MisterZJ

I have a question that I would appreciate all the knowledable honda inthusiasts to answer. I have a 1998 Honda Civic EX AUTO. I have recently added a garrett T3 turbo to it. Now, i've heard from many places that all the civics were built the same, regardless of manual or auto (i.e. hole in the firewall for the clutch, etc..) I was just wondering if anyone had ever done this, as I REALLY REALLY want a manual transmission in my car. I am curently watching a MANUAL TRANNY on ebay right now for like 200 bucks, and after I got that, if its even possible, the only other things I would need are the clutch system (as in pedal, master and slave cylinders, etc..) Someone please respond a.s.a.p. as the auction is over in a little while and don't want to bid if the swap is impossible. Thanks!

l2p

Yes, it can be done. You need everything off a manual car.(pedals,clutch master,clutch line, tranny, shift linkage) You are going to need to remove the mount(tranny side) and move it up a little.

Carnut

not ot hi jack your thread but no one can answer my wuestoin in the eg forum........when installing the cluthc pedal and using the manual ECU you have to have a clutch pedal switch, wehre is the connector for this??? is it in the wiring harness soemwhere or do i have to add such wires???

this is a 94 civic with a d16..thanx

doublejz

screw the clutch pedal switch all you need to to is cut the harness where the automatic shifter plugged in, and splice both of the 2 big black wires together. Your clutch pedal switch just got bypassed. Only problem is that you can start your car when it is in gear. Be careful. I just did the auto to man swap, not hard at all.

Oh yea, you will need to get a new passenger side tranny mount. The stock one wont fit. JDMshit.com sells them or talk to newman on here.

doublejz

Auto To manual :
Wiring: On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly, and leave about 5 inches of wire.
Looking at the plug, the positions are (left to right) (top row) 8 (unused and blank from factory),9,10,11,12,13,14 and (bottom row) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7. Starter (top) Sensor: There are two heavy gauge wires (position #10 and position #11). Connect these two wires to the top sensor (clutch interlock switch) on the clutch pedal assembly. This will only allow the car to start when the clutch pedal is engaged. In other words, everytime you press the clutch you will close the circuit.
Its the huge plug under your shifter. Splice the 2 biggets black wires and you will have already bypassed your clutch switch .

Cruise Control (bottom) Sensor: The bottom switch is your cruise control disable switch. Run two wires from the switch: connect one to the position #1 (black) and the other to #9 (pink). Everytime you press the clutch pedal, the cruise controll will disable.

Reverse Lights: Look at the plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission. Run two wires from this switch to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe (positions 3 and 4) at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work.

If you have any problems/questions PM me

Carnut

thank you very much

MisterZJ

I appreciate all the feedback. Ok, if someone could do me a HUGE favor and straight up LIST all the components necessary to complete the swap (i.e. CLUTCH PEDAL, MASTER AND SLAVE CYLINDERS, LINES, ECU?) I would GREATLY appreciate it. Thanks again!

doublejz

clutch and brake pedal assembly (or just cut your brake pedal) master cylinder, piping from master cylinder to slave cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch kit, brake fluid, linkage, a split/roll pin from linakge to tranny, wires (to run new wires from tranny to where the auto shifter plugged into the wire harness for reverse lights), boot for center console, and thats about it, your gonna have to drill two holes behind the hole where the auto shifter sat, to bolt you 5 spd shifter in.

JDMHONDAHB

whats the diffrence between to automatic trans mount and the standard tranny mount? can i use a stock 5speed transmission mount? is there any welding needed?

RCautoworks

Just posted all this last week for a guy that is doing it in a 1990 honda, I have done many before so if you need any help feel free to IM me.

Stuff you will need

Manual trans
Manual flywheel
Manual flywheel bolts
Manual Ecu
Shift linkage
Shifter
Pedals

Side trans mount and rear trans mount from a manual, the pedals will probably be the hardest part. Here is some more wiring to help you out.

Installing the pedals (have fun):



This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.



Removal of the transmission:



To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel (make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts).



Installing shift linkage



This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be. Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.





Installing the transmission:



Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in.



Wiring with diagrams:



Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below



I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work.



This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch.

redsikiller

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw the clutch pedal switch all you need to to is cut the harness where the automatic shifter plugged in, and splice both of the 2 big black wires together. Your clutch pedal switch just got bypassed. Only problem is that you can start your car when it is in gear. Be careful. I just did the auto to man swap, not hard at all.

Oh yea, you will need to get a new passenger side tranny mount. The stock one wont fit. JDMshit.com sells them or talk to newman on here.</TD></TR></TABLE>this is for 92-95 civics, right?

haveaniceday

holy crap 2 years later

redsikiller

it's the only thing you find in aa search that doesn't have most of the same redundant b.s. like "what parts do i need"

drugyungrage1986

Hey wuz up dude how's it going. For wireing the reverse light's, your talking about the sensor plug that has two wires coming out of it in front of the tranny right. If so when wired up, do you need somebody their to tell you when the lights are on. And also do reverse lights come on only when the car is on. Or lets say if i were to put the shifter in reverse whit the car off will the reverse lights come on.

93supercoupe

another 2 years later, this is sweet

the onriginal car in this thread was like brand new when this thing was made, now its probably in a bone yard witha half done conversion

94_T3G

cant wait until 2009 when i see this thread again.

Boosted_B_Series

I had to do it..