PassDaBrewBro

While driving car shut off and after turning the key over after a while fuel started pour out of everywhere (cat convertor/throttle body). Starter wouldn't give after a while I guess due to hydrolock. Took the spark plugs out and tried to get the fuel out with rags in each spark plug hole but it would shoot all over when turning the key. Checked the timing. On point. Distributor isn't sending out spark. Any ideas?

Engine is stock. Tried another distributor from a b-series vtec engine I have. Still no spark.

fcm

Do you have power to the distributor assembly when key is in both the run and start positions?

Do you have power on both IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM hen ign. is in run and start?

Test both the ICM and the coil.

If no or erratic movement of tach when cranking to start, it will be the ICM.

Also make sure all connections to coil and ICM are good and tight. 94

PassDaBrewBro

I had a friend stop by and let me try his distributor off his running LS. No spark. With strong compression and no spark could it possibly be the CrankShaft Position Sensor?!?

fcm

OK, I will ask again...

Do you have power to the distributor assembly when key is in both the run and start positions?

Do you have power on both IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM when ign. is in run and start?


Using a known working distributor assembly pretty much eliminates coil, ICM and CKP, [crankshaft position sensor] and the distributor itself as the problem.

Not to be confused with the CKF, [crankshaft fluctuation sensor, often called the crankshaft position sensor] that can be the problem, mostly be cause of wiring, the most common problem with the CKF is the wires get "rubbed" through by the alt. belt because the leads are not "clipped" into place.

Have you looked to see if the leads are damaged or if the sensor is just unplugged? 94

PassDaBrewBro

checked connector A pin's 11 and 24 which is IGP1 and IGP2 if i'm not mistaken. Both are getting power.

Changed the CKP. still nothing
the ICM is getting power.

fcm

Test the coil and ICM. 94

PassDaBrewBro

Here's what I came up with
Primary .7 ohms
Secondary 16.85k

PassDaBrewBro

Put clamp of test light on positive battery post and had the test light end on negative of the ignition coil. Test light was lit up til engine was cranking. No blinking light.

existanzcivicb20

Please DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER while there is fuel everywhere!!!!

PassDaBrewBro

disconnected the injectors plugs. Just looking for spark.

fcm

Coil is within speck, test ICM. 94

VegasInvasion

Didn't see anyone suggest plug wires yet. Clean your wires off, check for signs of arcing. test resistance from end to end, should be 10kohm per foot. Anything less, replace it.

If not, it's most likely your ICM as fcm stated.

If crank sensor(s) were the culprit, it would have thrown a code before you could flood the engine trying to turn it over that long. The CKF code wouldn't stop spark anyway.

PassDaBrewBro

I used a friends chipped ecu with his step down and the engine ran after turning it over for a while. Idk why or how my stock p75 could've went bad on a warm day while driving.

VegasInvasion

any one of the electrolytic capacitors can randomly fail, especially in the heat. they're filled with liquid that deteriorates over time, typical half life is about 20 years. that's why we replace them when we chip an ecu.