the sheet metal case for the tank and the trunk are gonna have to wait. i dont want it to be terrible, and i dont want to burn through it.

Blackhalo6

so after pouring over information on the internet, and getting a bit of help from rallysol. I figured out how to keep it 4 lug in the rear. the inside diameter of the crv bearings are 43mm same as the teg fronts. the inside spline is 23 spline vice the tegs 26 spline. the crx guys that do b swaps have to swap their 23 spline hubs for integra 26 spline hubs. the integra hubs fit in their spindles. therefore, their hubs will fit in an integras, and by proxy fit in the crv rear bearings. the length may be a bit off, but if so i can fix that. hopefully. now just gotta get hold of some.

JumpMan92

Subcribed. Can't wait to see it finished

Teggers

Are you going to have this thing at a stock Integra ride height, or more of a stock CR-V ride height? Or as low as you can go? Sorry if you already mentioned, some of your posts are hard to get through.

Blackhalo6

I'm going for stock ride height. I just picked up a set of 88 crx struts. Btw if anyone's having trouble finding itr struts, its the same. Monroe 71228. They don't list itr struts which was what I was looking for, but the crx ones are the same in every dimension. Tokico sells the same kit for either car. Anyways the ride height should be the same, but the rear track is about 5 mm wider and the car wheel base is about 1 inch longer. Nothing too serious. I'm still wrestling with this 5 lug to 4 lug conversion. I went to the junkyards and picked up a shifter from a 95 accord. Not perfect, but I can modify it. And some front hubs from a 91 civic hatch. Turns out the spline size is fine, but the hub is too small to fit in the crv bearing. I've looked online and a 5 lug conversion for the front is a piece of work in itself. I got to thinking though, what's stopping me from making these 5 lug rear hubs into 4 lugs. Its gonna take a lot of fill welding and measurements, but at this point I don't think it will be too crazy hard. And if it doesn't work I'm out 1 75 dollar hub.

Blackhalo6

I'm sorry I tend to ramble. There's some good info in there if you can get through all the fluf.

Blackhalo6

ok so I decided to try to make the 5 lug hub a 4 lug. Im still in the middle of it, but the front 4 lug rotor fits very snugly onto the rear 5 lug hub once the studs were taken out. this makes the perfect stencil for making the holes for 4 lug. Im in the process of filling the holes, and so far its come out nicely. ill grid down the welds and smooth it up with a dremel, then place the front rotor on and drill out the holes for the 4 lugs. then i have to grind off the lip on the front hub and the outer edge to accept the rear rotor, or i can just put the front rotor on it but it will throw my bias way off.

Blackhalo6

So it looks like i did it. the hole are all hubcentric, but they are a little offset. Im not worried about how strong it is. After i got it all welded up and ground down, i took a hammer to it to see how strong it was. I got nothing out of it. Also the welds ate my drill bits! the one i did in the original metal was fine, but when i started to drill through welded areas, i had to step up through every drill bit. and by the time i got to the last one, i couldnt get through it at all. im going to try and get through all the holes with a 1/2 inch and center them all up, but if that doesnt work, ill use a bigger drill bit, and put the hub back on and put a stud in, attach a nut with a angled end in all four holes and tighten them up so they center correctly then weld them in. i dont like the idea of welded studs, but at this point theres not much else i can do to these hubs to bastardize them any more.

Blackhalo6

hurray i did it, i made a fully functional hubcentric 4 lug out of the 5 lug. now i gotta clean it up so the rear disk will fit on it. more to come tonight

DazeMS

B_Swapped93

Saw someone do this(awd set up) in the civic section of here the other day alot more attention to detail here tho . What's you'r completion ET right now ?