Honda Bull

What do you mean "toasted"? Is it more than just coming out in pieces?

Well, replace the case. If you still have issues after replacing the case, it's time to replace the assembler. There are so many factors in this issue at this point, things that could have happened, and work that could have been done incorrectly (not saying it was yet) that it's almost impossible for any of us to know the issue 100% without the trans in front of us to diagnose ourselves.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Yeah that's 100% the plan. If it's not right when I get it back this time I'm sending it out as is to be diagnosed so I can recoup some money by other means.

91SIR

I feel your pain I just did the same thing. Auto jack shaft broke diff all of It. I replaced all damaged bearings and diff. Got it all together and input shaft would not turn.

After tear down after tear down I finally took it the the tranny shop my work uses and I'm getting it back today good as new. Lesson learned don't force a jack shaft and leave the transmissions to the pros.

Mista Bone

8/15/2014 - Friday
1:56 am Departed FedEx location HAGERSTOWN, MD

Knock Knock....Sign here please

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Jack shaft?

sleepinonacreeper

I've actually had this happen building transmissions. Not all of the differential pockets in the b series bell housings are the same dimensions and some diffs will hang up in the pocket but its near impossible to see with the ring gear on. The fix is as simple as taking a die grinder to the areas that need more clearance.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Didn't force it at all though. It bolted down plenty easy. Had it given me resistance I would have stopped!

Picked it up Saturday, dropped it off to him Monday. he's gonna try it with my outer case first, if it won't spin I'll just use the welded one you sent.

Half shaft, intermediate shaft, jack shaft all are acceptable synonyms.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Dropped case off Monday. JUST got it back today. BUT all seems well. No binding at all. Installing tomorrow after work so I don't have to rush anything. Then hopefully doing a calm drive to test everything before melting my tires and living up to my screen name.



Hopefully the saga of the GS-R from hell is over. If not... I'M fixing this ****** myself LOL.

ktang

iTrader: (1)

Let us know how this turns out. Hopefully the install and drive go well.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Everything is well. Install went smooth as silk. Broke an axle on the first drive but that was me being a douch downshifting to second and HAMMERING it. Sixty dollars and a new beefier axle later and all is well. THANKS SO MUCH TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME FIGURE THIS **** OUT! ! !

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

you already snapped an axel? On a sttock motor?

You either can't drive worth ****.

Or something else is wrong.

Still on my first set of axels from 5 or 7 years ago.

350whp. With slicks never snapped an axel 3rd gear burnouts.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

I think it was already on the way out. It was 14 years old...Plus I'm geting used to this lightened flywheel stage 2 clutch combo... ****'s like a light switch LOL. First gear is SO useless.

Pullig

How did you fix this ? I'm having the exact same issue.

98 spec itr with stock lsd. All new bearings synchros sleeves

It goes in all gear has a slight catchy bind in certain spots when rotating and obviously has a knocking noise neutral and in gear.

The case went down all the way before any bolts put in

Only thing diff shims were at 0 clearance couldn't fit a feeler gauge in. Please help I

holmesnmanny

Sounds like you didnt remove the shim before measuring.

Pullig

You are correct I didn't remove the shim. This was just an oem rebuild with synchrotech carbons and their other parts and bearings.

No other parts added or changed. I shouldn't have to adjust shims I would think but I was wanting to put a feeler gauge in like the oem manual states. And oem spec Says. 0 - .004.

So since it was zero I assumed good.

holmesnmanny

With all those parts replaced what makes you think you dont have any negative clearance ?

You should check clearance in all three.

Mista Bone

I go for .004-.006" clearance...

Pullig

So u should def be able to fit a feeler gauge at the diff with shim installed. Ok thanks.

holmesnmanny

While you have it open and pulled it might be best to check the mainshaft, countershaft, and differential clearance. It won't hurt anything.

Mista Bone

Explain how to check counter shaft clearance, Clarence.

Mista Bone

I have .003/.004/.005 shims on the board for the work bench. For the diff I insert the .005" feeler gauge and install three even spaced case bolts around the diff. You should be able to pull it out.

Except the one time I ripped the end off then .003" one....

Pullig

I just don't understand why the diff would be outta spec... I changed diff bearings to the exact same offset bearings..

Its baffling because it goes into every gear nicely it just has a catch every rotation of the drive shaft..

could out of clearance diff bearings cause this? I was thinking maybe the lsd was messed up but I didn't notice anything because I didn't open I guess..

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

In my case the CASE itself was damaged at some point, God only knows when. It's still 100% good to go FWIW.

Mista Bone

You changed the bearings, therefore changing the clearances, therefore MUST check shim clearance.

Pullig

I've ruled the diff out of the equation. Put the stacks both in the case without the diff. It's catching in a certain spot on the rotation of the input shaft.

I came across one of your old post where u said to place mainshaft into the outer case with the shim and flat washer on the end. Did that and measured the air gap clearance had around .009-0.01

Now I did another experiment and removed the angled spring washer reinstalled everything. Of course had a lot of slop with the shaft. But guess what no bind.

I did replace 3rd gear engagement teeth too. So could have changed clearance.