Teaser



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I may have missed it in another thread but any reason you didn't go with a ROH swap at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah nope, haven't talked about that yet, I saw no reason too. I plan on keeping those studs and the Brembo rotors for awhile

Parts List:

1) 2 x Brembo OEM replacement rotors for 1996 Honda Accord V6/Wagon
Manufacturer Part #: 25430 OR 65430

2) 2 x OEM replacement brake caliper brackets for 1996 Honda Accord V6
NAPA Part #: BK 6751715

3) 2 x Brake Pads
I just used crappy OEM replacement pads for a 91 Acura NSX from Advanced Auto Parts

4) 2 x NA1 NSX Front Brake Calipers
Best of luck finding them but get them from wherever you can (~$300)

Studs
For my setup as Turbowa noticed, I had ARP Extended Studs, necessary if you do the swap I'd imagine with most OEM wheels (I used ITR wheels which are +50 offset I believe these would come in contact with the brackets without the studs and a spacer)

Spacer
In addition to the extended studs, I tossed on an 8mm spacer to clear the new calipers and their brackets - I just reused the same spacer from when I tossed the ITR wheels on my Accord.

Braking Fluid
I just used OEM fluids in it and it stops amazingly, later on I'll probably upgrade to ATF Blue Brake Fluid (racing fluid)

Rotors
The Brembo blank replacement rotors are topnotch for what they are and using the Wagon/V6 rotor gives you 9/10 " (from 10.2 to 11.1) in rotor size which greatly increases the area for the pad to rest on.

Pads
I just literally walked into Advanced Auto Parts and asked for 91 Acura NSX front brake pads (roughly $60 for all 4) and walked out, just quiet OEM replacement ones for the time being, I'll be looking into Hawkes or Cobalt Friction Pads in the future.

Wheels
I used an 15" OEM 96 Spec ITR Wheel which literally just barely clears the calipers (5mm at MOST!) And this would obviously be the smallest wheel you could run on this setup, we weren't 100% sure it would work with what I had

Results
Literally astonishing at the braking power now, incredibly improvement over the stock setup with no real hardcore mods (other than the rotor being pressed in). Everything bolts right up and shouldn't give you any problems, I would recommend however that everyone use at least a 16" wheel or else you'll cut it close, I don't think many 15" wheels will work with it.

NSX Caliper Upgrade =


Modified by TheMuffinMan at 12:46 AM 3/7/2008

 

eagerly awaiting a write-up

 

No teasers. Just make a nice how to thread and then post.

Unlocked for content to be added.

 

Thanks Dave, I'll toss it up shortly

 

I may have missed it in another thread but any reason you didn't go with a ROH swap at the same time?

 

Is it just me or do those wheel studs look REALLY long

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbowa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it just me or do those wheel studs look REALLY long</TD></TR></TABLE>

IIRC, he has ARP studs. So yes, they would be longer than stock.

I believe he has those to run spacers with his 96 ITR rims.

 

nice. they brake good??

 

nice...good friend of mine just got done doing his

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I may have missed it in another thread but any reason you didn't go with a ROH swap at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah nope, haven't talked about that yet, I saw no reason too. I plan on keeping those studs and the Brembo rotors for awhile

Parts List:

1) 2 x Brembo OEM replacement rotors for 1996 Honda Accord V6/Wagon
Manufacturer Part #: 25430 OR 65430

2) 2 x OEM replacement brake caliper brackets for 1996 Honda Accord V6
NAPA Part #: BK 6751715

3) 2 x Brake Pads
I just used crappy OEM replacement pads for a 91 Acura NSX from Advanced Auto Parts

4) 2 x NA1 NSX Front Brake Calipers
Best of luck finding them but get them from wherever you can (~$300)

Studs
For my setup as Turbowa noticed, I had ARP Extended Studs, necessary if you do the swap I'd imagine with most OEM wheels (I used ITR wheels which are +50 offset I believe these would come in contact with the brackets without the studs and a spacer)

Spacer
In addition to the extended studs, I tossed on an 8mm spacer to clear the new calipers and their brackets - I just reused the same spacer from when I tossed the ITR wheels on my Accord.

Braking Fluid
I just used OEM fluids in it and it stops amazingly, later on I'll probably upgrade to ATF Blue Brake Fluid (racing fluid)

Rotors
The Brembo blank replacement rotors are topnotch for what they are and using the Wagon/V6 rotor gives you 9/10 " (from 10.2 to 11.1) in rotor size which greatly increases the area for the pad to rest on.

Pads
I just literally walked into Advanced Auto Parts and asked for 91 Acura NSX front brake pads (roughly $60 for all 4) and walked out, just quiet OEM replacement ones for the time being, I'll be looking into Hawkes or Cobalt Friction Pads in the future.

Wheels
I used an 15" OEM 96 Spec ITR Wheel which literally just barely clears the calipers (5mm at MOST!) And this would obviously be the smallest wheel you could run on this setup, we weren't 100% sure it would work with what I had

Results
Literally astonishing at the braking power now, incredibly improvement over the stock setup with no real hardcore mods (other than the rotor being pressed in). Everything bolts right up and shouldn't give you any problems, I would recommend however that everyone use at least a 16" wheel or else you'll cut it close, I don't think many 15" wheels will work with it.

NSX Caliper Upgrade =

 

very nice

 

that setup will look nice behind itr wheels, and I bet it performs well too!

 

Nice, you bought these from that green H22 cb7 right?

 

Most certainly did, performance is awesome and the brakes definitely fill up the wheel, I'll try to take some more pictures tonight while I'm working on stuff, the upgraded rotors are causing rubbing issues with the slammage

 

no roh coversion?

 

I already have my ROH conversion...maybe I should look into nsx calipers. IIRC, the NSX caliper will work with the stock bracket, the only reasons you changed it was to clear the larger rotors correct?

I would also suggest that you get the Stainless steel braided lines, I put them on with my stock calipers and I notice a huge reduction in brake fad over extended spirited driving sessions.

 

so how does the brake pedal feel? Solid? A bit soft? Just wondering how it feels with the added size up front without changing any other parts of the braking system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already have my ROH conversion...maybe I should look into nsx calipers. IIRC, the NSX caliper will work with the stock bracket, the only reasons you changed it was to clear the larger rotors correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the V6 caliper brackets but not the 4cyl brackets. That would make the wagon caliper bracket work as well right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would also suggest that you get the Stainless steel braided lines, I put them on with my stock calipers and I notice a huge reduction in brake fad over extended spirited driving sessions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not saying you didn't experience that change but.... When you swapped to the SS lines you also changed the brake fluid correct? How old was the fluid that was previously in there? You can see a big improvement when just flushing out the old fluid because it absorbs water which raises it's boiling point meaning more fade as the brakes get hotter, so replacing it would give a noticeable improvement.

Also, isn't SS lines primarily for pedal feel? not brake fade?

 

Ah forgot to mention that, pedal is a smidgen softer at the top inch or so of movement, then after that it's a damn rock.

No skidding, no rubber marks, just pure stopping power haha, gf was a little afraid when I did it last night.

The mechanic described it felt as if I already had stainless lines - I haven't messed with them so can't confirm that.

I also kept HOR for the setup, I would imagine the same stuff would work with ROH using the correct pieces - the V6 brackets probably wouldn't work.

It's not that much different for daily driving, it's just if you want a more solid stop, you can do it on a dime, I went from 35 &gt; 0 last night in literally one car length, if that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also kept HOR for the setup, I would imagine the same stuff would work with ROH using the correct pieces - the V6 brackets probably wouldn't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would have figured they would since you can use the AV6 caliper/bracket on the ROH swap as long as you are also upgrading the rotor diameter. You can do the ROH swap two ways, stock diameter rotor with stock caliper or larger diameter rotor with upgraded caliper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would have figured they would since you can use the AV6 caliper/bracket on the ROH swap as long as you are also upgrading the rotor diameter. You can do the ROH swap two ways, stock diameter rotor with stock caliper or larger diameter rotor with upgraded caliper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh can you?

I wasn't aware of that, if you can then I don't see why it wouldn't work. I looked into the RoH swap awhile back but thought it was too much trouble for what it was worth + I'm fine with dropping it off at a shop if I need new rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not saying you didn't experience that change but.... When you swapped to the SS lines you also changed the brake fluid correct? How old was the fluid that was previously in there? You can see a big improvement when just flushing out the old fluid because it absorbs water which raises it's boiling point meaning more fade as the brakes get hotter, so replacing it would give a noticeable improvement.

Also, isn't SS lines primarily for pedal feel? not brake fade?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know I havent posted here in a while, so you may not remember my progress thread. I did my ROH conversion and flushed the brake fluid. I drove the car for a few weeks till the new lines came, and when I installed them, I just toped up the brake fluid with that I used before (pennzoil DOT4 fluid). So, yes I noticed a diffrence between rubber lines and stainless lines.

About the brake lines, the stainless steel braid makes sure all/more of the pressure from the master goes to the caliper instead of expanding the rubber lines. I also noticed that with the old lines the fluid would sometimes bubble under the expansion of the rubber line.

Granted, this was only experience under racing/hard driving conditions. For daily driving, I wouldent bother upgrading just for the sake of having braided lines. Although, I know that muffinman likes to autox.

Muffinman, did you ever get your H22 swaped in? I kinda been outta the loop for a few months...

 

Yes sir, actually just got my power steering bracket put on as well

So it's a full complete swap save for cruise control, but I may ditch the steering wheel and go aftermarket so not a biggie.

Trying to upload picture of the dirty *** ITR wheels and the calipers.

Just found out laptop had a root kit on it so I've had to blow that away.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know I havent posted here in a while, so you may not remember my progress thread. I did my ROH conversion and flushed the brake fluid. I drove the car for a few weeks till the new lines came, and when I installed them, I just toped up the brake fluid with that I used before (pennzoil DOT4 fluid). So, yes I noticed a diffrence between rubber lines and stainless lines.

About the brake lines, the stainless steel braid makes sure all/more of the pressure from the master goes to the caliper instead of expanding the rubber lines. I also noticed that with the old lines the fluid would sometimes bubble under the expansion of the rubber line.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, I remember your thread

to me though, that sounds more like pedal feel.