ctandc

Picked up a clean 2000 Integra up for my son's first car. Working on getting it straight.

Body and paint was already done, I'm now working on cleaning up and getting the interior right, next up will be a full service on the engine and tranny.

Anyway, the car is missing the top 'push pin' type clips that hold the interior hatch trim. I've searched both this site and other sites and the only part # I could come up with is:

91505-ST7-003Z

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sea...&page=1&cat=12

Since I don't have an actual clip to compare, I'm not sure if this is the part I need.

Does anyone have one of these clips laying around they could take a picture of? Anyone know the right part # for the Integra?

The hood latch is a bit buggy too. The cable has become detached from the inside handle. I can easily put it back in, but once you use it to open the hood, the cable appears to bind somewhere and will just pop back out of the handle and not release the latch so the hood will close. Have to pop the latch back with a screwdriver.

I'll clean and lube the latch and line the striker up and check operation, but it appears this cable is a pretty common issue.

Any other sources for this part beside OEM?

Thanks!

fcm

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

Replace the hood release cable it is binding, you can remove it and try and re-lube it, straighten any "kinks", also a good time to relocate/rerun it into the engine bay instead if through the fender, [easly accesed by a crook] it is the first security upgrade you should do anyway.

A boneyard, [PicknPull/PickaPart] is your best source for parts 94

ctandc

Yeah, I figured it was the cable. I'm putting together a parts list so I can make one order from the dealer.

I did find out the PT# I listed above IS the correct trim clip. I ordered some already.

I definitely have experience with pull-a-part places, problem is getting the time to get to one. I hope to hit up my favorite spots on Saturday...who knows.

Think I'm going to go ahead and replace the cluster bulbs and add that to the list.

ctandc

This is my first Acura / Honda, but I've wrenched on plenty of other makes. I thought the other dealers were proud of their parts....holy crap the local Honda Dealer is just looking to rape you.

Want to do the drain/fill x3 on the Integra, so I called about the Honda ATF. Full list price, almost $9 a quart. Figured I'd also do the thermostat and radiator hoses since I'm doing timing belt, seals, water pump etc. $33 for the thermostat. WTF?

Just ordered 9 qts of Honda ATF, and a thermostat SHIPPED for less than the local dealership wanted for the fluid.

Is this normal for Honda OEM parts?

All my other stuff got here today, so this weekend I'll tear it down:

- Timing belt
- Water pump
- Cam and crank seals
- Plugs
- Wires
- Cap and Rotor
- VC gasket with grommets and spark plug seals
- New tensioner and spring as well

Just got finished cleaning the interior on this thing (black leather). The same woman owned it from 2003 until I got it. Not only was she a smoker (no burns but plenty of nicotine stains from hell) but she apparently had smoking friends riding in the back and long hair that really liked to fall out in the interior.

I've gone through 3 full rolls of the blue shop towels just cleaning / conditioning the seats, carpet, and back trim.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Honda parts are pricey, but by and large they are well worth the expense. With few exceptions they are miles beyond the quality and reliability of aftermarket parts (and better still the OEM parts for other makes).

You can make it a lot less painful if you mail order the parts (in groups, so you don't get gouged on shipping). Try:

oemacuraparts.com
acuraoemparts.com

ctandc

Thanks for the links - I dug 'em up using google search for this site LOL.

I shopped around for the OEM parts I needed.

Found the OEM hood cable on Ebay through a dealer for $40 shipped.

Bought ATF (many online parts places don't offer to ship ATF for some reason - it's not really considered hazardous material) and thermostat from Curry Acura (free shipping). Fast too - shipped out the same day and I ordered at like 3pm EST. (they are in NY).

Found the trim clips I needed through a cross reference fastener website and was able to order a box of 10 for chump change compared to OEM parts. Worked perfectly to secure the rear hatch plastic (mine was missing ALL the clips).

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Nice! Sounds like you've got things figured out. PM me if you need any used misc. parts (see sig.).

deving916

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on teh pickup!

got any picturez?

ctandc

I'll take some tonight. Car is actually VERY clean. The two techs that inspected it both own Honda's and couldn't believe how clean it was. Of course the paint is recent (and it's not perfect but it's nice - of course I used to paint cars and I'm pretty particular about that) and I spent two evenings tearing about the interior and cleaning it up...still have some more detailing to do. The woman who owned this car, I hope her personal hygiene is better than the interior of this car was. My 100lb Lab leaves less hair on the carpet than she did in this car....

Not to mention that AFTER the timing belt, major tune up, rack and pinion (on order the one on there now is leaking), replacing wheel bearings (pass side is a bit loose -nothing horrible) doing the brakes, and all the little things to get it straight, I'll still have way less in it than blue book...much less what clean 2 door Integras go for around here.

The kid is 16, this will be his first car. Hopefully it will get him by for the next 4-5 years.

ctandc

Well it's snowing outside. Not really sticking at the house, but my work closed this morning, it got bad quick. I had driven the Integra to work so I pulled it in the garage when I got home, turned on my space heater and tackled a few small things...

Adjusted the headlights, cleaned and lubed the driver's power window tracks, threw some new headlight bulbs in, put some brighter bulbs in the cluster..

that reminds me...anyone know the part # of those small lights in the cluster? Just a replacement...one of the gear indicator lights is out.

Car was recently painted...looks good. I'm picky...I'm already considering what color it should be instead of red.....I'm leanin' Silver.

Here's some crappy phone pics





I'll paint the valve cover after I get the new rack in, front wheel bearings done etc.



I worked a bit on the hood to see what I could do with the paint...it looks good...but again - I'm picky. This was a little polish...I think with some 3M polish I have it might buff out nicer.







The interior cleaned up nice. Need the driver's floor mat. The original Acura mats are in it, just missing the driver's piece.

deving916

iTrader: (2)

soooo clean.

idk if i missed this or not, but what state are you in?

tercel95

Why isnt your son helping you do all of this?

DC5_Pedroooo

That's a nice integra.

ctandc

Actually he has been. The majority of the major work I've done late at night in the garage.

fcm

Nice, good find.

I was going to ask about your son also, as you had not mentioned him working on the car.

A little hint, if not already done, remove the rear wheel arch protectors and toss in garbage, they are good for one thing only, rust. 94

ctandc

I ran across that mentioned...I'll look at 'em after I sort the odd rack issue out, get the bearings in as well.

ctandc

Started tear down so I can get my new front wheel bearings pressed in.

BTW- I purchased a pair of SFK front wheel bearings..searched and searched and scored them for @ $85 shipped. Ordered these on a tip from a friend who was a former Honda Tech (he's now a BMW service manager) and he was right. Opened the SFK boxes today to find KOYO wheel bearings. Nice.

On a shittier front, as I started taking parts off the driver's side, realized the driver's side rack boot is busted. After moving the outer / inner tie rod around (after getting it loose from the knuckle) power steering fluid started coming out of the boot. The boot simply ripped at the outer retaining clip. So the rack needs to be replaced.

After checking other parts, I just got done ordering the following from RockAuto:

MOOG lower ball joints
MOOG problem solver outer tie rods
Upper control arms w/ ball joints

Ordered a rack from RackDoctor on the advise of the same friend.
$222 includes the lifetime warrantied / rebuilt rack, and a prepaid label for shipping back my core and that core return is $75. So $147 for a rack. Works for me.

Also hit up Curry Acura for new brake rotor screws, new spindle nuts and the missing windshield washer cap I've had no luck finding at junkyards.

Need to go pick up a pitman arm tool to remove the upper and lower ball joint. Figures...the only time my hammer wasn't successful in knocking it loose.

I plan on picking up two good used tires for the front, I got a guy who gets some great take off tires at a good price. I decided on this route, since apparently the former owner installed high end Michelins on the rear (almost no wear) but in the non-stock size of 195/65/15. Since this is stock height and will stay that way for at least a good while, I'll just add two good matching size tires in the front.

This will do it for now.

ctandc

Well lessons learned on getting the driver's side knuckle off made the pass side easy. Maybe 30 minutes to get it all out.

Waiting on the lower ball joints to arrive. When they get here, I'll drop the knuckles off and get the new Koyo wheel bearings (the pass side is noticeably bad when you spin the hub by hand...) and lower ball joints pressed in.

Rack should be here mid - late week. I'll get this one ready to drop before it gets here.

ctandc

Disconnected the steering column cover, removed the steering shaft from the rack. Pulled the LH outer tie rod. Went to pass side and yanked it over. Can't find my 14mm flare wrench, so I have to pick one up tomorrow after work. Soaked the fittings in liquid wrench in prep for tomorrow.

Oh yeah - Helms wants you to remove the converter to do this. I think I can do it without doing that. However I came to this conclusion after getting one exhaust bolt out and breaking the other rather easily. You'd have to disconnect the rear O2 sensor to do this. Good luck getting anything on it as it sits with the heat shield.

The rear beam seems like you don't need to remove it, but once gone it gives you access to the power steering line fittings. You can get all 4 rear beam bolts from up top. Long extensions, 14mm, 1/2" drive ratchet with my 4 ft metal fence pipe cheater bar to break them loose.

I'll get a flare wrench, break loose the fittings, then remove the rack bolts and see if i can tip the rack a bit to drain the fluid when I remove the fitting and hose.

It LOOKS like I can snake the rack out without having to drop the exhaust all the way. One of those move it a bit - look a bit - move it a bit - 'till you figure the puzzle out.

ctandc

I've been swamped. Only able to work on the Integra a bit in the LATE evenings after work.

New rack is in, new outer tie rods, new upper control arms, new lower ball joints and wheel bearings. Finished buttoning up the driver's side last night and was working on the pass side when I got ready to install the brake caliper....

That's when I realized I had zip tied it to the back side of the knuckle...to keep it out of the way...so now of course I can't install it because it goes on the front side...LMAO...I literally laughed out loud to myself when I realized what I'd done.

No biggie - I planned on flushing out the old brake fluid with my brake bleeder anyway, so tonight if I have time I'll just crack the line loose, install the caliper and bleed / flush both front calipers.

After that it's drop the tires on the ground so I can torque the spindle nuts, then make sure the wheels are straight then I'll reconnect the steering column joint to the rack's pinion.

After that, test drive. Only thing left for now is installing the new hood cable, and doing the 3 X drain and fill on the transmission.

I'll probably dish out for new rotors and pads next month. I'd rather wait and order GOOD stuff online for about the same price, if not cheaper, than the stuff I can get locally.