94civicCx

Anyone ever heard of this or use this product? http://www.heldmotorsports.com...s.htm

foumer

wow they even have the rear trailing arms. I bet they are not cheap. Why dont you call them and find out the price

slammed_93_hatch

if you search they have been brought up before

Chim Chim

I've tried calling and e-mailing them about a month ago and I did get a reply through e-mail, but they never answered my question about how much they cost. Good luck getting them to answer their phone.

bsclywilly

This is the email I got from them:

Will,

The front spindles are $529 and the rear arms are $429. The weights are similar to OEM.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Lee Waldmiller
HT Motorsports
616-893-1433

Chim Chim

The only questions he answered for me were color selection,brake selection, bushing material, and clearance with my current set of rims...

For that ammount of money, did you take the plunge? That's practically the cost of a koni/gc setup...

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Total waste of money IMO. The OEM suspension was designed to be lowered. Thats why the Type-Rs use the exact same geometry as the regular civics & tegs. I personally believe that is the reason Civics & Tegs don't experience large camber gain through suspension compression like the larger luxury sedans. I got -2.5* front -1.5* rear from lowering 2.5" in my EG.

Also, if there was a geometry problem with lowering these cars, road-racers wouldn't do it (at least on stock suspensions)...

bsclywilly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also, if there was a geometry problem with lowering these cars, road-racers wouldn't do it (at least on stock suspensions)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

There might be a problem but running very stiff rates limits suspension movement so the kinematics (change in geometry) do not have such an adverse effect. But that is a compromise because a very stiff suspension does not help keep the tire in contact with the road as well as a soft setup.

However, looking at the suspension on our double wishbone civics, you do not run into problems with huge RC migration until the car is lowered below 12" measured hubcenter-fender. But again that depends on how stiff springs and bar you're running. If you get alot of body roll and are lowered, then any weird things your suspension is doing, it's doing more of. Camber control doesn't get affected as much with lowering but obviously your static camber changes like 94eg! pointed out.

TunerN00b

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94civicCx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone ever heard of this or use this product? http://www.heldmotorsports.com...s.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

The reason not to use such "drop knuckles" (term I'm used to from friend's with mini-trucks) is because on our cars, the tire will start rubbing at about the same suspension compression that the shock bottoms out, or the UCA hits the inner fender (if using extended travel upper shock mounts). So, instead of the shock hitting the bumpstop and quickly stopping the suspension compression, if you were to bottom out with a lowering knuckle you'd just shred the tire in the metal fender. How to keep the tire from contacting first with a lowering knuckle? Run smaller diameter than stock sized tires, throwing the speedo off, and increasing the fender gap, which then makes the owner want to go lower to correct the appearance.

Basically, we can't win with a Civic/integra front suspension, since Honda designed it with rather limited travel stock, and for everything to have exactly the space it needs within that limited travel. I run my GSR with a 2 finger front gap, because thats how much travel I need to not bottom out, even with my 400 lbs/in springs, and even then I do bottom out the UCA from time to time.

bsclywilly

Whether you are using these lowering spindles or coilovers to lower your vehicle, you still need check your bump stop height to make sure you are not bottoming out on anything else other than your bump stop. I would say it is more harmful to be bottoming out on your UCA/frame than it would be if your tire was just getting stuffed into the fender. Either way, when you lower your car, do a simple check without the spring installed and make sure your bump stop is doing what it's supposed to do - prevent other interferences in your suspension.

And if you have to run that super low ride height and you're hitting your bumpstops all the time, get stiffer springs.

I would agree that they're probably not worth the money unless you're looking for some trick unique setup that no one else has. I'd consider getting them if they saved me 15lbs per corner though, but I have an unhealthy obsession with reducing weight

94civicCx

So this is basically an bad idea... I was thinking lowering with this and maybe some ITR shock spring combo to maybe lower it -.5 or so..&lt;- might be off.. then i thought (for the price..well over $900+} wow maybe i'm just doing all this for just an stock feel...