[ej]Jonathan

but why a d-series?

Bubba Zanetti

Yes, it sucks entirely

Bubba Zanetti

I have to remove engine, to dismantle everything, and to check everything - one rod overheated, that's for sure.

Hm, I am still really puzzled as I don't have even the slightiest idea why this happened ...obviously it was lubrication system failure, for some reason.

I know that I experimented with crankshaft maybe too much, as I micropolished it & then nitrided it, but again , I did that extremely carefully,
as I checked each clearance on both main & rod end bearings dozen times, removed all crank plugs, cleaned all passages, put new crank plugs and tack welded them just to be sure...so crankshaft cleanliness & bearing clearances couldn't be the reason.

When that happened , oil level was OK, coolant temperature also, RPM's were around 6-7 krpm.

beeza

I feel for ya Bubba.So the car was going? How did it drive etc etc etc (been waitin' a while...)

Why not? lol

Bubba Zanetti

Hm, first I have to tell that I was driving my car N/A, but with supercharger installed and blowing in free air - aka not boosting at all, just whining annoyingly in the 300m radius

And driving this car N/A was pretty much like on/off switch - on lower RPM's car was totally anemic due various things - low CR, extremely short runners & big plenum on intake manifold, and of course due Zex 59500 grind...hm car felt totally flat on lower RPM's,in any gear and it certainly feel like it had much lower torque than old D15B7...similar like some small turbodiesel car, but without turbo

On the other hand, if I went full throttle on long, long stretch of road , wait quite some time to get VTEC activated (cca around 4500 RPM), engine really transformed completely, it really, really loved 5krpm + range... of course,it loved it untill rod end bearings failure...

My biggest problem now is that this car is my daily driver and I have to find quick solution to get car driveable ASAP...if I decide to rebuild this engine, I had to dismantle and clean everything , to check & measure everything , and to order new rods , and maybe some other things - due my lack of spare time , it can prolong for few months, probably next year.

Other idea is to quickly rebuild my old D15B7 engine - just to refresh it with new gasket set, resurface head, and change whatever is necessary and install it in car, without to much complications...but again, who knows, maybe I will also swap my complete M62 custom kit on D15B7 , on low boost, just for fun , untill I finish rebuilding of my other engine

beeza

Hmmm,bit of a dilema mate.

Stay positive mate.

Damn shame that happened.

It sounds like it was nice to drive though...

mikesanto70

oh man all that work for nothing, I thought i read in the beginning you had a pretty stout built block!!!! what happened!!

elsicario12

First time i see a superchager on a D motor, nice build!!!

civicEx_in_Utah

so here we are a year latter...what have you been able to accomplish?
i have found your thread invaluable as i am in the process of retiring my 95 mazda millenia S ( it has the S/C millercycle motor) any way i pulled the s/c and the inter coolers and the insane intake manifold it has routing to each of its inter-coolers. and started mocking up my designs for my intake manifold just last month. it's new home will be my 97 civic d16y8. my largest concern has not been the build directly but the weight of the s/c & intake assembly and if the intake manifold bolts will be strong enough to hold the extra weight. i haven't weighed it to know it exactly but i would guess it weighs closer to 20 lbs. did you even worry about this and did you ever weigh your setup before you installed it?

Bubba Zanetti

Regarding my setup:

I have accomplished most important thing - and that's designing custom intercooled supercharged M62 cog drive setup and installing it on D16 block, and doing it parellel with my daily, extremely hectic, job :-)

Btw, I dismantled my new engine after failure - and I'm still puzzled because fact that I lost rod end bearing(s) during breaking-in of my freshly built engine is bad , but far worse then that is another fact: I still don't know why-tolerances were checked, all bolt torque values were OK, all oil passages were perfectly cleaned, oil level was OK, etc...everything was OK, but rod end bearings (especially No. 4 which desintegrated completely) gone bad from some reason.

Regarding weight of my complete intake manifold/M62 supercharger assembly: total combined weight is cca 40 lbs - not too light, but again with additional two strong mounts that I attached under intake manifold and connected them to engine block it is not a big problem - with additional mounts you relieve most of the stress from M8 intake manifold bolts , mounts take the weight, and M8 bolts just connect intake flange to the head.

bgdriver

Detonation hammering down on top of the rod bearing could cause failure especially if the mains are still fine.

Bubba Zanetti

Yes, I agree with you completely ... if I was driving on boost that day.

... but I doubt that in my case detonation was the cause, as I was driving without any boost, on normal D16Z6 ignition map, with cca 8.8 CR, on 95 octane fuel.

Fuel map used was stock D16Z6 and though I was affraid going lean as I had Stage 3 cam, untill 6k RPM (where it was my temporary rev limit) my cam should perform pretty much the same as stock, because powerband for 59500 is between 6500-8000...and looking at the chambers, exhaust ports and spark plugs, it seems I was in fact on a rich side...so fueling was probably also OK.

civicEx_in_Utah

where id you tie in to the block for your additional mounts? i must have missed that in your wright up

tenedor sports

iTrader: (1)

gooooddddamn this **** is nuts!!! love it!

Bubba Zanetti

Here are the pictures that will probably explain everything:

Aluminum supports before welding to the intake manifold:



Side view of supports:



Supports welded and fixed to the block:



And some additional pictures during machining & after mounting in engine bay:














To reduce flexing of the 10mm alu tensioner plate, I add two bars with 6mm rod ends so I can precisely adjust & fix plate to the head & supercharger:

Sammie.07

Wow that looks great, I am doing a similar build. Good luck!

2slowGs-R

REAL NICE!

TougeEM1

Cool project!

beeza

Giddy up!

Vids please

Would love to hear the sound

Bubba Zanetti

Finaly!!!!

Thanks to help of my friends, I finished completely my new belt drive for my D15B7 engine - check latest video & pics:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...M62_idling.mp4












This engine will serve for now as temporary "test platform" for my custom M62 supercharger kit, and hopefully, as reliable daily-driver, at least while I finish new rebuild of my forged D16 mini-me engine after rod bearing failure.

I'm really satisfied with my new serpentine twin belt drive, as it works flawlessly for now.

I'm using this car for going to work & back last few days, and I notice immediately that it is very quiet when compared with previous toothed belt drive, as old belt drive had one very small tensioner that was spinning between 20-30krpm, and made crazy , high-pitched, winning sound even on idling speed

All clearances between each belt and chassis, and between tensioners looks OK, no critical points.

In next few days, hopefully I'll finish piping connection between TB and supercharger outlet, together with installation of large BOV that will serve as by-pass valve.

For this purpose I will use 60mm 304SS elbows with some straight sections - such elbows I should weld easily with my stick welding machine:









As I already stepped down supercharger RPM's using intermediate pulleys with my belt drive system, I'm expecting to get relatively low (safe) boost, in order not to overstress my std D15B7 engine, we'll see :-)

Bubba Zanetti

Some new updates:

Two weeks ago, I somehow found some spare time, and with the help of my friends, I finally welded 2.5" stainless steel piping between supercharger & throttle body.

For releasing eventual pressure build-up in front of closed throttle plate (as this is blow-through configuration), I welded V-band connection for 40 mm BOV.

As std BOV spring was far too stiff, I replaced it with much, much softer spring - idea is that on idling, vacuum pulled from IM plenum should pull BOV membrane & piston without problems, thus immediately releasing flow of air to atmosphere coming from the M62 outlet.

And hopefully, BOV will start closing automatically when I press throttle, as force from the top side of the membrane (boost + spring rate, on relatively large membrane area) was higher then on the piston side (only boost, with smaller piston surface) enough to keep it completely closed.

When all stainless steel piping & silicone coupler were in place, I uploaded different fuel / ignition map to Hondata S300 - it was map from dyno'ed Honda D16 JRSC , ignition tables seemed conservative (reasonable) enough, so I just rescaled it for smaller injectors.

I really didn't know what boost I can expect - to play safe with this std engine, I reduced supercharger RPM's with my intermediate pulley to have cca 9500 RPM @ 6k engine RPM, this should produce boost under 0.5 bar according to my calculations.

I turned on Hondata boost cut on 0.5 bar just as extra precaution.

For fuelling I still left stock 240cc injectors because of two reasons:

1. as this is almost stock, high millage D15B7 engine for temporary daily driving purposes and low boost, I needed injectors for cca 150 HP.

2. second reason - one of my 440cc injectors is completely blocked unfortunately and it couldn't be cleaned at all :-(

Engine fired immediately with new map, idling nicely on 900-1000 RPM , with supercharger blowing nice amount of air from large BOV openings as it is compeletely open on idle - so this is great, I was lucky, as it seems that I found good spring rate for BOV-

When I pressed throttle couple of times quickly, BOV started to close, which is also great, and it is according to my expectations.

Throttle response was obviously much better, then without supercharger.

Sound is according to my taste : from idle untill 2krpm almost as std engine, then blower whine start to be noticable, and it is increasing all the way to redline

I've made couple of short runs with Hondata datalogging function turned on, just to check basic engine parameters: boost is very low, and never goes over 0.2 bar, which is of course far from producing neck-breaking accelerations, but should be just fine for daily driving & first tests, untill I prepare everything for "normal", healthy boost injection: install FMIC, install 440cc injectors, put larger exhaust, wideband datalogging, etc.

Boost starts on low RPMs, even with relatively low supercharger speed: from 1700-1800 RPM, pressure starts to be positive, full boost is already at 2500 RPM, and this boost is at almost same level to 6 kRPM and then fall slightly.

Even this slight increase in torque really changed this little engine, improvement seems biggest around 3kRPM+ range but I still notice hesitation under 2kRPM - it could be caused by too conservative timing on low load/low rpm cells combined with overly rich mixture, engine feels really flat there, with loussy response and it takes quite a long time for increase in RPMs if I suddenly pressed full throttle while I am cruising in lower RPM range...

Hm, maybe the problem could be also caused by D16A6 camshaft, which, (depending on the exact Model/Year of the donor engine) needed slight readjustment of timing when installed in D15B7 engine with some cam gears (D16Y8 if I am correct).
I need to check more details about that, but I just didn't have enough time lately.

When on boost coolant temperature seemed also OK, maybe few degrees higher then usual, but it could be caused by std restrictive exhaust.

Air temperature in plenum was also maybe slightly higher then expected, but this could be easilly caused by stupid temporary position of air intake filter that is very near dizzy, sucking nice warm air from radiator fan :-)

Even without datalog, according to large amount of black clouds and from coughing of the drivers behind, fuel map seems way on the rich (safe) side. :-)

On lift off, BOV blows nice amount of air, and I think it would be interesting to measure pressure difference before & after the throttle in various conditions.

What is interesting, BOV is producing all kind of crazy sounds, depending on the exact position and pressing speed of the throttle, which in combination with direct air filter on unrestricted blower inlet sounds interesting

Here are few pics:

sql_civic

iTrader: (3)

I get about 23psi on my D16 M65 setup so you should be in that range I would guess.

Bubba Zanetti

Hm, 23 psi - do you remember what intake temperatures were you getting at those boost levels?

Do you have maybe screenshots of your ignition & fuel tables , or even some datalogs from this engine?

Bubba Zanetti

Here is short video clip when engine was first time started with supercharger outlet connected to throttle body - BOV was installed also, with softest spring to immediately vent air from supercharger outlet, preventing boost spike before throttle:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...irst_boost.mp4

v8eatrr

Looks good but why did you choose to not get a vtec head for this build?
Just curious