gsr not going into gear at high rpm
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gsr not going into gear at high rpm
i was on the free way and i accelerated up to about 5krpm and tried to gear from 2nd to 3rd. and it wouldnt go in. i tried every other gear, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th. none let me go in. when i forced it, it would grind. i have no idea wants going on can someone help? below is a list of things that i noticed and have done in chronological order:
3 year ago: changed clutch and flywheel. OEM to exedy organic + heavy duty pressure plate. ACT 12lb flywheel.
1 year ago to now: clutch pedal squeaks and makes noises upon descent and
ascent.
6 months ago: changed transmission oil ( went from HONDA to GM synchromesh, the synthetic kind)
2 weeks ago: could not go into gear at high rpm. i would have to wait for the rev to drop before i can shift again. regular shifting right now feels a little difficult to go in ( it is not smooth anymore). 2nd gear sometimes feel like it doesnt disengage all the way but only at high rpm. That night, I did an entire flush on the clutch fluid with ATE superblue. The immediate response felt stiff and firm.
today: I test drove the car. the pedal feels like it was before the clutch fluid flush. it is hard to get into gear at high revs, but not as bad as before the flush.
What i suspect: blown clutch master cylinder. something fell off inside side the transmission. blown clutch.
I don't think there's a leak in the hydraulic clutch system. i popped the hood and I dont see any fluid leaking.
3 year ago: changed clutch and flywheel. OEM to exedy organic + heavy duty pressure plate. ACT 12lb flywheel.
1 year ago to now: clutch pedal squeaks and makes noises upon descent and
ascent.
6 months ago: changed transmission oil ( went from HONDA to GM synchromesh, the synthetic kind)
2 weeks ago: could not go into gear at high rpm. i would have to wait for the rev to drop before i can shift again. regular shifting right now feels a little difficult to go in ( it is not smooth anymore). 2nd gear sometimes feel like it doesnt disengage all the way but only at high rpm. That night, I did an entire flush on the clutch fluid with ATE superblue. The immediate response felt stiff and firm.
today: I test drove the car. the pedal feels like it was before the clutch fluid flush. it is hard to get into gear at high revs, but not as bad as before the flush.
What i suspect: blown clutch master cylinder. something fell off inside side the transmission. blown clutch.
I don't think there's a leak in the hydraulic clutch system. i popped the hood and I dont see any fluid leaking.
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (Dogginator)
no, the car gets into gear at idle and when the engine is off fine. i do not think it is a shift linkage problem if that's what u are getting at. I also read a lot of threads on this forum and all of them seems to be linkage related.
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (tekstyle)
i took a closer look at the car. under the hood, everything looks great. no leaks, everything is secured, dry, and bolted down. no cracks in the clutch hose.
under the dash, the master cylinder squeeks. i see around the rubber that it is wet. I also notice that the farthest down it can go leaves about 3/4 to 1/2 of the rod exposed. also, the rod doesn't seem to be pushing into the MC straight on. here's some pics:
this pic is side ways. rotate it CW. this pic is the trail of stuff that is leaking.
under the dash, the master cylinder squeeks. i see around the rubber that it is wet. I also notice that the farthest down it can go leaves about 3/4 to 1/2 of the rod exposed. also, the rod doesn't seem to be pushing into the MC straight on. here's some pics:
this pic is side ways. rotate it CW. this pic is the trail of stuff that is leaking.
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Re: (DB8-teggy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DB8-teggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually i think its ur snycros</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do u suspect it is my synchro? double shifting doesnt help.
why do u suspect it is my synchro? double shifting doesnt help.
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (tekstyle)
if u look at the top picture it looks like ur clutch master is leaking.
my opinion is that its ur clutch master. Can u get the car in gear with the
motor running? Can u even drive the car?
my opinion is that its ur clutch master. Can u get the car in gear with the
motor running? Can u even drive the car?
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (rebelteggy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rebelteggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u look at the top picture it looks like ur clutch master is leaking.
my opinion is that its ur clutch master. Can u get the car in gear with the
motor running? Can u even drive the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i can get the car into gear while the motor is running, the car drives. i just have difficulty shifting. and it doesnt go into gear when the RPM is high at about 5k and up.
my opinion is that its ur clutch master. Can u get the car in gear with the
motor running? Can u even drive the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i can get the car into gear while the motor is running, the car drives. i just have difficulty shifting. and it doesnt go into gear when the RPM is high at about 5k and up.
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (tekstyle)
definitely a bad clutch master. Time to get a new one, while u are at it u can pick up the omnipower one
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (rukawa1one)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rukawa1one »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitely a bad clutch master. Time to get a new one, while u are at it u can pick up the omnipower one</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just picked up the omni and installed it. i can shift better overall, but i still grind 3rd. i think the problem is still there. does anyone know what's going on? i believe i did a proper bleed. kept the reservoir topped off, hand pump the clutch first until fluid came out the other end. it feels really stiff and the pedal stroke is very short.
Modified by tekstyle at 3:15 AM 11/5/2006
I just picked up the omni and installed it. i can shift better overall, but i still grind 3rd. i think the problem is still there. does anyone know what's going on? i believe i did a proper bleed. kept the reservoir topped off, hand pump the clutch first until fluid came out the other end. it feels really stiff and the pedal stroke is very short.
Modified by tekstyle at 3:15 AM 11/5/2006
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (tekstyle)
its probably ur third gear syncro, same thing happend to me after changing my clutch, master, and slave. Third gear sycros suck in our cars
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (sumyungguy)
Yea for sure its the synchro. How many miles are on the trans?
I know I lost third gear completely before the trans finally went.
I know I lost third gear completely before the trans finally went.
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Re: gsr not going into gear at high rpm (2ndgentegracer)
almost 90k. i used to do a lot of quick shifting and heel-toe down shifting. does that make go bad faster? how much would a shop charge to replace synchro? i can take the tranny down myself.
#20
do you have a short shifter?
usually a short shifter will kill your syncros cause they are used in the wrong way
they are made to make a normal speed shift but they are shorter to make it go quicker. people usually get them thinking cause it makes the gear shorter to shift into, then they can shift faster, and it wears on the syncros
may not be your case but some insight by me
usually a short shifter will kill your syncros cause they are used in the wrong way
they are made to make a normal speed shift but they are shorter to make it go quicker. people usually get them thinking cause it makes the gear shorter to shift into, then they can shift faster, and it wears on the syncros
may not be your case but some insight by me
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have you left your car unused for a long period of time? you might want to try this out before you do anything expensive...
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...ion=4
might not do a whole lot but if it does it'll save you a good amount of cash.
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...ion=4
might not do a whole lot but if it does it'll save you a good amount of cash.
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Re: (magicaltrout)
Sounds to me like your synchros are going out.
I've had a similar problem. I threw in an exedy stage 1 clutch and a lightweight flywheel, then swapped my fluid to redline synthetic.(which is a big no-no by the way) And after that my synchros started to go, if i was at a high speed/rpm trying to shift down or up, it would grind.
Come to find out that the redline oil was way too thin and burnt up my synchros. So i went back to Honda. Now it doesn't grind at high speeds, but it still does grind everyonce in a while.
I've had a similar problem. I threw in an exedy stage 1 clutch and a lightweight flywheel, then swapped my fluid to redline synthetic.(which is a big no-no by the way) And after that my synchros started to go, if i was at a high speed/rpm trying to shift down or up, it would grind.
Come to find out that the redline oil was way too thin and burnt up my synchros. So i went back to Honda. Now it doesn't grind at high speeds, but it still does grind everyonce in a while.
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Re: (VtecAdvantage)
Does the pedal clutch vibrate at Idle?
I'm pretty sure its your clutch springs. At least it was on mine.. I had the same problem. If I needed to accellerate I'd be SOL over 4.5k on any gear.. I'd need to wait till the revs dropped back down to shift.
I'm pretty sure its your clutch springs. At least it was on mine.. I had the same problem. If I needed to accellerate I'd be SOL over 4.5k on any gear.. I'd need to wait till the revs dropped back down to shift.
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Re: (Jay J)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay J »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the pedal clutch vibrate at Idle?
I'm pretty sure its your clutch springs. At least it was on mine.. I had the same problem. If I needed to accellerate I'd be SOL over 4.5k on any gear.. I'd need to wait till the revs dropped back down to shift. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no vibration, nothing is wrong with the spring. if that was the case, i would have problems in every gear. also i just replaced the MC with the omnipower MC and the thing is MaD StIfF haha.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magicaltrout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you left your car unused for a long period of time? you might want to try this out before you do anything expensive...
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...ion=4
might not do a whole lot but if it does it'll save you a good amount of cash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the tip. i shall go try it out in a bit. can i do this in my garage with the e brake up or do i must do it outside and let the car creep?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beau Gotti »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a short shifter?
usually a short shifter will kill your syncros cause they are used in the wrong way
they are made to make a normal speed shift but they are shorter to make it go quicker. people usually get them thinking cause it makes the gear shorter to shift into, then they can shift faster, and it wears on the syncros
may not be your case but some insight by me</TD></TR></TABLE>
no short shifter. currently the car has a y80 tranny with:
-urethane shifter bushings
-12lb ACT chromoly flywheel
- exedy organic clutch with HD pressure plate
- GM synchromesh
- omnipower MC
- JDM type r LSD
are the y80 and s80 transmission bell housings the same?
I'm pretty sure its your clutch springs. At least it was on mine.. I had the same problem. If I needed to accellerate I'd be SOL over 4.5k on any gear.. I'd need to wait till the revs dropped back down to shift. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no vibration, nothing is wrong with the spring. if that was the case, i would have problems in every gear. also i just replaced the MC with the omnipower MC and the thing is MaD StIfF haha.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magicaltrout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you left your car unused for a long period of time? you might want to try this out before you do anything expensive...
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...ion=4
might not do a whole lot but if it does it'll save you a good amount of cash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the tip. i shall go try it out in a bit. can i do this in my garage with the e brake up or do i must do it outside and let the car creep?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beau Gotti »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a short shifter?
usually a short shifter will kill your syncros cause they are used in the wrong way
they are made to make a normal speed shift but they are shorter to make it go quicker. people usually get them thinking cause it makes the gear shorter to shift into, then they can shift faster, and it wears on the syncros
may not be your case but some insight by me</TD></TR></TABLE>
no short shifter. currently the car has a y80 tranny with:
-urethane shifter bushings
-12lb ACT chromoly flywheel
- exedy organic clutch with HD pressure plate
- GM synchromesh
- omnipower MC
- JDM type r LSD
are the y80 and s80 transmission bell housings the same?
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I think your syncros are fine. Ill bet that your clutch disc is your problem. The oem exedy is sprung and sometimes those springs either melt or break from the disc. This would lead to it being like you didnt push the clutch in. Making it kinda difficult to shift. But then again it will work sometimes. It will work when it wants to go in a out. I had the same problem and turned out when i removed my clutch disc a spring fell on the gound.