suspension help
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suspension help
ok i got two suspensions in mind i want but im still undesited..i was thinkin of goin with the gc/an koni yellow 800kg front and 1200kg on the rear....an my second choice are the pic suspension. for all u tht road race/autocross wich one of this would be my best choice.. and this is not a daily driver thnx.
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Re: suspension help
sorry well is for my 94 integra right now it's got stock struts an skunk2 coil overs it rides horrible.. i never had a suspension on this car..ill will be doin alot of autoX and some roadracing
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Re: suspension help
no alot track experience..um tire im runnin now are 195/50/15 im gettin 205/50/15 later on DD? daily driver no
mods
fully port an polish head
ferrea guides/locks
supertech valves
skunk2 springs/retainers
skunk2 pro 1/cam gears
skunk2 manifold
short ram intake
4.2.1 header with a 2.5 collector/with a custome 2.5 kteller exhaust kit
walboro 255/rc 310
tuned on crome
eagle rods/wiseco pistons 11.8comp 81.5mm/calico bearings
stock crank
itr oil pump
endyn catch can
217hp/132tq
mods
fully port an polish head
ferrea guides/locks
supertech valves
skunk2 springs/retainers
skunk2 pro 1/cam gears
skunk2 manifold
short ram intake
4.2.1 header with a 2.5 collector/with a custome 2.5 kteller exhaust kit
walboro 255/rc 310
tuned on crome
eagle rods/wiseco pistons 11.8comp 81.5mm/calico bearings
stock crank
itr oil pump
endyn catch can
217hp/132tq
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Re: suspension help
First, it's either 8K/12K or 800lb/1200lb (they are NOT the same). 800lb/1200lb is waaaay too much for a beginner, and waaaaaaaay too much for street tires. 8K/12K would be a bit harsh for a beginner too.
Second:
...is a good suggestion. Adjustable suspension stuff will only make your car more miserable to drive when you have no idea wtf you're doing. There are countless great drivers who started out with junk on track. They got to that "great" point by maximizing what they had. Starting your autox/track career in a sort of purpose-built car would be a mistake for numerous reasons.
Second:
...is a good suggestion. Adjustable suspension stuff will only make your car more miserable to drive when you have no idea wtf you're doing. There are countless great drivers who started out with junk on track. They got to that "great" point by maximizing what they had. Starting your autox/track career in a sort of purpose-built car would be a mistake for numerous reasons.
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Re: suspension help
my bad yes i was refering to 8k/12k an trust me i want to get a suspension because their aint nottin there...im runnin on stock 1994 struts blown..with skunk2 coilovers..so how can i learn with tht? im sorry by i do know wut im doin i just wanted to ask because i hear good things about both of this suspension setup..Stinkycheezmonky plz can u explain to me why would it be a mistake not trayin to be an *** i wanna know y.. thts y im here to learn from the experience ppl..
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Re: suspension help
If you "knew what you were doing" you wouldn't be asking the question. It's ok to be a noob, everyone starts somewhere, but you have to be honest with us and yourself if you really want the answers.
To help you out, here you go:
-Blown shocks are bad, and should be replaced. Thats an exception to the "start out bone-stock" idea.
-You need to consider your goals. Do you want to improve yourself as a driver? Are you looking to just have a good time now and then, or do you want to pursue competition eventually? If you just want to cruise the track, you can just buy whatever suspension and it'll be fine. I'm guessing that you want to be fast though, and that means you'll need to learn a few things. Nobody is an ace driver right out of the hole.
-Because you'll have to make this "getting faster" thing a learning process, you need to put yourself in the proper learning position. Since learning IS a PROCESS, that means you and the car will progress with time. A person with no experience thrown into a winning competitive car will spin out all over the place unless they drive into a wall first. There are certain car control skills you acquire through this process that allow for a more uncontrollable (but faster) car setup. If you've heard the term "loose is fast" you'll understand that. Since you don't have those control skills, you need the car to work with you in a controllable fashion.
-A nice, noob-friendly car is not too tail happy (big rear swaybar or high rear spring rates will make a car more oversteery/tail happy, and easier to spin).
-A nice, noob-friendly car communicates slowly and progressively to the driver, such that they can see what mistakes they made and will have time to correct them (high spring rates and race tires have an abrupt edge; when you lose it, you lose it...sort of).
-The way to learn how to drive is partly by making mistakes. You WILL make mistakes. You want the car to be nice to you when that happens.
-Adjustable height, camber, toe, castor, etc. are all factors that are ultimately important in setting up a car. Without knowing exactly how each of those things affects the behavior of the car though, and without knowing what you want the car to do, those adjustments are pointless. At best, they'll be one more thing for your brain to think about when it should be thinking about putting the gas pedal to the floor. At worst, it'll make the car an ill-handling beast because you set things to where they shouldn't be. The car in stock form is perfectly capable of completing lap after lap around a track. Remember that hundreds of people are racing these cars without the adjustable widgets (Showroom Stock, for example), which means you can too.
-As evidence, watch some Time Attack videos. There are way too many guys in 700hp cars with big-*** wings, Moton shocks, and 315-series slicks running the same times as the guy with 15 years of experience driving an ITA/H4 car, when he should be 10-15 seconds faster. It isn't a problem with his baller car.
Cliffs: "Race" bits will make the car less controllable to a noob, thus hindering the learning process because he'll be trying just to maintain control rather than learning the line/proper braking/tire adhesion limit/etc.
To help you out, here you go:
-Blown shocks are bad, and should be replaced. Thats an exception to the "start out bone-stock" idea.
-You need to consider your goals. Do you want to improve yourself as a driver? Are you looking to just have a good time now and then, or do you want to pursue competition eventually? If you just want to cruise the track, you can just buy whatever suspension and it'll be fine. I'm guessing that you want to be fast though, and that means you'll need to learn a few things. Nobody is an ace driver right out of the hole.
-Because you'll have to make this "getting faster" thing a learning process, you need to put yourself in the proper learning position. Since learning IS a PROCESS, that means you and the car will progress with time. A person with no experience thrown into a winning competitive car will spin out all over the place unless they drive into a wall first. There are certain car control skills you acquire through this process that allow for a more uncontrollable (but faster) car setup. If you've heard the term "loose is fast" you'll understand that. Since you don't have those control skills, you need the car to work with you in a controllable fashion.
-A nice, noob-friendly car is not too tail happy (big rear swaybar or high rear spring rates will make a car more oversteery/tail happy, and easier to spin).
-A nice, noob-friendly car communicates slowly and progressively to the driver, such that they can see what mistakes they made and will have time to correct them (high spring rates and race tires have an abrupt edge; when you lose it, you lose it...sort of).
-The way to learn how to drive is partly by making mistakes. You WILL make mistakes. You want the car to be nice to you when that happens.
-Adjustable height, camber, toe, castor, etc. are all factors that are ultimately important in setting up a car. Without knowing exactly how each of those things affects the behavior of the car though, and without knowing what you want the car to do, those adjustments are pointless. At best, they'll be one more thing for your brain to think about when it should be thinking about putting the gas pedal to the floor. At worst, it'll make the car an ill-handling beast because you set things to where they shouldn't be. The car in stock form is perfectly capable of completing lap after lap around a track. Remember that hundreds of people are racing these cars without the adjustable widgets (Showroom Stock, for example), which means you can too.
-As evidence, watch some Time Attack videos. There are way too many guys in 700hp cars with big-*** wings, Moton shocks, and 315-series slicks running the same times as the guy with 15 years of experience driving an ITA/H4 car, when he should be 10-15 seconds faster. It isn't a problem with his baller car.
Cliffs: "Race" bits will make the car less controllable to a noob, thus hindering the learning process because he'll be trying just to maintain control rather than learning the line/proper braking/tire adhesion limit/etc.
Last edited by Stinkycheezmonky; 02-26-2009 at 08:12 PM. Reason: That was painful to read without paragraph breaks...
#13
Re: suspension help
That was a good post^...prob one of the best post i've seen all year....
As far as suspension goes, like he said start out with something simple & work your way up, if your on a budget, go with Kyb shocks/H&R springs.
As far as suspension goes, like he said start out with something simple & work your way up, if your on a budget, go with Kyb shocks/H&R springs.
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Re: suspension help
amazing i know wut u mean it is tru on the baller guys haha...thnx for the help..i really do wanna compete but is the money tht stops me. but i do wanna learn more an more..my car is got plenty of power an im happy with it like for now...an yes makin my my car a handling machine thts wut i want.
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Re: suspension help
Just adding to what Stinkycheezmonky said, you might want to rethink those 12kg springs in the rear. They are going to make the rear really stiff. When starting out, you need the confidence that some understeer inspires. Not much will slow you down more than a loss of confidence by spinning your car.
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Re: suspension help
for an integra? I'd say somewhere around 450 front, 400 rear for a beginner. People have different preferences, so it will vary a bit (and others can chime in here). but when I started tracking my civic years ago, I had 350/300 with some KYB AGX, and it was cheep, and pretty good for just getting started and still driving the car on the street.
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Re: suspension help
Eibach and Hypercoil both make whatever linear spring you'd need. You'll need to figure out inner diameter and length before ordering, and then choose spring rate. There are some good eBay vendors selling them.
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Re: suspension help
-As evidence, watch some Time Attack videos. There are way too many guys in 700hp cars with big-*** wings, Moton shocks, and 315-series slicks running the same times as the guy with 15 years of experience driving an ITA/H4 car, when he should be 10-15 seconds faster. It isn't a problem with his baller car.
Cliffs: "Race" bits will make the car less controllable to a noob, thus hindering the learning process because he'll be trying just to maintain control rather than learning the line/proper braking/tire adhesion limit/etc.
Cliffs: "Race" bits will make the car less controllable to a noob, thus hindering the learning process because he'll be trying just to maintain control rather than learning the line/proper braking/tire adhesion limit/etc.
to the bold; *cough* Chris *cough* *cough* Rado *cough*
and to the the OP, i'll just add this pic of my car to help you make up your mind. it's all stock. the shocks, im pretty sure are the ones that came new from the dealership. you dont need fancy suspension to be competitive. it was a great learning tool. leans like a bitch too