Full Race cage
10-09-2005, 08:38 PM
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Full Race cage
Has anybody used the six point cage sold by full race? Im in the market for a roll cage and i came across the one there selling that is pre fabed and the title said all thats needed is to get welded in. I would like to know any likes dis likes and how easy was the install. For $700 you cant beat it.
10-09-2005, 08:56 PM
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Re: Full Race cage (Andrea)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrea »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have one. Excellent cage, great fitment. I have pics of it installed if you'd like to see some. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be great if you could. oh and would you know what speed is that cage legal for and does it come with the plates and is the main hoop marked where the legs (dont know if thats whats it's called) get welded to. basicly i want to weld it in myself, i know how to weld but dont know **** about roll cages and chassy building lol
That would be great if you could. oh and would you know what speed is that cage legal for and does it come with the plates and is the main hoop marked where the legs (dont know if thats whats it's called) get welded to. basicly i want to weld it in myself, i know how to weld but dont know **** about roll cages and chassy building lol
10-09-2005, 09:19 PM
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Re: Full Race cage (JdmEKCivic)
<U>6 point bar</U> like the Full Race set up is good for up to 10.00 and/or 135 MPH. After that you need to go with the <U>6 point cage</U> with a window net. You can start with the 6 point bar then step up once you are ready, or you can go ahead and go with the 6 point cage. A lot of people opt to do this at the begining of the project, because if you want it to be a truly "clean" cage job the dash and front windshield should be removed.
Either way,
Good luck
Jason
Either way,
Good luck
Jason
10-10-2005, 02:14 AM
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Re: Full Race cage (SFWD 1934)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><U>6 point bar</U> like the Full Race set up is good for up to 10.00 and/or 135 MPH. After that you need to go with the <U>6 point cage</U> with a window net. You can start with the 6 point bar then step up once you are ready, or you can go ahead and go with the 6 point cage. A lot of people opt to do this at the begining of the project, because if you want it to be a truly "clean" cage job the dash and front windshield should be removed.
Either way,
Good luck
Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there a difference between a six point bar and a six point cage? also is it true that if you want to go faster then 10.0 or 135mph that all you would need to do is add 4 more points and net, extinguisher?
Either way,
Good luck
Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there a difference between a six point bar and a six point cage? also is it true that if you want to go faster then 10.0 or 135mph that all you would need to do is add 4 more points and net, extinguisher?
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10-10-2005, 06:54 PM
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Re: (rhd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on if you go wiht cro-moly or mild...
for a street car...it's smarter to go with mild since cro-moly can be brittle</TD></TR></TABLE>
cro-moly
for a street car...it's smarter to go with mild since cro-moly can be brittle</TD></TR></TABLE>
cro-moly
10-10-2005, 08:04 PM
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kens kustom chassis in PA sells 6pts for a lot cheaper... and only heard good things from them. it is where I plan on getting mine from.
10-10-2005, 08:52 PM
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Re: (rhd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd deff suggest against any kind of cro-moly cage/bar in a street car........</TD></TR></TABLE>
its a drag car
its a drag car
10-11-2005, 01:16 AM
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Re: (towvtec)
for a six point i believe that full race is the best. remember that this is prefrabricated and cad bent whatever u call it. i believe that this is probably the lighter ones on the market. the other companies are cool but weigh considerably more. they are straight bars so i believe that makes them stronger... the more the bends, the weaker the metal. if u are tig certified then go ahead. not only is chromoly lighter, but also stronger inch for inch.
10-11-2005, 09:55 AM
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Re: (choiboiracing)
6 point chromoly cage from S&W is $349. Mild steel is $169.
S&W 10 point (chro-mo) is getting installed in my car as we speak. With two swing out door bar kits, it ran me 620 shipped.
S&W 10 point (chro-mo) is getting installed in my car as we speak. With two swing out door bar kits, it ran me 620 shipped.
10-11-2005, 10:01 AM
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Re: (rhd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want a really NICE bar, just get a custom piece
if you want to by the pre-fab stuff...you should contact Art Morrison.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah a custom piece would be nice but the local shop in my area quoted me $5500 for a cage and some lexan
. Then i came across the full race, and kens cages so i can save myself at least $4000 buy going this rout
if you want to by the pre-fab stuff...you should contact Art Morrison.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah a custom piece would be nice but the local shop in my area quoted me $5500 for a cage and some lexan
. Then i came across the full race, and kens cages so i can save myself at least $4000 buy going this rout
10-11-2005, 10:18 AM
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Re: (rhd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd deff suggest against any kind of cro-moly cage/bar in a street car........</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need to hear a little more of the logic behind this... Maybe it is good logic... maybe not... but I definitely would like to hear it.
Modified by Billy T. at 3:52 PM 10/11/2005
I need to hear a little more of the logic behind this... Maybe it is good logic... maybe not... but I definitely would like to hear it.
Modified by Billy T. at 3:52 PM 10/11/2005
10-11-2005, 07:20 PM
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Re: (Billy T.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Billy T. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to hear a little more of the logic behind this... Maybe it is good logic... maybe not... but I definitely would like to hear it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
#1 cro-moly needs to be pre and post heated while being tigged in..that's NOT cheap labor
#2 cro-moly is a much more brittle metal than mild...and the costant flex of a street car could weaken the the bars
#3 being that it's brittle...cro-moly is more likely to break, than bend...AS much as mild, not saying it'll shatter on impact...but the likely hood of a broken car is more
#4 cro-moly is more expensive, that's a large bearing on a lot of street cars and poor ppl like me
now, i'm not metalugist..but i've worked wiht several NASCAR chassis guys that do various outher classes of drag/track racing...and that's pretty much what all of the cage/chassis guys suggested towards me and gave me as reasoning.
take it for what it's worth
#1 cro-moly needs to be pre and post heated while being tigged in..that's NOT cheap labor
#2 cro-moly is a much more brittle metal than mild...and the costant flex of a street car could weaken the the bars
#3 being that it's brittle...cro-moly is more likely to break, than bend...AS much as mild, not saying it'll shatter on impact...but the likely hood of a broken car is more
#4 cro-moly is more expensive, that's a large bearing on a lot of street cars and poor ppl like me
now, i'm not metalugist..but i've worked wiht several NASCAR chassis guys that do various outher classes of drag/track racing...and that's pretty much what all of the cage/chassis guys suggested towards me and gave me as reasoning.
take it for what it's worth
10-11-2005, 08:07 PM
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Re: (rhd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#1 cro-moly needs to be pre and post heated while being tigged in..that's NOT cheap labor
#2 cro-moly is a much more brittle metal than mild...and the costant flex of a street car could weaken the the bars
#3 being that it's brittle...cro-moly is more likely to break, than bend...AS much as mild, not saying it'll shatter on impact...but the likely hood of a broken car is more
#4 cro-moly is more expensive, that's a large bearing on a lot of street cars and poor ppl like me
now, i'm not metalugist..but i've worked wiht several NASCAR chassis guys that do various outher classes of drag/track racing...and that's pretty much what all of the cage/chassis guys suggested towards me and gave me as reasoning.
take it for what it's worth</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like some decent logic. Need to research it a bit for myslef, though. As far as my car, it is a street car, but it really doesn't get driven that much.
#2 cro-moly is a much more brittle metal than mild...and the costant flex of a street car could weaken the the bars
#3 being that it's brittle...cro-moly is more likely to break, than bend...AS much as mild, not saying it'll shatter on impact...but the likely hood of a broken car is more
#4 cro-moly is more expensive, that's a large bearing on a lot of street cars and poor ppl like me
now, i'm not metalugist..but i've worked wiht several NASCAR chassis guys that do various outher classes of drag/track racing...and that's pretty much what all of the cage/chassis guys suggested towards me and gave me as reasoning.
take it for what it's worth</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like some decent logic. Need to research it a bit for myslef, though. As far as my car, it is a street car, but it really doesn't get driven that much.
10-18-2005, 06:23 PM
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Re: (JdmEKCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmEKCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah a custom piece would be nice but the local shop in my area quoted me $5500 for a cage and some lexan . Then i came across the full race, and kens cages so i can save myself at least $4000 buy going this rout</TD></TR></TABLE>
$5500????? Holy ****!
IMO, there's some slight misinformation posted above. 4130 is definitely a stronger material than 1020 (Mild Steel). By definition it's more "brittle" however, if the weld process was done correctly, the 4130 should hold together LONG after 1020 has failed.
With steel prices being what they are these days, the $ gap between 1020 and 4130 has narrowed significantly (at least here in the midwest).
Check your rule books... some SCCA club racing classes no longer offer the weight advantage for alloys in new cages.... same thickness for 1020 as 4130 which means the same weight. Wouldn't surprise me if this doesn't start happening across the board in other sanctioning bodies...
Yeah a custom piece would be nice but the local shop in my area quoted me $5500 for a cage and some lexan
. Then i came across the full race, and kens cages so i can save myself at least $4000 buy going this rout</TD></TR></TABLE>$5500????? Holy ****!
IMO, there's some slight misinformation posted above. 4130 is definitely a stronger material than 1020 (Mild Steel). By definition it's more "brittle" however, if the weld process was done correctly, the 4130 should hold together LONG after 1020 has failed.
With steel prices being what they are these days, the $ gap between 1020 and 4130 has narrowed significantly (at least here in the midwest).
Check your rule books... some SCCA club racing classes no longer offer the weight advantage for alloys in new cages.... same thickness for 1020 as 4130 which means the same weight. Wouldn't surprise me if this doesn't start happening across the board in other sanctioning bodies...