aeon117

So just recently, getting CEL code 9 (obd1) on a b20vtec swap. There is no problems when egine is cool, but when it warms up, even just slightly (like 1/8 engine temperature on gauge), car acts like it misfired while cruising or accelerating, and eventually CEL 9 illuminates. Code vanishes when car is tuned off, and will not come back on until car acts like misfiring (when warm). Once the light illuminates, car behaves normally (no misfires, no sluggishness, etc).

Did some research and code 9 refers to cyp sensor (cylinder 1 position), which is contained within the distributor, so I just ordered a new distributor today.



Not sure if that will solve my problem, so I came here to ask about it just incase it doesn't. Im just wondering if there is anything else that might be causing the code 9. If I can get some ideas, hopefully I can have a list of items ready to check when the new distributor arrives.

kyden

did you order an aftermarket distributor? the chinese made ones are trash.

aeon117

the one currently giving the problem was some craigslist one i got during the swap just to get the engine running. been using it for about a year, now.

aeon117

so I'm assuming the lack of responses means that I'm correct in that the distributor/distributor wiring are the sole cause of cel code 9, at least in my case.

n*werk

lack of responses doesn't mean your correct, just means people are lazy to type and give their input. To OP, what car is this in? Did it run fine before the engine light came on? what head and camshaft are you using? I believe people here don't mind helping only if given enough details.

aeon117

fully stock b16a head, engine is in a 94 integra rs.
car ran fine before. recently was getting lag issues, like if quickly on/off gas pedal, like if car would slow it self down just for a split second. this seems to happen in groups of like 1/second for 5 seconds. then momentary break in occurrence, typically once acceleration from stop to cruising (40mph) is done. then happens again while cruising, but not as hard as before (softer, less noticeable lag) at which the cel code 9 will come up. once light is on, no lag or other noticeable problems. car drives fine until shut off. once started again (if enough time between that engine has cooled) no light, and car drives fine until car begins to warm up again. same lag scenario once this happens.

new distributor came in yesterday, but wasn't home to sign, so going to try to pick it up at the station today after work. throttle body came in day before, and got it replaced yesterday (idle air screw was stripped on old, was making it hard to adjust timing... had distributor right, but couldn't adjust idle screw, so car had real low idle:500-600 rpms). cel code 9 started appearing around this time.

when trying to adjust tps on new throttle body, could not get the closed throttle to read .5v, closest i could get it was .77, but wide open was right on at 4.5. not completely sure if the tps is bad, because it has steady increase in volts when easy increase on throttle. the reason i bring up this issue, is that car now stalls on startup, unless gas is applied at start. car then idles at 400 rpms until warm at which it will idle at about 700-800. I'm assuming this is because of the off set volts at closed, and if so does the tps need replacing, or do i just need to fiddle around with adjusting it more?

edit: idle air screw is unscrewed as far as it would unscrew without coming out, and where it wasn't changing idle speed anymore

aeon117

said F-it, replaced TPS and distributor today, got timing set at 16 degrees, bleed coolant system. During reconnecting everything, removed both the 7.5 backup fuse, and optional fuse under hood. Dialed in tps, took literally 2 seconds, and it lined up .5v closed, 4.5 open, steady increase with throttle.

Put back in fuses, car started right up. Idle was at 1.5k rpms, warmed up to 750 at warm idle.
Drove it around town, no CELs, took it highway, did WOT on the on ramp. After that, coming to a stop, idle would be at 1.5k rpms for about 3-5 seconds, then drop to anywhere from 900-1100 rpms. Very seldom, but it would sometimes roam/hunt from 1000-1200, then set around 900.
I think this is an IACV problem, not sure

aeon117

Almost certain roaming idle is not iacv in my case... The 1.5k rpms briefly upon stopping was from idle stop screw coming loose.

98% sure that roaming idle is from a pin-hole coolant leak. Haven't had time to seal and bleed coolant yet, but am certain car will run and idle like it should once i get it taken care of.