dueces

Hi guys, I am in the middle of my install, and before I do all the finishing things like buttoning up the cooling system and a bunch of minor things, I am trying to get it started. It cranks, has fuel pressure, but I have no spark and I don't think I have fuel either.

I'm running ignition power to the ecu from a switch on the dash (my main ignition power source), and the ecu is getting power(I checked a plug and it has 5v signal from ecu), but I am not getting spark or fuel. I am using a 1998.5 crv wiring harness (obd2b) and I swapped out the internals of the distributor so I could use the stock harness with the vtec disty housing (so it bolts to the b16 head).

Also, I have it grounded on the tranny, the thermostat housing, and also the exhaust manifold straight to the battery negative terminal.

The ecu is a 99-00 si unit, but I have tried the crv ecu as well with the same results.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance guys.

John

tony_2018

Check the distributor for 12v? Tried grounding it at the ecu? You have some custom work on major parts so I suggest you go back and double check to make sure everything is wired properly.

dueces

Sorry guys, I haven't had a chance to check that out yet. A couple nights ago I was talking to a local honda guy and he suggested since I don't have a honda chassis to just go straight obd1. It makes sense so I won't have any jumper harness, and he also has an obd1 disty and alternator for me as well.

Does that seem like the easier route to go?

OneBadTurboCRV

Your "local Honda guy" is your typical Honda dipshit. To convert from OBD-2 to OBD-1 you don't need to change the distributor or the alternator. You are asking for way more headaches for no reason. The only things you need are a jumper harness and an OBD-1 ECU. Unless you were going to start hacking the harness up and swap pins and get all crazy.

There was never a reason for you to swap over the distributor internals either. Not sure where you got that from. From the sounds of your knowledge on all this you are in way over your head on wiring. You need to verify each point is getting proper voltage and go from there. You actually have to check things and report back, we can't do it for you haha. Also, the exhaust manifold is never a good idea for the battery's main ground.

dueces

I had to swap the distributor internals to use the stock plug in for the crv wiring harness. If I didn't do it that way I would have to redo the connector since the harness is non-vtec and the disty I need is vtec.

I haven't had time to look into it more due to more important things coming up.

When I look for info on wiring for this project all I find is the same pictures over and over, nothing stating what sensors/wires should be at what voltage.

I am new to the honda game as far as the swap itself is concerned, and being that the harness that I have available is a 98 crv half year, I have even more questions. The harness that runs to the ecu from the motor only uses connector B and C. Connector A is intertwined with the chassis harness. When I look at the pinout for A it doesn't appear to have anything relevant to the engine as far as actually making the engine run. Is this just a bastard wiring harness?

tony_2018

Your local honda guy is an idiot if he can't tell that the crv chassis almost resembles the ej6/8 chassis. Please confirm all of your wiring, and ecu pinouts for the specific ecu you are using.