OneBadTurboCRV

I may have one side still from an old build I'd let go for the cost of shipping and gas. If you are interested then PM me, if not then good luck.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the reply I found some this morning.

ls joker

**** my life. nothing but hard parkers around here. i finally get a group of serious drivers together for a caravan, and now my front swaybar ripped off the subframe. since my cars bout two inches off the ground, it catches everything. no shop sells the bracket. nobody has a bushing/ bracket kit. honda wont have it til tuesday.

may seem minor to some, but i need my car in top shape always

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

Just remove your sway bar till you get the part in

ls joker

then the car is all over the road. and possible wheel hop can lead to further damage.

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

I didn't mean as a permanent fix, just so you have something to get around with

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Quick question guys.


I have a 93 Honda Civic non-VTECH and I want to put a turbo on it. I went to a tuner shop and they suggested I get a top mount turbo kit because I want to keep my air conditioning and everything in place. So in preparation for the top mount turbo, I went to the Subaru dealer and bought a top mount intercooler for a 2005 WRX STI because I was told it was a good/cheap intercooler (this thing was EXPENSIVE btw).

What I want to know is how to I hook this up? I want to put it on ahead of time so that when I take the car to the s hop to have the turbo installed it'll all be ready to go.

m4xwellmurd3r

A top mount intercooler? Why? Subaru intercoolers iirc have a flange that bolts up directly to the intake. Without hacking it apart im almost positive you wont be able to use it as a front mount.

Theyre tiny too

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

Why did they recommend a top mount for retention of ac? What's wrong with a log or mini ram? Who was this tuner?
No idea how you plan on hooking up the Subaru intercooler, are you going to run the y pipe that connects to both inlet holes? Seems as though you're a little lost here. First things first stop buying stuff and look at the other builds on here, not trying to be an a$$hole BTW just trying to save you some money

ls joker

went out to chill for the night. not me in pic[URL=http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/lsjoker/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140420_243941181_zpsbdvarxbr.jpg.html][/URL

turbomaniac

no need for top mount intercooler to keep the A/C....

Natural Aspirations

I'm thinking that is a troll post.....

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

look at all the brew


seems legit

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

sadly most do run turbos that are way too big for their goals... most of them do it because they think a big turbo looks cool and gives them street cred... I'm a big believer in sizing a turbo that is the most efficient for a given power goal and I always try to run the smallest turbo to achieve what I want, especially since I'm a big fan of highly responsive motors. I too was initially going with a gt2860r until my friend literally gave me the gt2871r off of his sr20 for free lol. I still might build a straight ls with stock internals and a badass head and run my 2860r in some chassis or maybe I'll put the 2860r or the 2871r (if I go with a gtx3076r or similar turbo in the future) on the f20b I plan on putting in the accord later this year.

that sounds like a good idea for the LEDs. making the back half reflective and then frosting the front not only increases light output but also evens it out giving it that nice glow.

what most people have issues with is that the LEDs need a dual voltage circuit... lower voltage for running lights to dim the LEDs and then a high voltage (no more than 3-5vdc) for the bright side.

some LEDs are actually dual color... like red and amber so you can have the turnsignal integrated into the brake lights.. actually looks really cool and a lot of guys build a simple controller to make the turn signal move in the direction it indicates like the mustang turnsignals.

it's much easier to do this with lights that have flat lenses, as making a diy flexible PCB is a bitch. however your Plexi/lexan idea would be perfect for curved lenses... get a thin enough sheet of plexi and heat it enough to soften it then put it over a form in the shape of the lens or use the lens itself to make the contour.

the only real issue with the plexi is running the traces for each led. you'd basically have to run small sections of wire to each one which would be very tedious and time consuming.

I've been trying to find an affordable supplier who could make flexible PCBs. if I could order enough to get the cost down I could make multiple sets of led tails and sell them.

one interesting thing is that people who make PCBs to convert a standard filament based light to led have to tweak the lens a little bit. on a filament based light the lens has a lot of angles and different thicknesses to get the light distribution correct. with an led this can cause uneven lighting or distortion. what people have done is make the interior of the lens opaque by spraying it with some form of frosting or opaque clear.

they also remove any extra lens pieces and some even smooth the interior out and polish it to clear it up. some have even made new clear lense out of lexan or Plexiglas. if you can coat the PCBs with a dark color to hide them it looks really good, some also smoke or tint them red. the smoke looks much better with LEDs as the red tint just messes with the color the LEDs produce.

I'm still trying to find that thread on the s13 coupe tails. this guy did an epic job of documenting the conversion and showed every step from making the PCBs to how to wire each led in series, how many LEDs can be on one circuit/resistor on the board (you can't just link them all together on one circuit), where resistors need to go and how to calculate the required number and resistance, as well as how to get the dual voltage circuit right for dim and bright... he also showed how you can adjust how dim or bright they are by controlling the voltage and current. he also showed how to do the sweeping mustang turn signal and build an adjustable resistance turn signal controller so you can make them flash at a reasonable rate since the reduced resistance from the LEDs causes the stock controller to have a seizure lol.


sidenote, we got the new carbon ceramic brakes on the front and rear of the z06 last night... look so sexy and hopefully it eliminates our braking issues. the Brembo GTs we took off look so small next to the carbon ceramic brakes lol. the Brembo front rotors are like 14.25" and the carbon are 15.5" and 1.5" thick... and only weigh 12lbs. what's funny is the cc rears weigh more than the Brembo ones. this is because the rear ebrake is a drum type and the Brembo hat was aluminum where as the carbon rear hat is stainless steel. fronts are aluminum though.

they get bedded in today which is a bitch.. you have to do 40-60 stops in a row to get the pads and rotors hot enough to start smoking because you have to outgas the pads and rotors.

I also took a lot of pics at the track of the z06 and the various cars we filmed and filmed with, the z06 ended up being the main vehicle we filmed from as it was already setup for multiple gopros in numerous spots. I also took some shots last night from doing the brakes and going over the car so I'll get them uploaded today.

m4xwellmurd3r

Clayed my engine. +5 intake and -5 exhaust and they still didnt touch the clay. Im not suprised with how big the valve pockets are in my pistons.

I also noticed some keepers are sunk into the retainers more than others. Could be installation error related since I did it in a hurry last year. Should I be worried?
Theyre rocket motorsports snap fit titanium retainers and springs, stock keepers

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Did you mean to post the same picture twice? Those keepers look normal...

edit: Ah, there ya go. I just checked my keepers for comparison, and they all sit flush - none are sunk in like that one is. Maybe a manufacturing defect?

Natural Aspirations

It's possible you have a warn out keeper or retainer. I recommend contacting Rocket for his advise.

m4xwellmurd3r

Yeah it could be a worn out keeper or retainer. I need a new valve spring compressor so when I do ill check and see of swapping keepers changes anything.

These retainers should only have about 6k or so miles on them

I feel a little dumb, whats his username to get in touch with him?


It should also be noted that I did put about 3k on this head without any issues. Iirc the keepers were like that when I installed them, and they are old *** stock keepers. They could be beat to hell.

Im not running the head again till I have money and parts to rebuild it, so if need be ill get new keepers and or retainers.

Natural Aspirations

You can contact him direct @ RocketMartin@yahoo.com

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I think rockets quality has gone up greatly in the last few years. we had an early set of their dual springs and titanium retainers on an all motor high compression b16 and during break in on the dyno 3 springs broke in half and 2 retainers cracked in half.

was definitely interesting to see the carnage. I think we were a rare exception with a defective set from the mfg, I haven't really heard of any failures with their products, at least not the one we had. so I wouldn't think it's the retainers.

I would recommend a set of ferrea retainers. I wouldn't really trust a larger, heavier valvetrain and upgraded cams along with stiffer springs to unknown age/mileage oem keepers.

a few have had supertech retainers fail but we don't know the exact reasons for said failures... I've never really of heard of ferrea having issues and their products and customer service are amazing

just my opinion

m4xwellmurd3r

I guess ill get new keepers too then. The rocket retainers are in nice shape. Theyre the newer version that have a nice snap fit between the springs so the springs dont wear out the titanium prematurely.

Regardless I think I should replace them with steel retainers for longevity purposes.

Side note, I got the stock head installed. I think it was rebuilt recently. Its got a lot of varnish from running, but the keepers and retainers look brand spankin new. Nice sharp edges, no scratches or marks from being worked on. All the retainers have a black mark like a sharpie, but it doesnt rub off. Im wondering if that has anything to do with someone marking them as they installed em or some manufacturing thing.


Also, about the led thing. I was planning on alternating cicuits. One set would be running lights, the other set would be brake lights. That way I could make the light output real bright during braking. Your idea with heating the acrylic to the shape of the lense is exactly how I wanted to do it. I was planning on using standard leds, string em up, then find out what resistors to make them run on 14v without cooming em.

m4xwellmurd3r

Also, I think small turbos have more street cred. When someone says they make 400hp and have some big oversized unit I just think "why arent you making more with that huge snail" vs someone with some tiny turbo making 400hp, you know they got that turbo pissing efficiency out like gold.
And it's probably quicker than a big turbo making 400hp

This is where im at after today. Now its just about time to prep it to go in the car.

turbomaniac

IMO turbo size must be relevant to the use of the car

if target is a track car or there are limitations to max power (ie stock internals, mentality of the driver) the turbo must have power from 3000rpm to rev limiter

if target is street racing, turbo must have power at mid and high rpms (max acceleration rpms, usally from 4000 rpm to rev limiter)

i see no point at having boost at 1500-2000 rpm, if somone wants power so low he sould buy a diesel engine

i see very often people that at the beggining have limited power expectations and in the end they forced to replace their turbochargers with sg bigger.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

For all the people living in states with higher elevation how much harder is it to make power?

I might be moving to denver in a couple months and just wondering how much this elevation is going to kick my ***.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Ugh, I'm getting dangerously close to pushing my car off a cliff. Got under the car to look at my brakes, come to find out one of my CV boots is shredded, and one of my front torque mounts had sheared off. Now I'm stuck with brakes that still don't properly work, AND I now know of other problems. **** yeah, great day off work

On the plus side, both of those issues are fixed by completing my swap...still leaves me completely confused about my damn breaks, though