Build Thread: 50$ Paint Job, EF style
11-01-2007, 08:17 PM
#51
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Re: (CW-R hatchback)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-R hatchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how on earth are you using a 6inch rolling and getting all the crevious...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You buy the matching spray paint so you can go over all the cracks with it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You buy the matching spray paint so you can go over all the cracks with it
11-01-2007, 08:24 PM
#52
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Re: (gourley)
i was trying to sift thru the damn 50$ paint thread but i can't find a good good write up for the life of me...
i'm assuming you do all your body work
but what kind of primer do you lay over your bondo?
what do you sand the car with originally...i wanna try this...i just need the guidelines lol
i'm assuming you do all your body work
but what kind of primer do you lay over your bondo?
what do you sand the car with originally...i wanna try this...i just need the guidelines lol
11-01-2007, 08:43 PM
#53
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Re: (CW-R hatchback)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-R hatchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was trying to sift thru the damn 50$ paint thread but i can't find a good good write up for the life of me...
i'm assuming you do all your body work
but what kind of primer do you lay over your bondo?
what do you sand the car with originally...i wanna try this...i just need the guidelines lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Need some guidelines as well! i have driver side quarter panel damage. i hit out as much as i can and i guess im going to just bondo the rest and primer it !
i'm assuming you do all your body work
but what kind of primer do you lay over your bondo?
what do you sand the car with originally...i wanna try this...i just need the guidelines lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Need some guidelines as well! i have driver side quarter panel damage. i hit out as much as i can and i guess im going to just bondo the rest and primer it !
11-01-2007, 11:28 PM
#54
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Re: (gourley)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gourley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im sure its safe if you give it a few hours to dry, but i wouldnt reccomend it. Bc I knwo if the paint doesnt dry for a good day it will peel up when sanding</TD></TR></TABLE>
it will have overnight...since the last coat imma do on friday is at like 5pm..and i dont work till 4pm the next day...
Im sure its safe if you give it a few hours to dry, but i wouldnt reccomend it. Bc I knwo if the paint doesnt dry for a good day it will peel up when sanding</TD></TR></TABLE>
it will have overnight...since the last coat imma do on friday is at like 5pm..and i dont work till 4pm the next day...
11-02-2007, 05:23 AM
#55
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Re: (CW-R hatchback)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-R hatchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was trying to sift thru the damn 50$ paint thread but i can't find a good good write up for the life of me...
i'm assuming you do all your body work
but what kind of primer do you lay over your bondo?
what do you sand the car with originally...i wanna try this...i just need the guidelines lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
The basic guid lines are as followed:
Prep:
1: Sand the whole car down with 80 Grit sand paper to remove paint (Donot sand down to the metal, only to the factory primer)
2: Resand with 320grit to smooth out all the gashes that the 80grit left behind
3: Fix any dents or body work that is needed, (if your applying bondo, sand the area around the dent all the way to the metal and then apply the bondo)
Painting:
1: Use a rattle can primer to go over any area's where you might of sanded down to the metal
2: Primer over the bondo
3: Wipe the WHOLE car down with Mineral Spirits and clean any dust/dirt/oil on the paint
4: Re-wipe the car down with a lint-free towel to remove any last dust/dirt/oil.
5: Mix up the Mineral Spirits and Paint accordingly to the humidity and temperature (I'm in 55* weather and 30-50% Humidity and I'm Mixing my mixture 60% paint 40% mineral spirits)
6: Dip your whole roller in the paint and roll most of the paint off the roller in the paint holder
7: Apply VERY thin coats of paint, trying not to overlap. (if you see bubbles you either mixed you paint wrong or your apply too much)
Drying/Waiting:
1: After you have laid your first coat down, depending on the weather, you should wait about 2-3 Hours before touching, and about 4 Hours before applying the second coat.
2: Wet sand after every two coats with 800Grit sandpaper to smooth out any air bubbles or orange peel.
Follow thies guidelines and you will have a 50$ paint job.
The routine im using is as followed:
Sand with 80
Resand with 320
Bondo/bodywork
Wipedown with mineral spirits
First Coat
Second Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Third Coat
Fourth Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Fifth Coat
Sixth Coat
Wetsand with 1000Grit
Wetsand with 2000Grit
Cut/Polish/Wax
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bleakdragonmage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it will have overnight...since the last coat imma do on friday is at like 5pm..and i dont work till 4pm the next day...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, you should be fine, just check to see if your paint is tacky. If not you should be fine. I wouldnt suggest driving on a highway or anything fast. Goodluck
i'm assuming you do all your body work
but what kind of primer do you lay over your bondo?
what do you sand the car with originally...i wanna try this...i just need the guidelines lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
The basic guid lines are as followed:
Prep:
1: Sand the whole car down with 80 Grit sand paper to remove paint (Donot sand down to the metal, only to the factory primer)
2: Resand with 320grit to smooth out all the gashes that the 80grit left behind
3: Fix any dents or body work that is needed, (if your applying bondo, sand the area around the dent all the way to the metal and then apply the bondo)
Painting:
1: Use a rattle can primer to go over any area's where you might of sanded down to the metal
2: Primer over the bondo
3: Wipe the WHOLE car down with Mineral Spirits and clean any dust/dirt/oil on the paint
4: Re-wipe the car down with a lint-free towel to remove any last dust/dirt/oil.
5: Mix up the Mineral Spirits and Paint accordingly to the humidity and temperature (I'm in 55* weather and 30-50% Humidity and I'm Mixing my mixture 60% paint 40% mineral spirits)
6: Dip your whole roller in the paint and roll most of the paint off the roller in the paint holder
7: Apply VERY thin coats of paint, trying not to overlap. (if you see bubbles you either mixed you paint wrong or your apply too much)
Drying/Waiting:
1: After you have laid your first coat down, depending on the weather, you should wait about 2-3 Hours before touching, and about 4 Hours before applying the second coat.
2: Wet sand after every two coats with 800Grit sandpaper to smooth out any air bubbles or orange peel.
Follow thies guidelines and you will have a 50$ paint job.
The routine im using is as followed:
Sand with 80
Resand with 320
Bondo/bodywork
Wipedown with mineral spirits
First Coat
Second Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Third Coat
Fourth Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Fifth Coat
Sixth Coat
Wetsand with 1000Grit
Wetsand with 2000Grit
Cut/Polish/Wax
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bleakdragonmage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it will have overnight...since the last coat imma do on friday is at like 5pm..and i dont work till 4pm the next day...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, you should be fine, just check to see if your paint is tacky. If not you should be fine. I wouldnt suggest driving on a highway or anything fast. Goodluck
11-02-2007, 07:06 AM
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Re: (satinsol)
nah its not fast...just like 40...i work like 2miles from my house...and its a busy street...
and i didnt know you had to primer over the bondo..i thought the rustoleum had the primer in it..
and i didnt know you had to primer over the bondo..i thought the rustoleum had the primer in it..
11-02-2007, 01:54 PM
#58
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Re: (bleakdragonmage)
very nice write-up and thanks for shooting a strait line on how to do this..
since this car was already painted once i opted to use 220 grit at first but then i used a 400 to smooth it out
but i'm not really at the primer at all
should i just get the 100 out and go to town and then 220 it after wards
i'll get some pics late my GF wants to hang damn it haha
since this car was already painted once i opted to use 220 grit at first but then i used a 400 to smooth it out
but i'm not really at the primer at all
should i just get the 100 out and go to town and then 220 it after wards
i'll get some pics late my GF wants to hang damn it haha
11-03-2007, 01:31 PM
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Re: (gourley)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gourley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Previews: (writeup later)
JHP FTW!
BTW Im done painting
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn! show us more!!! STOP HOLDING US UP
JHP FTW!
BTW Im done painting
</TD></TR></TABLE>damn! show us more!!! STOP HOLDING US UP
11-04-2007, 05:10 AM
#67
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Re: (bigluelok)
NO completed pictures yet, I'm saving them for later. The car is atuclly complete but it needs a lot of touchup stuff. I didnt wetsand buff/polish/cut it yet because Im waiting for the paint to cure.
IMO The paint looks good, but needs the final sanding and buff/polish/cut. It does have a gloss to it now but not enough. I still have to paint the door jams and all the interior metal, I hate looking at a white outside and a red inside.
Putting on the final coat:
I foundout twords the end that its better to lay the paint on thick on one spot, let it sit then roll over it agan to remove the air bubbles and the extra paint. It does create orange peel but you can remove that with sanding.
Heres a overall shot of the paint finished
Again looks glossy but it needs more work.
Rolling on the final coat:
You can see how thick im putting it on then I would roll over it in a few minutes and it would remove all the bubbles and extra paint.
Starting to assemble: Front lights on and filler piece. BTW: WTB clear corners for a 89 Civic Hatch and Clear bumper Len's for a 89 civic Hatch.
The rear is completly togeather . I missed my car, two weeks I had to drive my G/F's car. Also, WTB Rear Middle garnish, JDM one please.
Duckbill is done, shitty picture. W/B was off and the lighting was terrible lol.
Another shot, looks ok, needs some touchup and work. Next time I would prolly paint it with a wagner paint gun, Smoother results prolly.
All in all it was a fun expierence. I learned alot and I also am on my way to making my car how I want it. This project is deffientally for a DIY'er at heart, or if your a baller on a budget. It will no means comeout like a professional paint job at first but after you detail and finish the paint it possibly could.
Ill post more pictures later and maybe completed pictures.
BTW: I ordered my struts a week ago and I got a tracking number yesterday, which means I wont be getting my struts for another week. Stupied EBAY company's with 99.9% rateing. Thats going to change fast =P
IMO The paint looks good, but needs the final sanding and buff/polish/cut. It does have a gloss to it now but not enough. I still have to paint the door jams and all the interior metal, I hate looking at a white outside and a red inside.
Putting on the final coat:
I foundout twords the end that its better to lay the paint on thick on one spot, let it sit then roll over it agan to remove the air bubbles and the extra paint. It does create orange peel but you can remove that with sanding.
Heres a overall shot of the paint finished
Again looks glossy but it needs more work.
Rolling on the final coat:
You can see how thick im putting it on then I would roll over it in a few minutes and it would remove all the bubbles and extra paint.
Starting to assemble: Front lights on and filler piece. BTW: WTB clear corners for a 89 Civic Hatch and Clear bumper Len's for a 89 civic Hatch.
The rear is completly togeather
. I missed my car, two weeks I had to drive my G/F's car. Also, WTB Rear Middle garnish, JDM one please.Duckbill is done, shitty picture. W/B was off and the lighting was terrible lol.
Another shot, looks ok, needs some touchup and work. Next time I would prolly paint it with a wagner paint gun, Smoother results prolly.
All in all it was a fun expierence. I learned alot and I also am on my way to making my car how I want it. This project is deffientally for a DIY'er at heart, or if your a baller on a budget. It will no means comeout like a professional paint job at first but after you detail and finish the paint it possibly could.
Ill post more pictures later and maybe completed pictures.
BTW: I ordered my struts a week ago and I got a tracking number yesterday, which means I wont be getting my struts for another week. Stupied EBAY company's with 99.9% rateing. Thats going to change fast =P
11-04-2007, 09:02 AM
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Re: (gourley)
ive got the same red 89 std as u but i swaped a b16 in it. Im in the middle of going turbo and shooting for over 400whp with a mild setup. But im painting my std the same rustoleom gloss white after my roll cage goes in next week. I love ur car and all EF's FTW. Way To be a DIYer. cant wait for the final pics.
11-04-2007, 01:07 PM
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Re: (gourley)
came out better then i thought great work now sand that bitch down and polish and let see that shine also are u gonna put a red pinstripe on your moldings?
Modified by da9wonder at 2:40 PM 11/4/2007
also are u gonna put a red pinstripe on your moldings?Modified by da9wonder at 2:40 PM 11/4/2007
11-04-2007, 02:11 PM
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Re: (da9wonder)
that actualy looks really good bro.
after a cut and buff it will look even better
remember to give it about a month before you seal it in some wax
after a cut and buff it will look even better
remember to give it about a month before you seal it in some wax
11-04-2007, 02:39 PM
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Re: (da9wonder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by da9wonder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">came out better then i thought great work now sand that bitch down and polish and let see that shine also are u gonna put a red pinstripe on your moldings?
Modified by da9wonder at 2:40 PM 11/4/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
YEA!! not sure if i wanna do red or a different color. Maybe yellow or something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 503_EF9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that actualy looks really good bro.
after a cut and buff it will look even better
remember to give it about a month before you seal it in some wax </TD></TR></TABLE>
IO was wondering how long I should wait for wax. Should I cut and buff after I sand which will be in a few days, or should I wait a little more to sand/cut/buff??
also are u gonna put a red pinstripe on your moldings?Modified by da9wonder at 2:40 PM 11/4/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
YEA!! not sure if i wanna do red or a different color. Maybe yellow or something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 503_EF9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that actualy looks really good bro.
after a cut and buff it will look even better
remember to give it about a month before you seal it in some wax </TD></TR></TABLE>
IO was wondering how long I should wait for wax. Should I cut and buff after I sand which will be in a few days, or should I wait a little more to sand/cut/buff??
11-04-2007, 04:37 PM
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Re: Build Thread: 50$ Paint Job, EF style (JDMB0YS)
you should be able ot cut and buff/polish about 2 weeks afterwords. dont use clay polish glaze and wax until about a month after.
id search around a little more im sure other people have better methods. and read the direction on that paint cuz the time periods im using are for a proffesional job. it depends on the clear and paint ect.
id search around a little more im sure other people have better methods. and read the direction on that paint cuz the time periods im using are for a proffesional job. it depends on the clear and paint ect.
11-04-2007, 10:52 PM
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Re: (gourley)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gourley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
YEA!! not sure if i wanna do red or a different color. Maybe yellow or something.
IO was wondering how long I should wait for wax. Should I cut and buff after I sand which will be in a few days, or should I wait a little more to sand/cut/buff??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think u should go with red :D
and u should wait a month b4 u sand IMO
YEA!! not sure if i wanna do red or a different color. Maybe yellow or something.
IO was wondering how long I should wait for wax. Should I cut and buff after I sand which will be in a few days, or should I wait a little more to sand/cut/buff??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think u should go with red :D
and u should wait a month b4 u sand IMO