lta777

N+ Coilover Review:
Features:
15 Adjustible Damper Adjustment Adding 4kg/mm to the set up or away from the set up depending on the setting.
Urethane isolated upper pillow ball mount
3 way adjustable coilovers allowing ride height to be adjusted independently of spring pre-load This was a big feature i liked, that is a must have for ride quality and consistent spring rates.
Complete mono-tube design
Nice finish

Ride Quality: Having had stock suspension, skunk 2 springs, skunk 2 pro-c's I can say that this is the best suspension i've had. Not to mention i've had the oppertunity to ride in cars with b/c and tein coilovers. This coilover is as close to stock ride quality with handling bumps. Not to mention even if there's 4 people in the car it handles the ride well. Even on full soft while maintaining quality ride comfort i can have faith in my car when going around a bend, or merging on daily driving.

Turn up the stiffness, and put your car on a track and let me tell you compared to my pro-cs the n+ keep the car on rails, youll have great confidence in your cars handling capabilities after installing these.
Construction: Great quality, i've had these installed for almost 10 months now, i haven't had any problems and these coilovers have been put to the test between track days and auto-x and daily driving in NJ's snow storms these coilovers have held up to the test of time, with no decrease in performance!
Durability: on month 10 as of 2/13 so far no failure great quality and no complaints. I have yet to see any corrosion or decrease in performance of the coilovers. I will be doing a session of road course this weekend on this current set up! These coilovers are made to be raced and used, and i expect them to continue to perform as my track seasons continue.

I also purchased the Buddy Club P1 LCA's
I'm very happy with this purchase, they've held up long term no rusting, or failures. They come with polyurethane bushings and are a great match up to the N+ coilovers. With 6061 Aluminum these LCA's are tough, and have lasted through my NJ winter storms, track days and daily driving through NYC and all over NJ.

I strongly recommend the N+ and P1 Lca combination. This is a quality set up for any basic diver who wants to lower their car but doesnt want to lose ride quality, as well as those people who are auto-x ****** and track *****, you can expect this coilover to get you into the top times for the day, and the FTD if you know how to drive your car.


I also purchased the ASR Brace with a 24mm rear sway bar. I'm sure there's multiple reviews. obviously going from a 14 to 24mm rear sway bar has shown great improvement. My understeer has improved as well as handling. Its a great buy, especially with the availability to upgrade to their 32mm hollow swaybar (if your nuts and need that).
I also like how it comes complete, with polyurethane bushings, and not to mention it all goes together as a kit, so install is easy.

Note about the install: i did not drill out the thread for the sway bar busings. I did not want to lose the thread if i went back to stock, i did not run into any problems long term even after track use, and the sway bar performs well. The only problem i did run into was that you can easily over torque the bolts by not drilling out the bolt thread. be careful during install.


All in all i'm very pleased with this set up, I am even more excited to add more quality parts from Buddy club to my cars suspension in the near future.

Some plans i have include:
Buddy Club Extended Ball Joints
Buddy Club Front and Rear Camber Kits

Expect some reviews once i purchase these!


Update: 10 months later here's how there holding up! In great condition! Even after auto-x and a winter in nj.

mad_affliated

Good stuff thumbs up

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Somebody explain to me why this is a "must have". Unless your springs are progressive, linear springs rates remain consistent regardless do they not?

STOCK_SOHC_DX

First off I like the 10 month update in the first post! Lol. Secondly those dampening adjustments really did nothing in between "clicks" as shown on the dyno charts. Last but not least good luck with your back if you're using this for a daily driver as I recall they were retarded stiff.

1998GsRIntegra

What I personally gather from this "review" is that you don't have a clue what you are actually talking about. Happy up there pretty much already outlined that. Good luck with those "extended wheel bearings." I hate to be redundant(in regards to what SOHC posted), but shock dynos have already proven that those 15 clicks of adjustment are more like 2.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

When reducing spring preload you are also reducing the distance to the bumpstop, reducing your suspension travel. Increasing spring preload increases the chances for topping the damper out, which is obviously bad also. These are designed with minimal amounts of suspension travel in mind just like all coilovers with an adjustable body.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I've re-read that half a dozen times and something about it makes no sense. Probably because with or without adjustable preload you can do the exact same thing by adjusting your ride height.

It just does not seem to be as big a factor as many people make it out to be. Especially when so many hold this "feature" in such high regard yet do not even know what to do with it when they have it available to them.

lta777

Thanks!

Thanks the 10 month up date i figured would be helpful. I personally have not had problems with the shocks with clicks i notice a increase in stiffness, from my daily set up to my track setup. As for the stiffness personally i think that they're very comfortable and handle bumps well on their softer settings, and obviously when your increase the stiffness they do ride stiff, which you would want if your going to increase the stiffness. From having skunk 2 pro-c coilovers and riding in my friends F&F 2 and tein coilovers i personally think that these have the best ride quality.
Thank you for pointing that out, i meant to say extended ball joints. I dont know everything of course, but i do know my experience on how i feel these coilovers perform and ride, and how they do compare to other coilovers i have driven and have used on my car. The other information i included on this review was taken directly from buddyclub, so i would hope that they know the product they are making.

1RedEK

So right now im trying to decide between buddy club and D2 for my ek 2dr. I cant seem to find andy info on which goes lower. from what i red buddy club looks like the wayto go for quality of ride and such, but i cant find the specs as to how low they go.. anyone have either the buddy clubs or D2 and know how low they will go? im looking for a good ride quality but also want to be able to get a full tuck and be slammed all the way around.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Either one will go low enough that hitting the control arm into the shock tower will be your next concern. I'd think that the N+ is better quality overall than the D2.

This thread is almost as old as the universe itself, BTW. And some of the info about the coilovers is incorrect. Not that it matters for your purposes.

1RedEK

gotcha thnks for the reply. and yeah i know its old but unfortanaty im unable to make a new post due to not being a memberfor 5 days yet -_-

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

2013...2 years old, haha. Not quite as old as the universe. I'm glad you at least bumped a review thread.

As stated, you'll have more issues than just 'how low' it can go. Finding a coilover that will slam your car is like finding a turbo that will make 500 HP. Just because you found it doesn't mean the rest of your car will handle it.

1RedEK

Yeah i hear you on that, Well my car is already slammed but it's on some cheap ebay slip ons and what appears to be the stock towers... Pretty bouncy *** ride and not to mention that they are worn out, like the passenger side front and rear can be moved all around if you jack that side up and when i order whichever coilovers i end up getting I'll probably order a camber kit also. but yeah my plan is to get a good coilover that is able to go as low as i want, then progressively go lower with them as i finish building the rest of the suspension components.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

A camber kit will give you less clearance between the UCA and shock tower up front. Like I said...N+'s will get you low enough that hitting the shock tower will be the next concern.

1RedEK

even if i only camber the front a small amount? i don't want the front too cambered mostly i want the rear to have a little more camber then the front.. honestly one of the main reasons i said camber kit was bc a few buddies keep telling me that I'll need one.. will i though actually?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't matter how much camber you add or subtract. The kit itself is taller than the normal UCA. Skunk2 pro plus is probably the lowest profile kit...but still taller than stock.

The ball joint portion of the stock upper control arm is flush with the arm. The ball joint portion of a camber kit is higher up than the arm surface. So you lose travel between the upper arm and shock tower.

Slamming a car is more complicated than the internet suggests.

Also...camber more = more positive? Or more negative? Why camber the rear more? Who are your friends? Have you considered getting new friends?

1RedEK

camber more as in more negative my bad. And haha yeah im the type of person to take everything most people say lightly until i feel confident in its credibility. but yeah so you say no camber kit than? thats fine with me as thats less money and if its not needed than its not needed. i know there should be some natural negative camber just by lowering the car, right?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

There will be some natural camber. Why did you want more negstive? Were you going to buy a wide/low offset wheel set?

1RedEK

Nope already running one, and i like the look of a little negative camber. but here's a pic of my current setup:




al little wide but not too much

B serious

iTrader: (1)

If you want more negative camber than you have, then yeah...you need a camber kit.

Camber kits can be properly used to dial in a desired amount of camber. For a mild drop, you don't NEED one to correct the small amount of harmless neg camber.

But for a bigger drop, or to try to do something specialized (like adding negative camber to fit wheels, etc), you do need one.

The Skunk2 Pro Plus front kit has a pretty nice design with a low profile joint. I think maybe buddy club has the same setup? Quality in that case between those two companies would be a toss up. I used a Skunk2 kit on my ITR to get -3.6 degrees up front for track use.