mar778c

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the diff from aluminum, mild steel and stainless.
why is aluminum better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lighter

FST GSR 1

It's actually not that much lighter then a nice thin wall SS tubing and is a bad choice for use in exhaust applications for many reasons.

Before I get flamed...I have spent a lot of time in NMRA in Wild Street and SSO, not one piece of Aluminum in any exhaust application. Show me one aftermarket manufacturer who actually makes a exhaust out of aluminum? Do you think they just overlooked the material?

hybrid2007

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's actually not that much lighter then a nice thin wall SS tubing and is a bad choice for use in exhaust applications for many reasons.

Before I get flamed...I have spent a lot of time in NMRA in Wild Street and SSO, not one piece of Aluminum in any exhaust application. Show me one aftermarket manufacturer who actually makes a exhaust out of aluminum? Do you think they just overlooked the material?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to share a few of your many reasons?

FST GSR 1

Sure...mainly different strength reasons among the obvious disadvantages of joining two dis-similar metals.

At around 400-500 degrees aluminum heats to the point it starts to get very weak and looses its structrual integrity. Around 1000 degrees aluminum starts to melt. Each heat cycle a piece of tubing would go though would be considered an un-even heat treating process where different parts of the tube expand and contract at different rates weaking the welds and developing cracks there as well continuing the decline of the strength issue

Most tubing you see used in charge tube applications starts out in the "o" condition before welding. Bending produces whats called work hardening and I believe it ends up in the F condition. T6 is completely treated. If you start with T6 you will heat treat those areas even more during welding and produce even more fatigue to the molecular structure.

Better?


ON EDIT: I forgot T4...I have never used it in any of my designs, but I think that is a designation for a bath type hardening process. I think they heat it with water bath maybe or a water based solution. In tool steel you see O2(oil hardened) or A2(air hardened) commonly so I don't believe air or iol have anything to do with T4.


Modified by FST GSR 1 at 9:51 AM 5/20/2008


Modified by FST GSR 1 at 9:58 AM 5/20/2008

vectorsolid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's actually not that much lighter then a nice thin wall SS tubing and is a bad choice for use in exhaust applications for many reasons.

Before I get flamed...I have spent a lot of time in NMRA in Wild Street and SSO, not one piece of Aluminum in any exhaust application. Show me one aftermarket manufacturer who actually makes a exhaust out of aluminum? Do you think they just overlooked the material?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aluminum melts at 1225 degrees.

From my own perspective, I don't care if it fails and it's 5 times more money. Just sounded like a fun project.

3" .065 wall weighs in at .7048 per foot. 3" .065 stainless weighs in at 2.037 per foot. 16 gauge exhaust tubing is .0598 thick.

I'd be willing to take a chance on 8-10 feet of exhaust pipe to save 10 pounds. And I'll bet an aluminum muffler is a big saver. I've got a big ricer muffler on my car, I bet it's 20 pounds or more.

I guess the real question is how hot is it just after the header flange in a worst case scenario. And for how long is it that hot. Just after making a pass it would be very hot, idling in the pits, not as hot.

Also, people are already doing it, so it must be fine for some applications...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1816011

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2246652
or
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2197677

didn't mean to hijack the thread.


Modified by vectorsolid at 9:13 PM 5/20/2008

GT35R_EF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Using Aluminum on a turbo car was mentioned? A turbo car like I am used to that puts out 1800hp would be an epic failure! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think anyone is arguing that it is not feasible for every application.

And to your statement regarding aftermarket support for this style is obviously based on the fact that the majority of consumers want something very reliable. That is why you see this MAINLY on vehicles that spend their time at the track

And as far as weight savings go....(Believe this was CWest Ek's work)
weighed 11.5 lbs, saving about 35 pounds I think?

FST GSR 1

BTW, 1220f or 660c is for Aluminum...meaning the pure element of aluminum. You aren't using that.

We are discussing Aluminum alloy. Look in your machinist handbook under non-ferrous alloys for Principal Aluminum Alloy Series groups and look at whats added to those series as the principal impurites.

mxbassrocker

also aluminum gets very brittle after being heated up and cooled down several time.

vectorsolid

so how hot are my wheels when my brake rotors are red and you can see them in the glowing in the dark?

-sorry about the thread jack.

ShaunRR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how hot are my wheels when my brake rotors are red and you can see them in the glowing in the dark?

-sorry about the thread jack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.hrpworld.com/index....d=310

GT35R_EF

I think anyone could argue the science of this subject all day long, but how much can you really argue with the people who have never had issues with this and who have proven setups that are functional? When it comes down to it, you will have your opinion and everyone else will have theirs.

street dream gsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GT35R_EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think anyone is arguing that it is not feasible for every application.

And to your statement regarding aftermarket support for this style is obviously based on the fact that the majority of consumers want something very reliable. That is why you see this MAINLY on vehicles that spend their time at the track

And as far as weight savings go....(Believe this was CWest Ek's work)
weighed 11.5 lbs, saving about 35 pounds I think?



</TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe that's a 4"

Rollo Lawson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the diff from aluminum, mild steel and stainless.
why is aluminum better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

weight

Shadowz7429

that picture always makes me laugh

vectorsolid

In the pic with the little girl holding the pipe. On the white hatch on the right. What is the correct name of the part with the holes in it on the bumper? I know what it does, just don't know what to call it so I can search for it.

darrinbrewer

iTrader: (1)

I ran a 2.5" and no cat on a stock SOHC vtec with a ebay header and intake.

car ran/drove fine(96ex)...it outran a dc4 LS! got 32mpg hitting vtec everyday.

well now i've got a b20z(10:1 motor) 4-1 header and 2.75" intake going into that car,to replace the 276k d series

I got a killer deal on a k-teller 3" with a magnaflow muffler, so we'll see if thats overkill for my new setup

ivan93egreppin210

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darrinbrewer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i've got a b20z(10:1 motor) 4-1 header and 2.75" intake going into that car,to replace the 276k d series

I got a killer deal on a k-teller 3" with a magnaflow muffler, so we'll see if thats overkill for my new setup </TD></TR></TABLE> what did you do to get 10:1 comp? i have a stock b20z with 2layer hg unmilled and that puts me only at 9:8. i also have some noname 3" exhaust just sitting in my garage. thats the whole reason i made this thread. as soon as i get my hytec header i will put it on and see if i like it. maybey ill break out the safc from my junk drawer until i put my gsr head on and get my ecu chipped and tuned. my boy can probly sqeeze a few hp out of a few cheap dyno pulls with the safc for now. idk well see.

oldskool teggy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the pic with the little girl holding the pipe. On the white hatch on the right. What is the correct name of the part with the holes in it on the bumper? I know what it does, just don't know what to call it so I can search for it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

its called a diffuser... but search under deffuzzer and see if it comes up

JDogg

2.5inch exhaust vs open header..

small exhaust ftl!!



Modified by JDogg at 2:06 PM 5/23/2008

b20beast978

great thread

Soon2bH2b

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The most advanced is Ferrari's which consists of two exhaust paths after the header - at low RPM only one path is open to maintain exhaust velocity, but as RPM climbs and exhaust volume increases, the second path is opened to curb backpressure - since there is greater exhaust volume there is no loss in flow velocity. BMW and Nissan use a simpler and less effective method - there is a single exhaust path to the muffler; the muffler has two paths; one path is closed at low RPM but both are open at high RPM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would this be effective on a honda and how would this be done??

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soon2bH2b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Would this be effective on a honda and how would this be done??</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is the same idea as VTEC only with an exhaust. VTEC allows you to run economically when you drive it normal and gives you good power when you get on it. The exhaust on that Ferrari simply allows the car to be relatively quiet when driving around town but if you really want max power, it will open up and become much louder. It's like trying to have the best of both worlds. The trade-off is usually the additional weight that comes with its complexity. There are trade-offs with every choice a person makes when it comes to performance and economy/reliability.

Faty17

what if you ceramic coated your header? the exhaust gas temperature would be higher, causing a greater velocity. wouldn't that mean you do not need a 3'' exhaust system to get lots of power?

oldskool teggy

as stated earlier in this thread.. anything behind the header is just a restriction. look at the dynos.. its proven that less restriction is making more hp than just a tiny 2.5" exhaust

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Faty17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what if you ceramic coated your header? the exhaust gas temperature would be higher, causing a greater velocity. wouldn't that mean you do not need a 3'' exhaust system to get lots of power?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, that arguement is plainly wrong.