Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
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Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
I was wondering if anyone has tried the skunk 2 pro series springs-xp specifically the xp (extra pressure. They are rated for 93 lbs at 1.320". I have a h22 and currently have pro series springs that are rated to 80lbs. The reason I want to go with skunk2 is because I already have the bases and retainers from skunk2 and it would be cheaper to just swap out springs instead of having to buy all new ferrea components.
I know the ferrea springs are rated to 100lbs is it that much of a difference 93-100? I have pro1 cams and ferrea 6000 valves. Skunk2 spring bases to run b-series springs and skunk2 retainers.
The setup is a built h22- 740whp and I have to rev it to 9500 due to gearing.
Is it possible to run the ferrea valves and still use my skunk2 bases and retainers?
I know the ferrea springs are rated to 100lbs is it that much of a difference 93-100? I have pro1 cams and ferrea 6000 valves. Skunk2 spring bases to run b-series springs and skunk2 retainers.
The setup is a built h22- 740whp and I have to rev it to 9500 due to gearing.
Is it possible to run the ferrea valves and still use my skunk2 bases and retainers?
#4
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Re: Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
10 lbs of spring pressure can make all the difference in the world. I'm not sure if it is right for you, but I will tell you that we have used a few sets of the new Skunk pro spring and so far so good.
#5
Re: Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
Yeah the pro series springs should be just fine for the Pro1 cams, if you were running an N/A engine with Pro3 and 10,500, you would probably be in the range of needing the XP springs IMO.
And yes the Ferrea valves will be good with Skunk2 bases and retainers. I am running Ferrea comp plus valves with all Skunk2 springs, bases etc, and Honda keepers, and Pro1 cams as well in my H22, and it all plays nice.
And yes the Ferrea valves will be good with Skunk2 bases and retainers. I am running Ferrea comp plus valves with all Skunk2 springs, bases etc, and Honda keepers, and Pro1 cams as well in my H22, and it all plays nice.
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Re: Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
To the experienced guys, do I even need to look at getting the upgraded valve springs. I will be running about 35psi, 9500rpms and about 8xx whp.
Do I need the xp springs or are my pro springs good enough?
Do I need the xp springs or are my pro springs good enough?
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Re: Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
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Re: Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
Yea I did. I had two people say that I didn't need to and 1 that said a extra 10 pounds could make all the difference in the world.and he is a reputable person that builds a LOT of heads. So I would consider his response as valuable as 2 . So the way I look at its tied. So again I'm gonna ask. What's everyone else think?
#9
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At that rpm, I would go with 80lbs. I made the mistake of not checking my builder who did not install the H spring seats for the pro series ultimately give me 50-52lbs of seat pressure spinning 10.5k RPM on Pro3s. Needless to say, after the carnage that occurred (not completely due to valve float IMO) but there was very noticeable markings on the cam lobes which I can only see happening from loosing control of the valve/rocker. The extra 10lbs of pressure with the thicker skunk spring seat could have prevented that.
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Re: Skunk2 pro series valve springs Xp
So for now I am going with the pro springs that I currently have.
I wanted to get some insight from everyone, I checked v2v and p2v clearance and will be making it back to the dyno soon. I need this car to carry the power out as high as possible for my setup to work. The center lines came out to +1.5 and +1.5 with tuner gears. So 3 degrees each. I could go with a maximum of 5 degrees of seperation from ex to in to still have .040 v2v clearance. To minimize time on dyno. What's some pointers you could offer?
I wanted to get some insight from everyone, I checked v2v and p2v clearance and will be making it back to the dyno soon. I need this car to carry the power out as high as possible for my setup to work. The center lines came out to +1.5 and +1.5 with tuner gears. So 3 degrees each. I could go with a maximum of 5 degrees of seperation from ex to in to still have .040 v2v clearance. To minimize time on dyno. What's some pointers you could offer?
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