siriussr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by risktypeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, a t3/t4 is small for the k series</TD></TR></TABLE>

what is a good size then?

dc5RickK20

i think there is some people in this thread that need to do some research. i say go supercharger because you could start with the basic bolt ons like i/h/e and k-pro and make some good power then later you could just throw on a roots type supercharger like jackson racing and you would still be able to use the mods you have oh and to whoever said you could get an intake for 50 bucks and a header for as cheap as 100 bucks this sounds like your on ebaymotors way too much. if you care about your car dont waste money on cheap parts buy good quality parts and you will really see a differance in how your car does at the track. do things right the firt time.

siriussr

ok, so 1 thing i noticed while looking at headers was that some were an exact replica of the factory one. what is the best header to get?

Pat_S

DC Race header. Totally worth every penny in my opinion.

siriussr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pat_S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DC Race header. Totally worth every penny in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

model or part number at all? what kind is it?

portaman03

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc5RickK20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think there is some people in this thread that need to do some research. i say go supercharger because you could start with the basic bolt ons like i/h/e and k-pro and make some good power then later you could just throw on a roots type supercharger like jackson racing and you would still be able to use the mods you have oh and to whoever said you could get an intake for 50 bucks and a header for as cheap as 100 bucks this sounds like your on ebaymotors way too much. if you care about your car dont waste money on cheap parts buy good quality parts and you will really see a differance in how your car does at the track. do things right the firt time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy run-on sentence batman.. it appears as if doing things "right" the first time means spending more than you have to for the same results? Look at it this way.

A $300 AEM will make more power(or sound any different) than a $20 pipe and $30 K&N filter clamped onto it? Uhhhhhh no. Same shiz, you just need to make sure you get quality craftsmanship (I don't run anything other than K&N filters), the piping can be had for like $20. Intakes are a mod that you def dont wanna spend brand name prices on, so you can spend more on other more "priority" mods like Hondata.

As far as the headers, it depends on your needs. If you want to spend $100-200 for a shorty header, it may yield a couple hp less than a full race header (but you will still see some power, especially with a tune). A shorty header will take about an hour to install, and it keeps your catalytic converter (emissions) so you don't have to bother switching back and forth when its time for emissions (like the race header).

And a note on exhausts, there are an ABUNDANCE of styles in many price ranges. In my opinion, 2.25-2.5" mandrel bent, with 100% stainless construction and quality resonators and cans is what you should look for. Keep in mind, many "no-name" exhausts CAN possess these features, many are copycats of the high priced name brands.

Just have to do your research, and not spend excessive amounts on items that can be had for less! You can sometimes find great deals on name brand parts that are on closeout or have been used before.

portaman03

Here's another thought: if you decide to drop $400 on a race header, plan on spending another $20-170 on motor mount inserts or a torque damper.

The race header is rigid as hell and doesn't have any flex pipe on it.

Somebody might chime in if they've had experience with a cracked header due to engine movement?

Worship that search button baby
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2215554

dc5RickK20

first off you guys cant tell me that POS DC race header is as good as a toda now im not saying go out and drop a grand on a toda header but to all the people that hail the dc as being worth every penny you couldn't be more wrong. first off i know some megan or strup header will give you the same gains. know as a guy that's had both DC and Buddy Club and i can say i saw the difference on the dyno and at the track. im not saying you gotta listen to me but i think i sound better then the guy talking about how his bad *** 20 dollar autozone intake with a K&N on the end of it is going to out perform a real intake system lol. hell dont even take my word for it you want some real answers call up a tuner ask him what i/h/e combo's make the most power even ask him about that mad tyte pvc pipe with a filter on the end you picked up for 20 bucks see if he even takes you serious after you say that

risktypeS

I'm actually going to jump in for the intake bit..

an intake is an intake whether it be a $20 or a $300 dollar intake. All it is, is a mandrel bent tube fitted to your car. Nothing spectacular, no rocket scientists were involved, no equilibrium of the left cortextual sentax working with the venturi effect . I'm going to have to agree with portaman03 with the intake. It is what it is. I've preached that many times on here but it got old.

the pvc pipe example is a bit extreme.. but unfortunately if it were shaped the exact same size as any other intake and bent the same way it would work the same as any intake BUT the harsh weather with under hood conditions would break down the pvc and make it become brittle (and dangerous to your engine).


OP:
A good size depends on what your goals are and what you are trying to accomplish on top of learning how to read a flow chart. These motors produce twice the exhaust gases as the original vtec motors would.

JnewTS

Honestly what are you looking to do with the car

if you are going to race a drag are you going from a roll or dead stop
roll turbo
dead stop supercharger

also do you care about gas mileage

if so go with a turbo if not a supercharger might be better


My opinion i would go with a turbo they get you better gas mileage and almost the same pay off of hp (and they sound awesome LOL )

joey funk

if you get the JRSC race kit, it comes with k-pro, so that will save you a grand.
I would say go with that, unless your a turbo-lover.

blueshark123

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JnewTS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly what are you looking to do with the car

if you are going to race a drag are you going from a roll or dead stop
roll turbo
dead stop supercharger

also do you care about gas mileage

if so go with a turbo if not a supercharger might be better


My opinion i would go with a turbo they get you better gas mileage and almost the same pay off of hp (and they sound awesome LOL )

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's wrong with a turbo from a dead stop???!

risktypeS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueshark123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's wrong with a turbo from a dead stop???!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just about to say that.

JnewTS:
There is no difference from roll and dead stop with a turbo and supercharger. It boils down to who can put the power to the ground. They aren't going from a roll in drag racing.

Pat_S

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueshark123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's wrong with a turbo from a dead stop???!</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's his first post in Honda-Tech. Let him slide for now.

Curtis Bruce

I have a 2005 Acura RSX Type S with injen cold air ram, DC Racing headers, and knock off n1 catback exhaust system.
I've been thinking of more things to do like hand heads and super chargers. What do you suggest?