bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

well.. thought i had found myself a good motor finally and turns out its got low compression on cyl#2 and smokes after warm up.
so since theres literally 0 h series motors left within 100 miles i have no choice but to switch to a 2.2 sohc non-vtec.

the motor is coming from a 92 honda accord.

is there anything that i need to keep from the h23?
same flex plate? fuel rail and such the same?
how about the dizzy? can i stick with my h23 dizzy?
my ecu is a p14 do i need to change it?

AudioFunk

I think you need to run a P12 ECU

Sparksman

You can put a h22a head on a h23a, and a f 22/23 block. So you could stay dohc if you wanted, or find a vtec head for the new block.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

well i paid $600 for the h23a1 in now from one of the best junkyards within a 75 mile radius, i've got 23-25 days left to return it if need be.
unfortunately like a big dummy i sold the original motor $500 (spun bearing, new crank kit then blew hg on cyl#3) which had an excellent and SOLID head on it.

so if i bring this motor back theres no way of keeping the head.


only things ill have are my original harness, flex plate, dizzy, p/s pump, coil, and a p14 ecu
only other ecu i have access to (if its not gone already) is one from a h22a vtec 93 prelude.

so its figure out exactly whats up with this motor, or go swap it for a 92 accord sohc 2.2 and its $100 less. maybe more if i can talk him down depending on internal shape.



as it sits right now, it fires right up but seems to have a slight hesitation, idle fluctuates cold 1800RPM, after 2min 1500rpm, after 5min 1100rpm, from there on it bounces from 1000-1200rpm.

upon startup it has no smoke period, after 2-3mins slight black smoke, then after 5-10mins its a light white smoke.

pretty sure i bled the coolant system correctly..

basically i bought it for a project, got the original motor running drove it around the block a few times, confirmed only 80psi on cyl #3 so i pulled it and put this one in, i havent been able to do a compression test on this one yet.

so i have no clue if my temp gauge works correctly.
after 20mins of running in a 78-80* weather in the south (so hotish) it never breached past 1/2 mark (normal im guessing) but my fan never kicked on and both radiator hoses were pretty darn hot. kinda scared to run it past that as if it does run hot it'll crack the warranty seals the yard placed on the motor.
i know in my 94 lude i had 3 years ago it always stayed at the 1/4 mark and fans only took a mere 5-6mins to cut on.

i jumped the fan switch at the t-stat housing and fan kicks on just fine...

no longer have any CEL's (had one but found i didnt plug up the o2)
only the abs light comes on after driving it around the block.

Sparksman

Werent you telling me you could have a jdm engine shipped to your house for under $1k? Why not return the engine for the $600 bucks, save a couple hundred bucks and get a legit fresh jdm engine with 45k or less.

That way you dont have to mess around with local mechanic special mystery swaps.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

with my habbits and side projects(atv's) i wont be having to much extra for a while, im just trying to make this into a cheap daily for my road trips.
but i found a nice little 92 accord with a f22a1, 132k totaled in the rear but still runs and drives straight. figure if i can drive it home pull it all out scrap the body($150-200) itll keep some cash in my pocket.

i dont want to really dump money into it, basically like i said, i paid $600 for the car delivered to my house 87mi one way. put a crank kit from a f22a1 in it, found it also burnt cyl#3, turned around and sold it for $500, now im $100 into the car.. this motor i paid $600 for but just pretty iffy on it and really rather not chance it and let warranty run out.. so return it get that $600 back, drive 15mi more pickup the accord for $500 and drive home if i dont trailer it..
so basically i'd be back to the original $600 i had into it.

the body's not perfect small dings and one flattened spot on rear pass wheel well to the door sill.

gotta change the windshield so thats another $175 unless i can find a window guy that'll pull it from the 93 in the yard.

but trust me sparksman, i was looking at tiger earlier and seen a f20b vtec and f22b vtec for 500+$265 shipping.. i so want it just hate the wait..

but there is someone with a low mileage h23a1 head complete, and a low mileage rotating assembly (Crank,rods,pistons,girdle) that i could score for $190 but seems like just trying to find a really good block itself is hard.. i'd love to do a g23 swap though as it would leave me with some change and i like that i could get a block guard for future probabilities :p

decisions decisions decisions this is why im here to figure it out..

still have to do the body work and paint it after all this, currently black but i'm gonna add in some black/gold flake and clean up my wheels.

Sparksman

Who gives a crap how it looks if it wont pull out the driveway... Id worry about making it drive and be reliable before anything else. Just order a new engine and call it a day.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

ok quick question fellas, can i use a 91 accord ecu in my prelude if im putting in the sohc? or will i meed to find a different sohc a/t ecu?
i know it wont run worth a crap if i stick with my p14 ecu right?

Sparksman

Im pretty sure the auto trans ECU and the Engine ECU need to be from the same car to work together properly.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

i figured as much, ill have to find me a sohc a/t ecu from a prelude then. busy week ahead of me! De-greasing and pressure washing the engine bay tomorrow morning, pulling my accord apart, light wire tuck then paint, clean trans good and replace seals and paint. pull motor from accord clean it up a bit paint it before dropping in the prelude..
ill try to take some pics as i go along.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

ok so i got the motor pulled today and started removing the harness and getting trans ready to disconnect.

so the harness' are different.
oil pressure switch is where the knock sensor should be, and theres a plug where the oil switch should be.

my question is, if i get a p12 ecu for the f22a1 prelude, would it have a knock sensor or not? im just trying to make sure i dont get the parts swap them in and change ecu only to find out i didnt need to switch those parts out..

so you prelude S guys, do you have a knock sensor?

Sparksman

F22's do not have knock sensors as far as I know, but the Obd2 F23 has one, and im pretty sure the F20B does as well.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

so should i leave it as it is without the knock sensor or do i need to get a knock sensor and swap the oil switch? i'm buying the p12 ecu today

Sparksman

The P12 is a F22a1 ecu from a prelude S. It doesnt need a knock sensor to work properly, because they never came with them. Even if you went through the hassle of installing one the ECU wont register it. If you are reusing your H23a1 harness you just dont use that plug, tape it off to stay clean.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

ok im so fed up with this dang thing..
so i went and got me the ps/alt/ac brackets from a h23a1, turns out the p/s pump just aint gonna fit period..

so using the h23a1 ps bracket and alt bracket while it took some trimming i got them to bolt to the block/head but now with the alt installed theres no where near enough room to mount the p/s pump as its hitting against the alt and bracket.

if i use the f22 ps bracket and pump it sits way to high and i'd need to get the p/s hose customized to fit the f22 pump.

so wth do i do?.. i've literally trimmed all that i can without compromising strength and mounting. cant shave the pump, cant shave the alt or bracket either.. so wth is going on here...