cyhm

Does it matter which pin I back probe? Also, in regards to the cel blinking I believe it was because my friend I had pick up the car neglected to remove the jumper wire from the flash code connector.

cyhm

It was hard to get my phone to capture it the way I can see it, but does this look like a leaky capacitor to you guys? Could that be causing these intermittent problems?

cyhm

Ok so I got a better view of the cel today once it stalled out on me again and it turns out that it is a code 15 ignition output signal. Does this mean I should go ahead and replace the distributor? I came across something about a wire bypass. Is this part of the distributor?

Btw, if a mod sees this, I'd appreciate my triple posts merged. I am posting with my phone and it isn't letting me.

Former User

Code 15 - Voltage and Ohm test the distributor wires and test the igniter unit. See service manual.

cyhm

I took the cap off my distributor and it had an awful amount of corrosion inside, so I went ahead and replaced it. This did not solve the problem. It died on me again this morning and is currently not starting and it has no spark. Still throwing code 15.

cyhm

The igniter and ckp are both inside the distributor on a 98 b18b1 correct? I replaced the distributor with no luck fixing the problem. Still intermittent no spark and code 15. What does that leave left to check? The yel/grn (I think?) wire from the dizzy to the ecu and if that's not it the ecu must be bad?

cyhm

OK, so as the title states, my b18b1 swapped ek is throwing a code 15 with no spark. I have already replaced the distributor, but this did not fix the problem. Where do I look from here? I have done some reading, but not found much straight forward info. I believe checking for battery voltage at the black/yellow wire on the distributor connector is one of the steps. Is this done by probing the unplugged connector and body ground with key on or by back probing it? What about the yellow/green wire? I am leaning towards the ecu being bad since I just recently installed a chipped obd1 ecu, dsm injectors, and home made injector clips with the resistors soldered in, but not sure how to narrow it down to that.

Former User

Only one thread is allowed per topic. Please read the forum Rules sticky.

cyhm

Sorry, I updated my OP accordingly. This thread is so botched that I felt the new findings make the first 27 posts irrelevant.

OptimisticWay

Similar problem, maybe your problem?

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=215536

"I switched the harness back to the one from the D16Z6 and that seemed to take care of a few problems.

I think I may have an issue with grounding somewhere because even when the key isn't in the ignition my e-brake light is on as well as my seatbelt light. I read that a short / grounded battery can cause that.

So, I redid the timing, although the rear cam is still off by 1 tooth, so I need to jump that over.

Turned the key, honestly not expecting much after all the other problems, and she starts! Idling around 2800RPM right now, however the alternator isn't connected, there's no coolant, no intake, and header isn't installed, so I'm hoping those account for at least some of the high RPM."

OptimisticWay

Can you give us all the information again please.

Year, model, trim, transmission, engine, ECU, OBD..?

What wiring harness are you using? Jumper harness? Distributor?

Former User

This^

And OP, edit the first post rather than placing the info at the current position in your thread.

cyhm

I believe I already did that, but it is a 98 ex coupe with an ls swap out of a 5spd 98 integra ls. The ecu is a chipped obd1 non vtec with a step down jumper from phearable (presumably a p06 or p75? No code on it so idk). I believe the integra engine harness was used. I bought it swapped.

The distributor is brand new from autozone. I just replaced it

OptimisticWay

The link I provided before

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=215536

Post #4
"You CAN NOT use integra engine harness with a civic. Sorry thats your problem
Integra has 2 piece wiring harness as the civic uses a 1 piece. You need to reuse the civic harness. Wiring is gonna suck but i assure you it can be done"

I would start there.

Also, I have purchased brand new distributors from AutoZone and they have had faulty parts in them. One was for my 88HF. This distributor had a bad crank angle sensor in it, I believe that is what it is called.

So, I would test the distributor to be sure and rule that part out.

cyhm

I could be wrong about the engine harness. I was unaware of that, but it has been driven with the swap for atleast 20 thousand miles without issue and no CELs. It wasn't until a few weeks ago (not sure of mileage but no more than 7 or 800) that the obd1 ecu and supporting fuel components for the turbo setup were installed.

OptimisticWay

Pretty pricey but you can bench test the ECU yourself.

'Honda B Series Engine Simulator/ECU Tester'
https://www.moates.net/honda-b-serie...ter-p-198.html

NerfGunner420

main relay?? doesn't the main relay supply power to the distributor, im tired don't feel like reading the WHOLE DAM THREAD lmao. do you have power at the distributor when it doesn't crank??? have you done the test in the video to even diagnose? i think not. you need to follow that video that was posted to the T!!!!!!!!! if not we won't be able to help you. if you rule out icm and coil then work to the signal like the video says then move to wiring then main relay which leads to the ecu all this info for diagnosing all this can be found if you use GOOGLE!!!!!!!! but im not going to provide the links that you can search for on your own time. ill be honest you are kinda wasting everyone time you keep posting the same thing over and over never did an actual diagnoses when the car didn't start. but now seems like you are getting back on track. please keep it that way.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

These two posts are back to back and a bit confusing.

Did you replace the distributor cap once and the replace the entire distributor after that?





eH.

cyhm

No no. I replaced the entire distributor one time. I meant that I was already contemplating replacing it when I took the cap off the old one, and the amount of corrosion made me decide to just bite the bullet and replace it. I am not entirely displeased with the fact that it didn't fix my problem as I'm surprised it wasn't causing problems already lol.