JDMLaoBoy

I have a 95 v6. And wondering what the most stable suspension would be. I dont want the ride to stiff yet not to soft.. like good enough for daily driven. I know the v4 kits fit on the v6.. but I want some opinions before i replace the current.

bawward

I went with Skunk 2 adjustable coilovers. The lower you go, the "harsher" it will get because of less shock travel, but over all they do have pretty high spring rates. I've had them on the car now for about 5 years, love them! But if you get them and lower the car at all, get camber kits for the front and back, you'll waste the insides of your tires in 10k.

The difference in cornering ability (even doing 35 in town) is incredible. Makes the car feel 500lbs lighter and much more fun.

I've got a 96, not the V6, but the set works for both. Compared to OEM prices, the customization is very nice. Also, I had subs in the back that would make the car sag, so this was also a way to fix that (OEM doesn't like a lot of constant weight).

Also, if you do this, every time you change your ride height adjustment you'll need a 4-wheel alignment ($90 per) so go over to Firestone and get a lifetime alignment deal. Costs about ... well, $120 if I remember right? But I've had my car aligned at least 10 times, so it's worth it.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Some good/some bad information here.

The lower you go (within reason) does not necessarily mean a harsher ride if correctly lowered and researched. That said, most users do no research on spring rates, shock performance, etc and then lower the vehicle to absurd levels and complain it is a poor ride. Added to it, the vehicles are 10+ years old so ball joints, tie rods, sway bar end links, axles, etc and you accelerate the deterioration of those items by lowering the vehicle.

In addition to that, most lowered cars use lower profile tires - which are less forgiving than the stock sizes.

As to tire wear, it is almost completely related to toe. You do not require camber kits to fix the issue - only want/need them if you have specific camber alignments you want. The rear you can use washers and space out the control arm up top, and the front you can purchase either the anchor style or ball joint style - but again, not required.

The V6 model also weighs more, not all coilovers/shocks/etc are going to be the same number - in fact I would be VERY surprised if any company worth a damn has the same part for the shock and springs. But you will have to look and (IMO) call them and explain the difference. The V6 wasn't exactly a popular car and there is a much larger percentage of I4 than V6

bawward

Good point about the v6, I'm pretty sure there is a difference between the two sets (didn't look into the v6's at all, but knowing the added weight, etc, there SHOULD be different parts needed).
When dropping the car (mine is lowered 1.75 up rear, 2.00 in front) your wheels will cant in at the top. Yes, washers will do it, but from what I've seen (and done myself) the adjustments that factory suspension has won't come close. Before installing the camber kits (that adjust camber and toe) I was off by upwards of more than 10 degrees. In fact there was quite a bit of adjustment needed.
Seeing the spring rates between Megan/Skunk2/Blisten/etc, I chose Skunk2 because it was middle of the pack, and about $400 cheaper than Megan (manufactured in the US, but expensive!). You do get what you pay for in many things.
After lowering, I did replace all ball joints, front end bearings, sway bar links, and boots. But I wouldn't go back considering the flexibility it's given me.
I went with Kuhmo (yes, I know, bad brand, but ok warranty) all-season tires, giving my about 3-4 inches of side wall, much more than most. The tires are something to think about before purchase.
Again, not a professional, but I did do my homework, and am very happy with the result.