how boost really works
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how boost really works
ok ok. i did a quick search and couldn't really find what i was looking for. here's what i have learned.
boost means nothing. how much cfm's a turbo flows does.
here's my question(s)..... on a DD b16, what turbo would be ideal for a very versatile power range? i found some guys running DSM 18g's turbos and some garrett gt25's and gt28's that are said to spool quick. what parts are out there that are proven reliable? what are you guys running and are you happy? what would you have done differently? dyno sheets are welcome.
and if this has been asked a million times and you hate me now..... sorry. post a link up.
i'm interested in cam preferences, intake manifolds, exhaust manifold (log and mini-ram), and brands and pricings also if you would be so kind to share your knowledge.
boost means nothing. how much cfm's a turbo flows does.
here's my question(s)..... on a DD b16, what turbo would be ideal for a very versatile power range? i found some guys running DSM 18g's turbos and some garrett gt25's and gt28's that are said to spool quick. what parts are out there that are proven reliable? what are you guys running and are you happy? what would you have done differently? dyno sheets are welcome.
and if this has been asked a million times and you hate me now..... sorry. post a link up.
i'm interested in cam preferences, intake manifolds, exhaust manifold (log and mini-ram), and brands and pricings also if you would be so kind to share your knowledge.
#2
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Re: how boost really works
And if you ever get far enough to read turbo maps, your definently going to need to understand the relationship between pressure and flow.
Also smaller turbo's do have great spool up times. But that can also mean that they overshoot their boost target at first and can put quite a strain on your clutch and engine. Where as a larger turbo takes a little longer to spool, but is much more controlled when first getting on it.
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Re: how boost really works
ok ok. i did a quick search and couldn't really find what i was looking for. here's what i have learned.
boost means nothing. how much cfm's a turbo flows does.
here's my question(s)..... on a DD b16, what turbo would be ideal for a very versatile power range? i found some guys running DSM 18g's turbos and some garrett gt25's and gt28's that are said to spool quick. what parts are out there that are proven reliable? what are you guys running and are you happy? what would you have done differently? dyno sheets are welcome.
and if this has been asked a million times and you hate me now..... sorry. post a link up.
i'm interested in cam preferences, intake manifolds, exhaust manifold (log and mini-ram), and brands and pricings also if you would be so kind to share your knowledge.
boost means nothing. how much cfm's a turbo flows does.
here's my question(s)..... on a DD b16, what turbo would be ideal for a very versatile power range? i found some guys running DSM 18g's turbos and some garrett gt25's and gt28's that are said to spool quick. what parts are out there that are proven reliable? what are you guys running and are you happy? what would you have done differently? dyno sheets are welcome.
and if this has been asked a million times and you hate me now..... sorry. post a link up.
i'm interested in cam preferences, intake manifolds, exhaust manifold (log and mini-ram), and brands and pricings also if you would be so kind to share your knowledge.
"what turbo would be ideal for a very versatile power range?" What does this even mean?
#4
Re: how boost really works
^^^ You need to give a power goal. And what is a versatile power range? A small turbo will have quick spool and good mid range power but will die up top. Remember boost is intake backpressure and a small turbo cant keep up. Learn to read a compressor map
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Re: how boost really works
so the ctr cams and newer itr cams are the same and the best factory option. it seems like a lot of people run these.
also, itr manifold and skunk manifolds are same? seems to be better for lower end power. the edelbrock victor x is better for higher end but loses in the lower end.
the t3t4 50 trim with a .48 turbine side i guess spools really quick but will fall off in the upper rpm's and creates a lot more heat that needs a timing change to deal with. so the next step up is the t3t4 50 trim with 63 turbine side? or is there something in between?
also, itr manifold and skunk manifolds are same? seems to be better for lower end power. the edelbrock victor x is better for higher end but loses in the lower end.
the t3t4 50 trim with a .48 turbine side i guess spools really quick but will fall off in the upper rpm's and creates a lot more heat that needs a timing change to deal with. so the next step up is the t3t4 50 trim with 63 turbine side? or is there something in between?
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Re: how boost really works
i may have seen a .57 turbine side but i cant tell if they're referring to a different turbo or not....?
and SLS mini ram exhaust manifold? any other good options?
am i on the right track? i'm trying guys lol
and SLS mini ram exhaust manifold? any other good options?
am i on the right track? i'm trying guys lol
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Re: how boost really works
You're NOT on the right track. You're doing it ***-backwards. You MUST start with a horsepower goal. Hell, ANY goal at this point. If you don't even have a GOAL to work towards then you're just flailing about in the dark and wasting a lot of time.
#10
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Re: how boost really works
for a non ball bearing option the t3/t4 50 trim with the .63 A/R and stage 3 wheel is a tried and true unit. both the b16 and b18c seem to do really well with one of these. when i was looking over turbos for the b18c unless i went ballbearing the best cost to benefit ratio i found was the precision 5031e. i finally ordered one only to learn that it's out of production and was replaced with the 5431b which i now have. i paid $559 shipped from e motors which was the best bang for the buck that i had found
of course this is based around a 250-375whp goal
if you want more than this you should be stepping up
of course this is based around a 250-375whp goal
if you want more than this you should be stepping up
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Re: how boost really works
for a non ball bearing option the t3/t4 50 trim with the .63 A/R and stage 3 wheel is a tried and true unit. both the b16 and b18c seem to do really well with one of these. when i was looking over turbos for the b18c unless i went ballbearing the best cost to benefit ratio i found was the precision 5031e. i finally ordered one only to learn that it's out of production and was replaced with the 5431b which i now have. i paid $559 shipped from e motors which was the best bang for the buck that i had found
of course this is based around a 250-375whp goal
if you want more than this you should be stepping up
of course this is based around a 250-375whp goal
if you want more than this you should be stepping up
#12
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Re: how boost really works
short answer is: The exducer diameter is supposed to be a major restriction on the stock T3 housing at higher flow rates. That is the major benefit of the Stage III turbine section... it has a larger exducer diameter which permits more flow.
there is virually no difference according to precision with the 5031e and 5431b
both use a stage 3 wheel and come in a .63 ar. the 5431 has a smaller inlet and outlet at 2-5/8" and 1-3/4" vs 3" and 2" of the 5031e but the 5431b has an 8 bladed compressor wheel and actually flows more air than the 5031e and it's 6 bladed wheel. the actual rates are 46lb/min for the 5031e and 48lb/min for the 5431b
both of these are t3/t4 hybrids
there is virually no difference according to precision with the 5031e and 5431b
both use a stage 3 wheel and come in a .63 ar. the 5431 has a smaller inlet and outlet at 2-5/8" and 1-3/4" vs 3" and 2" of the 5031e but the 5431b has an 8 bladed compressor wheel and actually flows more air than the 5031e and it's 6 bladed wheel. the actual rates are 46lb/min for the 5031e and 48lb/min for the 5431b
both of these are t3/t4 hybrids
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Re: how boost really works
short answer is: The exducer diameter is supposed to be a major restriction on the stock T3 housing at higher flow rates. That is the major benefit of the Stage III turbine section... it has a larger exducer diameter which permits more flow.
there is virually no difference according to precision with the 5031e and 5431b
both use a stage 3 wheel and come in a .63 ar. the 5431 has a smaller inlet and outlet at 2-5/8" and 1-3/4" vs 3" and 2" of the 5031e but the 5431b has an 8 bladed compressor wheel and actually flows more air than the 5031e and it's 6 bladed wheel. the actual rates are 46lb/min for the 5031e and 48lb/min for the 5431b
there is virually no difference according to precision with the 5031e and 5431b
both use a stage 3 wheel and come in a .63 ar. the 5431 has a smaller inlet and outlet at 2-5/8" and 1-3/4" vs 3" and 2" of the 5031e but the 5431b has an 8 bladed compressor wheel and actually flows more air than the 5031e and it's 6 bladed wheel. the actual rates are 46lb/min for the 5031e and 48lb/min for the 5431b
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Re: how boost really works
how much power are you wantting to make? you should really set a power goal. if you do that people will be able to help you out alot more rather then guess on what you want.
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Re: how boost really works
true but a set number would make things a little easier. not trying to be an *** or nothing just want to help him get where he wants to be
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Re: how boost really works
He never says because he doesn't know. He won't even tell you what his budget is. Before he was talking about 400hp but had no clue if it was streetable so he just picked a lower number. Chances are the OP has never even driven a front wheel drive car with this kind of output. So even if he says 350 he has no idea why he wants 350.
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Re: how boost really works
the most powerful fwd i've driven was the RSX typeS i owned for awhile. i ended up falling out of love with the thing cuz i got too cozy in a chipped Genesis Coupe 3.8 track making somewhere north of 350hp. i sold the Acura to pay off a college loan so now i'm down a 200/ month college loan, a 200/ month auto loan, and my auto insurance was cut in half. i'm not going to blow all my freed up money on a car but i will build it how i want in time.
i can think of a few high dollar items that i'd like to avoid like sleeving the block and head porting. if you read this page, i've put some parts up i'd like, most being better honda options. i'd like to rely a lil more on common sense in this build.... i'm not gonna put a 500 dollar turbo on a 2000 dollar manifold and i want something thats actually streetable.
cant remember who but it was suggested to start small and build power as you want instead of building some undriveable monster..... so no, i don't have a power goal. i think if you're going to go to the trouble of turbocharging an engine swapped honda you might as well make at least 300hp to start. then there's other yahoo's who say their 600hp civic hatch is perfectly streetable lol. yeah right. i don't want to go that high. i feel that i've stated my budget and goals a few different times.
sooner or later the bottom end will be opened up for rods/pistons but until then i want the thing up and running. if i decide to aim for another 25-75 hp i don't want to have to replace everything i've already done.
i can think of a few high dollar items that i'd like to avoid like sleeving the block and head porting. if you read this page, i've put some parts up i'd like, most being better honda options. i'd like to rely a lil more on common sense in this build.... i'm not gonna put a 500 dollar turbo on a 2000 dollar manifold and i want something thats actually streetable.
cant remember who but it was suggested to start small and build power as you want instead of building some undriveable monster..... so no, i don't have a power goal. i think if you're going to go to the trouble of turbocharging an engine swapped honda you might as well make at least 300hp to start. then there's other yahoo's who say their 600hp civic hatch is perfectly streetable lol. yeah right. i don't want to go that high. i feel that i've stated my budget and goals a few different times.
sooner or later the bottom end will be opened up for rods/pistons but until then i want the thing up and running. if i decide to aim for another 25-75 hp i don't want to have to replace everything i've already done.
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Re: how boost really works
If you think you're going to find one single turbo that is going to be able to cover some broad power range you're mistaken. Start small and build power as you want makes no sense.
Good luck with your pipe dream.
Good luck with your pipe dream.
#22
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Re: how boost really works
manifolds are just as complicated as picking the correct turbo. in fact you have to answer the next 3 questions before i can even venture ideas
1. do you want to keep power steering
2. do you want to keep ac
3. do you want to be able to use a full size radiator
4. what's more important, reliability against cracking or all out hp?
1. do you want to keep power steering
2. do you want to keep ac
3. do you want to be able to use a full size radiator
4. what's more important, reliability against cracking or all out hp?
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Re: how boost really works
manifolds are just as complicated as picking the correct turbo. in fact you have to answer the next 3 questions before i can even venture ideas
1. do you want to keep power steering
2. do you want to keep ac
3. do you want to be able to use a full size radiator
4. what's more important, reliability against cracking or all out hp?
1. do you want to keep power steering
2. do you want to keep ac
3. do you want to be able to use a full size radiator
4. what's more important, reliability against cracking or all out hp?
1. yes
2. yes
3. yes
4. reliability
mini-ram please
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Re: how boost really works
#25
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Re: how boost really works
if you spend more there is a better cast manifold though
http://www.inlinepro.com/s1/p-91-inl...-manifold.aspx
cast version is $375