sjtran

Hi, I have a 91 accord ex that cranks but won't start. I been trying to figure this out for a couple of weeks now and I am frustrated. It has 200xxx mileage. I know it's old, but this never happen since i had it.

Here is a list of new parts I bought in order:
battery
spark plugs
spark plug wires
starter

When I first replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires my car immediately started with no hesitation, but I notice there were oil on all 4 of the sparking port of the old spark plugs. I drove it to school the next day and it was running fine until I left the parking lot after my class was over and it stalled on me and wouldn't start up anymore only crank.

I notice that 2 out of 4 of the spark plug wires were loose from order 4321 (front view) 1 and 2 were loose. So I went into my local kragen shop and bought a better fitted spark plug wires. I was hoping that was the reason my car wasn't starting ( no spark ), but it wasn't.

That was when I thought it was my starter since it was old. When I shaked the starter I could hear the gear inside of it broken so I bought a new starter and installed it hoping that would be the problem but it wasn't.

I then pulled out the new spark plugs and notice oil on it again, but I figured it was from flooding the engine (repeatedly stepping on the gas while cranking the engine). So I let it sit over night with the spark plugs and wire out. I just tried putting everything back and cranking it but its not turning over.

Any suggestion??

and I know I am getting fuel and air. I am not sure if the oil is causing my car to not spark.

sjtran

jdmcertified909

First there shouldnt be ANY oil in the cylinders none what so ever. Does your car even throw blue smoke? Sounds like you have bad valve seals. And when you flood an engine its gas only. Where would the oil come from? Think about that.

sjtran

I'm not sure if blue smoke came out. I am aware of the valve seals gone bad. I plan on replacing it soon. Today I removed my distributor cap and rotor to get into the ignition coil. On the side of the rotor I notice what it appears to be brown burnt mark? Would that indicate a bad rotor. I plan on replacing it regardless though. I'm not sure if the ignition coil would be bad and don't want to rush buying something I don't need. Can I bring it to autzone or kragen to have it tested?

The rotor looks similar to this.
http://isomerica.net/~dpn/blogimages..._dustcover.jpg

jdmcertified909

you can take your coil and igniter to get tested at autozone. i replace them when i see the rotor tip covered in carbon or whatever its called

sjtran

So I'm kinda confused. I barley noticed that the ignition coil is missing inside of the distributor?? Is it located somewhere else in a 91 accord?

jdmcertified909

IF IT WAS RUNNING BEFORE IT SHOULD BE MISSING. OR ELSE IT WOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN RUNNING. THE COIL IS LOCATED INSIDE THE DIZZY UNDER THE DUST COVER. AFTER TAKING THE CAP OFF TAKE THE ROTOR OFF NEXT TAKE OFF THE DUST COVER AND YOU SHOULD SEE THE COIL

Steve Z

jdm, I understand him saying that he's got oil on the plug leads in the tubes which is indicitive of bad O rings in the valve cover gasket. All four might mean that the valve cover is not tightened down properly. Once they start to leak oil onto the spark plug tubes you need to get a valve cover gasket set and replace those o rings inside the cover. Also when you retighten the acorn nuts with the new sealing washers do it in order a little at a time around the valve cover. If all 4 have oil in the tubes you might not be getting spark?

jdmcertified909

YOUR RIGHT I SEE WHERE IN THE SECOND PARAGRAPH HE SAYS THERE WAS OIL IN THE PLUG TUBES. I BELIEVE THAT IN THE THIRD ONE HE SAID HE TOOK OUT THE (PLUGS) AND IT HAD OIL. DIDNT SEE SPARK PLUG WIRES. IT WOULD OF HELPED FOR HIM TO BE A LIL BIT MORE SPECIFIC.

sjtran

Wow, i have no idea how it is missing.

sjtran

Here is a pic of my missing coil ):
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1766.jpg

jdmcertified909

Did you let anyone touch your car? Do you know if you have a swap? What is stampped on the block. Might be a swap and could have a external coil. How many wires are on your dizzy cap?

jdmcertified909

Did you let anyone touch your car?

sjtran

The only person that helped me with my car was my friend, but I was the only one that removed the distributor. What stamp are you talking about? The dizzy has 5 wires. 4 being the spark plug wires and the other one I'm not sure what its called.

sjtran

it looks exactly like this :
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/F201027928OES.JPG

sjtran

After doing some research I found out that my distributor must be from a 93 accord. I'm going to test if my igniter and ignition coil has power tomorrow. So would I have to buy a 93 ignition coil instead now?

jdmcertified909

sounds like you had a swap done before you bought the car this is what your dizzy/coil and dizzy cap look like. i circled in yellow where the coil plug goes. follow that and you found your coil. get it tested along with the igniter

jdmcertified909

thats the stamp right there on the left with the arrow. post entire stamp here we need to know what block you have. same with the head stamp circled post that on here too. would help to diagnose your specific engine that you have in your 1991 honda accord. you could also try this



1.
Engine Will Not Start
1. Find the fuse panel that is under the dash on the driver's side of the vehicle. Open the cover for the dash panel and locate the fuse diagram.

2. Pull out the ignition fuse by using the needle nosed pliers. A broken metal strip in the fuse indicates that it is blown and needs to be replaced.

3. Connect the red colored connector of the voltmeter to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the black colored connector to the negative connector on the battery.

4. Read the display on the voltmeter to see the voltage. If the reading on the display is below 12.5 volts the battery is drained or dead.

Trouble Codes
1. Look under the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle. You should see two wires with a connector on each end. Connect these two wires together by using the jumper wire.

2. Turn the key in the ignition to the "On" position, but do not start the vehicle.

3. View the instrument panel behind the steering wheel. Trouble codes will begin to flash if there are any issues with the engine.

4. Determine the trouble code by counting the number of flashes. Longer flashes indicate the first number and shorter flashes indicate the second number. The system will pause between each trouble code.

5. Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic trans-axle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

sjtran

I just tested out my igniter and ignition coil today. It turns out that my igniter was bad. Only one out of 4 of the pins were good. I used a test light to do so. The ignition coil wasn't getting any respond so I'm assuming that is dead as well. Should I just replace both of those or get a new distributor?

jdmcertified909

A lot of people would tell you to just replace that part but personally I would change both to assure optimal spark to burn the fuel. Up to you if you wanna replace both coil n igniter tho

Bad_dude

Why don't you just buy a used OEM distributor and take parts from that? Probably better quality than the after market parts.

jdmcertified909

If you buy them from autozone there lifetime warranty.

Scott Isaacs

Won't start but does crank

Diamondfix

I have the same problem and I replace the dizzy 2 times. Still cranks but doesn't start. I have spark on on all 4 wires and fuel pressure is good.