P28 ECU problem... fried?
06-09-2006, 11:53 AM
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P28 ECU problem... fried?
Just bought a p28 (obd1) ecu that was socketed/chipped, but after inspection.. something is blown.. could someone tell me what this is and is this ecu still workable? The seller said it was working fine. (ls/vtec setup)
06-09-2006, 01:16 PM
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popped Q31, the IAT and EVAP purge connectors being swapped will cause this.
Depending on your state, if it has strict emissions standards, you may need Q31 functional. If not, you should be fine.
Depending on your state, if it has strict emissions standards, you may need Q31 functional. If not, you should be fine.
06-09-2006, 01:41 PM
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make 100% sure you didn't melt the IAT sensor at the same time (it usually does)
D1780 - http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...D1780
D1780 - http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...D1780
06-09-2006, 03:06 PM
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Re: (Relic1)
so will my ecu work or does it not work with that fried? i dont really kno wat the purge connector is that ur talking about thanks
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06-10-2006, 08:11 AM
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the IAT fried ur probably going to run rich...get it replaced...</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats true.
when its fried the resistance will be unlimited..... and by the resistance graph of the iat you can see that the higher the resistance the lower the temp. (its an ntc resistor)
this reason will cause it to run rich....
thats true.
when its fried the resistance will be unlimited..... and by the resistance graph of the iat you can see that the higher the resistance the lower the temp. (its an ntc resistor)
this reason will cause it to run rich....
06-10-2006, 03:42 PM
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Re: (RACEPAK)
so basically can i run my ecu like this and im just going to run rich? or should i email the seller and tell him that i want a refund? only problem is idk if he will give me one and therefore idk if paypal will automatically deduct the money from his account? any suggestions?
06-10-2006, 09:36 PM
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IF your IAT is fried then yes the car will run like it's -40F outside.
but that's a maybe. the IAT could be ok. Only way to be sure is you test it with a meter.
but that's a maybe. the IAT could be ok. Only way to be sure is you test it with a meter.
06-11-2006, 02:29 PM
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Re: (Relic1)
okay so where exaclty should i hook up a meter to it? or should i not even bother and send the ecu back just in case? thanks
06-12-2006, 06:54 AM
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Re: (MBlake55)
bump i need some more opinions on this guys, i thought that i would be running really rich and that could def be really bad, but does anyone have this problem and kno if it is true or not? let me kno thanks
06-12-2006, 07:42 AM
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pull the connector from the IAT, connect ohm meter to the sensor.
0.4-4.0K ohms is what the manual says. If it's in there connect the connectors correctly and you should be ok.
you may want to remove the burnt part from the ECU, simply rock it back and froth till it snaps out of place then toss it. The ECU will not set a code or run differently due to that.
0.4-4.0K ohms is what the manual says. If it's in there connect the connectors correctly and you should be ok.
you may want to remove the burnt part from the ECU, simply rock it back and froth till it snaps out of place then toss it. The ECU will not set a code or run differently due to that.
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